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bob
climber
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Tarbuster: No Jones 40+, sorry. I'm Jensen from all over the Western arena at 30+ and going strong.
Lucho? Donde??
Bob J.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Jay Wood said: "I hardly ever see anyone on Crescent Arch- why is that? It's one of the best routes I've done up there. Kind of a big brother to Comittment."
Well, this is a tad off topic, but I don't know where else to say it. so...
Two years ago I did what I believe was a FA up in the right side of Murphy Creek drainage on a small white outcrop, probably just less than half way to the topo'd Murphy Creek crag. It's a one pitch line that is kind of like Cresent Arch's little brother and very fun! Starts liebacking a beautiful gold water polished corner (5.7), then tips underclings out right till it pinches off, then .9+/.10a face climbing on tiny friction edges till the flared fingers underclinging starts. Finishes on a shelf with a horn you can rap from, or continue up to a tree and walk off. Called it "Lunula."I was working a fun direct but short second pitch finish up steep cracks but didn't redpoint it.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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The bolt on the face pitch of The Coming is way up there, I put it at a 70' runout in the ST, but did it again last year with a mid-marked rope and it's more like 85-90'.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Jun 20, 2007 - 02:28pm PT
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G_Gnome, when you said Ursula was more serious than Ciebola, did you mean Tune Up? I don't remember anything especially runout on Ursula. Ciebola's first pitch is pretty stiff for .10a, and requires gear.
But, it's been a while.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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Jun 20, 2007 - 02:57pm PT
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John, the slab approach pitch for Ursula is scary enough. I don't think it is possible to take anything longer than about a 30 footer on Ciebola, I am not sure you could say the same about Ursula. As for Tune Up, I have done it and the 2nd pitch requires 3 runouts in a row of 40'. The climbing is some of the best I have ever done and the rock is spectacular. But the climbing is on quartz crystalline structure and is all slightly down-pointing and slippery. At no point do you grab a hold and say to yourself 'ok, I can't fall off here'. I will never lead Tune Up again! I think I would rather do the B-Y.
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Bart Fay
Social climber
Redlands, CA
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Jun 20, 2007 - 03:37pm PT
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I never found the bolt up on the slab of The Coming. IIRC, I ran a full rope length
and never found a bolt or sufficient placements. Ended up downclimbing the entire pitch.
My partners seemed more gripped than me. I really wanted to see The Lake of The Domes.
"I would like to have seen Montana" Capt. Vasili Borodin
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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So, has this been a wet summer or a dry one in the Meadows? Anyone been close enough to check
out that frequently-wet arch on Chartres?
Just wondering.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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This thread needs more pictures.
just sayin'....
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Here ya go, Bluey, Lament on The Lamb back in EB days. No pro to mess up your concentration.
But in 2009, has it been wet or dry?
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Been a wet spring /summer, was up on medlicott yesterday did some really fun sport routes to the right of slipstream and left of west face route. We also climbed the west face, a bit wet at the bottom but no problem. To who ever replaced the bolts on omega race, slipstream ,scorpion ( probably the one responsible for the sport routes?) COOL!!! THANKS!!
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
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I looked at Chartres again this weekend. It looked a bit wet, but not too bad. Good to reread the posts of some who have done it, as I mainly remember Baba's description as 'serious'.
It's still on the list, but have ticked off some others.
The last few days-
"Uh Huh'- could use a couple of new bolts. does this ever get climbed?
'Middle Earth' - intricate route finding. sustained. not a date climb.
'Big Boys Don't Cry'- after 1 foot- jarring fall on the top out crux, I went around.
Also recent-
'Sweet Jesus'- much better in the morning on cool rock.
'Ursula'- runout, and 1 hard move down low with bad fall potential
'Breathing Hard'- runout, didn't find bolt on upper knob sea.
'The Coming'- good route, a bit of everything
'Roseanne' - better without the hail
'Inverted Staircase'- heinous rope drag after the staircase. very cool.
Current list:
American Wet Dream- I got a bit scared from the ST route description. How is it?
Fairest of All
Oz
Streamline
Harlot
The Sting
Tune up (Dozier)
Any beta?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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There's a bolt on the Coming? Woops.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jay,
Keith Royster and I did an early ascent of Chartes in 78-79 I think?
