silent partner
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Messages 21 - 23 of total 23 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Melissa

Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
Aug 16, 2004 - 01:03pm PT
If you are actually falling quickly, the SP will seize up pretty fast once the slack in your line comes taught.

The problem that I had with it involved needing to take tension so that I could lower myself. You have to fall (accellerate) to get it to get the clove to catch whereas w/ a gri-gri you're ready to go as soon as you pull up the slack. Someone offered a suggestion for setting up lowers on the SP w/o doing this by running it through a leg-loop biner that might be worth trying.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 16, 2004 - 08:28pm PT
Tyrone,
When I first gor the SP I tied off to a 40 ft crag. I was useing a PMI 9.7 rope. I jumped off a 8 to 10 ft rock maybe 10 times and I never hit the ground. So I think in normal operation, top roped, on vertical rock you'll fall about 5 feet. The couple of top rope falls I've taken were consistant with this. YMMV. A partner is better.
Good Luck
Mike Hartley

climber
Colorado Springs
Aug 17, 2004 - 11:52am PT
mudimba - something sounds off with your set-up. With a 10.2 rope as long as you aren't traversing you should be able to get the SP to feed smoothly unless your rope feels like cable. I use a 10.5 - llmm on it all the time. Be sure you are putting your clove on it properly. It's possible to have the ropes which feed out of the clove set up 180 degrees opposite from the way the manual shows. I think in this orientation you will have more problems with it locking up.

For pure freeclimbs (without chimneys) I like carrying the rope with me in a daypack. You will still have to deal with at least one backup loop (if you value your neck). You can set up your backup in numerous ways including running it through a gri-gri on a leg loop and then to your SP. Its not as foolproof as using a knot on a biner but it allows you to easily adjust the length of the backup loop and feed more rope out.
Messages 21 - 23 of total 23 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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