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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Brian.......Snowshed - tomorrow ***
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Cutty Sark is the name of the route (ice route/rock route) in the two pictures above.
That matches up with what the folks at Sunny Falls told us. I noted that Carville's guide mentioned an ice climb named Cutty Sark over by the Echo Lakes, but I guess this is either more evidence that Carville's guide isn't that good ... or there are just two ice climbs named Cutty Sark in the south lake tahoe area :)
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UncleDoug
Social climber
N. lake Tahoe
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Brian,
Thanks for the post on this.
I knew that these were not new routes but was not sure of the names.
In all reality there is not much new in Tahoe. You can hike of "into the wilderness" and find chains dangling where you thought no one has been before.
Tahoe is no climbing mecca on the scale of the valley, but there is one heck of allot of history as far as climbing goes in the region.
I hope it does not get lost by people finding "new" routes and claiming them as their own. It would be similar to me going to the valley, running up the Salthe and stating "I did the great new route. One heck of an FA!"
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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I'm still having a difficult time matching the photos of the ice routes to the first photo in this thread that Chris posted. They look much different. However, I'm happy to accept the fact that they've been climbed before if that's the consensus. To me, the fact that there are some fun climbs there is much more important than who did them or what they are called. As a peon who's just looking for something different to climb I really could care less who wants to "claim" the rock.
The fact that Chris only refers to the area with the generic term "Eagle Creek" and didn't bother to name anything makes me suspect that he wasn't really sure. All he did was throw in a couple of anchors and let other people know about some routes that haven't been climbed in a decade or so. For that I thank him.
Comparing this scenario to renaming the Salathe and claiming an FA is a pretty wild stretch at best.
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UncleDoug
Social climber
N. lake Tahoe
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David,
I believe "we" my business partner and I, go into it with you a bit when the Tahoe Guide was published.
I'm sorry if this has you in a defensive posture here, but I don't think my statement is a stretch, at all.
So by your standard it would be cool for me to "claim" all the routes I've done "as my own" and publish a book featuring these routes with my own names and my own history to it regardless of the real history of the climb or area. Right?
Since I'm not a valley local, the history should not matter to me?
Just because Tahoe is not the big ditch does not lessen the history behind an area. I don't think the sun will rise in the west if something is missnamed, but in this case since money is being made from guide books in the area, a little tact(i.e. ask "hey has anyone ever climbed this before" instead of saying "hey, I found new climbs!") and thorough research on the history of the area is in order.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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I'm still having a difficult time matching the photos of the ice routes to the first photo in this thread that Chris posted. They look much different.
I believe that is because the ice route (singular) is to the right of the routes in the first photo in this thread .. I went and looked up Bird Turd in the south lake tahoe supertopo guide, and it looks at least plausible (I should go look at it during the summer sometime too).
Seems as though there is precedent for an ice climb which forms over an existing rock route to have a different name ... no worries either way - I was just curious about the area.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Coiler's right. Those were done in the 80s!
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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Uncle Doug, I'm not interested in arguing about it. You make good points.
I had a fun morning climbing the routes in question with a friend. There are some easy routes that will be a good place to take my young daughter in a couple more years. That's my only interest in this subject.
Cheers
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Juggler
Trad climber
Earth
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Foghorn Leghorn....although he was a rooster not an eagle
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kuan
Sport climber
CA
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Biega, dude, you are like MasterCard: Everywhere I want to be.
How are those stairs going for you? I'll buy you a shot of whiskey when you are done building them, deal?
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jan 17, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
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A couple weeks ago I went back with some friends, one of whom led a route to the right of Cutty Sark -
Looked kinda thin & mixed towards the top, and he used a tree at the top as an anchor. Do you suppose this one is called Crown Royal ?
(I hear it got pretty warm in south tahoe over the weekend)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 17, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
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Looks more like a Maker's Mark.
Cool pics!~
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Rosamond
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Maker's mark would be a good name. Except that Maker's Mark was the name I gave to a seldom formed route I put up after the 1997 flood/freeze cycle. Alot of ice FAs happened that month all around the Tahoe region and eastern Sierra. The thing I call Maker's Mark is ~another 100 feet right of the Cutty Sark variation he's shown on here. Starts below an iced up squeeze chimney, then proceeds up then up and right to finish on mixed/dry tooling in a dihedral top out. WI4 M3. I don't know if anybody's named the right variant to cutty sark he's shown on in the pics above.
But yes, truly, many, many lines have been climbed on the Whiskey wall, dating at least back to the early 80s (Bridwell should be asked about this, cause I suspect he's the guy who would have climbed some of these as ice lines as far back as the mid 70s) and some of these old lines are indeed the lines that McNamara climbed as rock routes, especially #s 5 thru 9. We've been ice climbing and or dry tooling them for decades now. I would second Brian's statement that you should show deference to our local historical names, rather than giving these routes new names. To do otherwise would show some pretty profound disrespect.
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