I was completely blown away and in love with it. There WAS water under the arch, but I managed to get through it without falling.
I had NEVER seen a route of that size and magnitude without a SINGLE piece of fixed gear in. At least at that time there wasn't one fixed piece. It was one of the most beautiful aesthetic things I had ever seen.
PLEASE go do it and take a ton of pics. Take me back up there!!
If you don't get to it before then, you can drag me up it next year!!!!
That's a pretty glowing endorsement, I've been around.....
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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I climbed Chartres 25-30 years ago and don't remember a thing about it. Never did a bad route in Tuolumne though!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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To chime in on Ursula, I did that only about 5 yrs. ago and didn't find it too bad, which is saying something because it was pretty much off the couch. Some runouts on that upper bolted pitch, but if you were able to dispatch that lower .10c pitch, that shouldn't be too much of a problem.
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bob
climber
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I've done the route twice now and I will go back again. I love that its a pure weakness. Even the friggen pitch that says there is no crack. THEY LIE! I mean look at those huge crazy ass corners. How are we going to link that at 5.9? What an adventure for a first ascent. Amazing that it is what it is.
Haven't done it this year. Stuck in AZ.
Jay Wood, all of those routes you list are great fun. I've done Uh Huh. Kinda hard through that arch as I recall. The sting is a funny route with some really good climbing on it. I think you're lookin at all new bolts now. Fairest of All is super fun. Sheez......they're all so fun. FUG!
Have fun folks.
EDIT: Fat, did you ever do Out of Gas? I believe left of Ursula
Bob J.
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DanaB
climber
Philadelphia
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I did Uh Huh about 20-25 years ago. I recall long runouts and less than inspiring bolts.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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I've done American Wet Dream a couple of times and thought it was a pretty good route. The ledge interruptions bugged me a little. It's no Lucky Streaks, but some of the climbing is pretty good. Steep, lieback crux on one of the upper pitches.
Fairest of All is kinda nebulous and run out at first, but has some burly crack pitches in the dihedral that arches over to the right. The crux is some steep, pure face climbing near the end and bolt protected. I've always wanted to do it again.
Oz. The face is the crux and is well protected. Incredible dihedral with a hard bulge near the end. I thought the last pitch was really fun too, the icing on the cake.
I haven't done or talked to anyone about Streamline or Harlot. But Ciebola should be on your list.
The Sting was not very memorable. I recall a long horizontal undercling, and heat. Never wanted to do it again. I think Hoodwink is the route to do over there.
Tune up (Dozier). Earlier on this thread, I think it was G_Gnome
who said he'd rather lead Bachar-Yerian. It looks terrifying. I never tried it, and probably won't unless following. If you can get past the scary little overhang on the first pitch (G_Gnome--I remember it now), Ursula is the route to do on Dozier. The .10c move is well protected.
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Did The Coming last weekend. My partner started on the 10a variation, then got greedy and linked the next 5.9 corner all the way to the ledge (70 meter rope). He did a fun move when he turned the corner at the top of the second pitch to the left, instead of stepping out right and going over the roof as in the topo. This involved stemming out onto the vertical corner on the one small foothold chip/knob and reaching for a horizontal crack, then footswitch and turning the arete onto the slab. Really cool move. Not sure this is the route but it should be.
I don't know about the bolt up there, are they talking about the 5.6 way? Go straight up the fun 5.7/.8 knobs. After about 50ft or a little less cracks start to appear and then it's never really run out after that.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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eastside - we replaced the top anchors and Roger Brown replaced all the bolts on Omega Race, Vapor Lock, Slipstream (except the last few pitches), etc. Actually I think the top bolt(s) on Vapor Lock were stainless SMCs with 5/16" buttonheads so he may have left those.
Roger also replaced every single bolt on the main right wall of Dozier - Ursula, Out of Gas, Tune Up, etc.
Melissa - the bolt on the Coming is 90' out from the belay up the "5.6" knobs (my partners informed me that I was only 10' from the middle mark on a 60m last time we did it). Going straight up is slightly harder but gets pro in half that distance (nuts, thin cams), and is a better line.
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