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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2007 - 08:19am PT
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Heh, wrong cowboy! I thought the hat would be a dead giveaway, but it was too out-of-context for the westerners perhaps.
Only a Nor'easterner would know the route, though. See the white flake overhead? We'll get out a photo TR of the other stuff soon.
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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Jun 18, 2007 - 09:06am PT
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The climber kind of looks like GOclimb but I can't be sure.
I'm sure I should know the route but I can't quite place it.
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Jun 18, 2007 - 10:33am PT
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I see tar opted for the single line, looks fun
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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Jun 18, 2007 - 10:49am PT
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Is it on Whitehorse?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2007 - 11:04am PT
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snakefoot, yeah, we used the doubles to get a couple pitches up CC (just one long rap down), then decided to "go light" on this route. Less clever than it sounded because we ended up needing both ropes to get down, again.
wootles, it's definitely on Whitehorse.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 18, 2007 - 11:18am PT
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Very cool thread. Out of curiousity, how many distinct seacliff areas have been developed in the NE these days?
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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Jun 18, 2007 - 11:25am PT
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Central area, maybe the Sleeping Beauty area?
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L
climber
A small kayak on a very big ocean
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Jun 18, 2007 - 12:04pm PT
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Great photos, Chiloe. That first one of you and the flower had my palms sweating for sure--but it certainly looked like a great climb.
And that shot of Tarbaby is an all-time classic! (Does that guy not believe in aging or what???)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2007 - 01:18pm PT
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wootles:
Central area, maybe the Sleeping Beauty area?
Correct area, and remember the title of the thread! (I'd say more but that would spoil the fun, and yeah, you do know the route.)
L:
Great photos, Chiloe. That first one of you and the flower had my palms sweating for sure--but it certainly looked like a great climb.
Thanks, I thought Michael's photos caught the "atmosphere" of the place well.
And that shot of Tarbaby is an all-time classic! (Does that guy not believe in aging or what???)
One or two even better (IMHO) cowboy-hat photos from other North Conway classics yet to come; I'm waiting for Tar to get back online before posting. He shot a few too, don't know what they'll show. Tar and Lisa (who took first in her division, btw, at the tough Mt. Washington road race) ought to be kickin' back on Cape Cod today.
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wootles
climber
Gamma Quadrant
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Jun 18, 2007 - 02:31pm PT
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OK I'm thinking Short Order and that crack is the upper part on Sleeping Beauty.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2007 - 03:41pm PT
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Now yah got it, Short Order. Just what we needed at day's end, almost beer time. Sleeping Beauty is the cleaned diagonal line at top left in the photo.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Jun 18, 2007 - 04:56pm PT
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Wootles, you're right, it does kinda look like me! Never been in that section of the cliff, though, I don't think. Might haveta change that, though, looks cool.
Chiloe, drop me a line if you're still around. Been too long since we've roped up.
GO
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Jun 18, 2007 - 05:00pm PT
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And here's a 5.8 I did recently. Allison seconding Bishop's Terrace. Really nice climbing. Sorry the photo doesn't do it justice.
GO
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Jun 18, 2007 - 05:05pm PT
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And on the other side of the country, Crow Hill, the best local crag in Massachusetts contains this gem called Tarzan. In this pic, Jen rallies her strength before heading into the 20 foot crux. Tarzan is a steep and technical 5.8. Sustained, with jams, laybacks, stems, slopers, and crimps. If you can lead this climb, you can lead any trad 5.8 in Mass!
GO
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2007 - 06:05pm PT
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Nice photos, Gabe. Sounds like Tarzan is another of those old-school 5.8s that had teeth.
Great weather like this and the bugs aren't too bad, I'll send you a note the next window I have.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
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Lately, I've been seeing a lot of this mellow grade.
Tarbuster again two years later, this time stylin' across Ruper.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Swedish climbers are core!
Holy crap - I replace my rope every year.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Want to have serious fun? Spend a day climbing "only" 5.8 in the Gunks.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Herb Laeger and Paul Clark designated this one as a 5.8 on the FA. Following an early ascent Eddie Joe pronounced this to be "the sandbag of the century."
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Gilroy
Social climber
Boulderado
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Good thing he is "fairly solid" on "5.8."
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