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My Name Is Drew
Big Wall climber
Dogtown, LosAngeles, CA.
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Jun 21, 2007 - 10:16pm PT
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Cheers indeed for posting that.
If we could see more of this kind of thing, scans of out of print classic magazine pieces I'm sure everyone would lap it up. Ta Steve.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 22, 2007 - 03:36am PT
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Good Climbing related topic. thanks
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Dragger
Mountain climber
Bay Area, CA
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Jun 22, 2007 - 12:01pm PT
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A tip of the hat to the FAs. What a great route!
Looking down the Strange Dihedral...
And later, on the top -- first wall.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 14, 2008 - 02:08am PT
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300' flake instead of the crap low angle stuff on top? someone enlighten me please.
thx
it means having to do the belly crawl pitch tho. ugh, been there done that. not necessary.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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May 14, 2008 - 11:26am PT
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Thanks for the post
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Double D
climber
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May 14, 2008 - 11:45am PT
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Chiloe that's a classic story...more pictures???
Bill Price and I did the Prow as our first "winter ascent" on a four day weekend when we were in high school. Armed with wool knicker's and long underwear, we encountered a heat wave with temps hovering around 85 degrees. Both of us got severely dehydrated but had the time of our lives.
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James
climber
Santa Cruz
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May 14, 2008 - 12:42pm PT
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I wonder if this thing will go fully free. The bit from the third pitch to the strange dihedral haven't gone yet but there's features out right. Great route.
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prunes
climber
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May 14, 2008 - 02:39pm PT
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This was one of my first walls which I did with Billy Russell.Upon waking up in the morning on Tapir Terrace I found a solid gold hoop earring in a shallow crack next to the wall.25 years later and I am still wearing it.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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May 14, 2008 - 03:50pm PT
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That "Denny Arm" thing, ya know, was just a tribute to his reach. He has a foot on me, easy -- maybe more -- and that's just height. Hanging out with him again last summer, the old familiar crick in my neck returned.
Seemed like he had me by a yard in Ape Index, and that Denny Arm was responsible for my giving up aid climbing. Direct South Face of Rixons, '64 or '65, but definitely when I was humbly bumbly and couldn't make the reach to his placements in that first arching corner right off the ground. Neither could my taller partner, John Fischer. Shut right down by the long arm of the Denny. Even went back months later, in disbelief. Same result.
Later, went up the same wall, further left, with Kor. I'd hate to say which of those guys had the reach. Sheer relativity of my POV that makes speculation...well, mere speculation.
Gave up and settled for free climbing.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 14, 2008 - 08:19pm PT
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Double D:
Chiloe that's a classic story...more pictures???
Just a few, wish I had more from that '71 ascent. Knickers and knotted etriers:
An old canvas duffle for a haul bag, catching the first flakes of snow as the storm hits on day 3:
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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A great first wall!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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I had so much fun in 77 with Scott Kimmet the sailor that I went back and did it again 2 years later with the Grinch. I was in love with that thing.
I watched in horror as my dry salami rolled off Tapir Terrace...my only expensive treat!!
Luckily, we had weed left, but no water..It's always something isn't it?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2008 - 11:47pm PT
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A winter's bump!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Dec 31, 2008 - 01:05pm PT
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The middle of the Prow has some excellent positioning and views of the Valley and the Dome. That was my second wall and brings back fond memories of dangling up there with Rick Accomazzo and Richard Harison. We felt like mountain climbers.
JL
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 31, 2008 - 01:37pm PT
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And another big thanks to Mr. Grossman for
posting some incredible history, and hearing
other's fun on the wall.
Great stuff!
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Dec 31, 2008 - 11:49pm PT
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Did it in Oct 2006 with John "Jedi" Fitzgerald, stellar route! The position is truely unique and you get to watch the sun come up over Half Dome every morning! A welcome sight if your cold!
You might bring a couple beaks for hooking blown heads or be prepared to replace them? If I remember correctly there were only a few, but I took a picture of the one with like three wires left that held 210 lbs + an aid rack!!
We spent the night in the dirt on top and watched a magnificent sunset over El Cap. The trail down was memorable too, like sorta brutal and sketchy in some spots!! The route is highly recommended and I REALLY appreciate the post of the original FA!!
There has been a lot of Golden Age sharing this year and I hope that all parties will continue!
Thanks and Happy New Year,
Thor
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Danielle Winters
Trad climber
Alaska
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The Prow was a beautiful climb. I did it in 76 with John Yablonski . Like Chiloe the memories have faded a bit, but I do remember the bivy ledge was way too small and not level enough for a good nights sleep. I also remember John breaking out of the aiders several times, and free climbing some of the stuff that was suppose to be Aided at that time in history. But most of all I remember John throwing the Haul bag full of gear ( mostly my stuff ) off the top ( Against my advice ) .So we didn't have to carry it down . And never getting it back . And the long walk down in total silence. But I am sure I would do it all over again if it were possible.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2009 - 01:43pm PT
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I had a chance to ask Covington about his involvement in the FA this summer. The perception about the route requiring excessive bolting for the standard of the day was still fresh in his mind as he commented with some relief about having begged out. Somewhat like avoiding an headon with a chicken truck! LOL
"Robbins, Robbins, not you, not you, man!"
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Did it as my first valley aidroute in 1994.
photo: Magnus Nilsson
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2009 - 04:17pm PT
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Schultz looks to be under the Spell of the Iron Monkey!
Nice fisheye shot Michael.
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