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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 18, 2007 - 11:53am PT
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Holy frig! What a story! Thanks for the updates, Tom. Fantastic flying and huge kudos to YOSAR for hanging their asses on the line to save the likes of us dirtbags, who should join me in offering our continuing thanks. Best wishes and prayers to buddy with the busted leg.
Here is your Dr. Piton Big Wall Tip of the Day:
When leading penji pitches - even easy ones - use a second lead rope, even if it's a skinny one.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 18, 2007 - 11:54am PT
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Go Rad!
Tough break on the Nose, but Yosemite climbers are fortunate indeed for the gallantry of the rescue crews.
Be good to see a proper evaluation of the incident, but I think we all already know that if you cut corners on safety in the interest of speed or convenience then when the bill DOES come due the price can be high.
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YetAnotherDave
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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May 18, 2007 - 11:55am PT
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King Swing will probably be my lead, when we get on the Nose early next week. Gonna be hard to move fast with this incident in my head...
Huge props to the YOSAR crew, and many thanks to Tom for keeping an eye on us all while we play.
Dave
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wildone
climber
Isolated in El Portal and loving it
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May 18, 2007 - 12:03pm PT
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I got to the meadow right after they left. Quite a scene.
That chopper sure was a stripped down performance looking unit. Did'nt have one un neccessary piece on it. No fuselage, even. Just a glass bubble, and an airframe. I imagine it to be the equivalent of stripping the radio and ac, etc out of a race car.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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May 18, 2007 - 12:26pm PT
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Thanks for the report, Tom. Speedy recovery to the guy who got hurt.
I'm not sure what system Clint uses, Lammy, but I've used a system that I call a moving anchor. I've done it on solos, where I have three pieces I move along until I'm out of the hard/bad spot. A little slower but effective.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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May 18, 2007 - 01:44pm PT
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props to the rescuers and I hope the climber gets well.
clint said "If you are going for speed, I guess you backclean fully and belay higher, so your partner can swing over instead of lowering down by much? "
My partner didnt place any gear until about 20 feet above that belay which allowed me to swing right over. He ended up belaying at the next pitch. This is fast, but also no room for error there either....Another point, I think he was freeing all that. Sometimes it is better to rely on your free abilities than gear (note aliens thread)
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DMBARN
climber
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May 18, 2007 - 01:45pm PT
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Greetings everyone;
I work as a Trauma Case Manager (RN) at the hospital where this climber was flown. Here is an update he said I was allowed to give. I told him this was likely to be a hot topic on the forum and would he mind if I let everyone know he was going to be fine. He said yes.
He arrived perfectly alert and oriented with stable vital signs(when you get the original report your never sure whats going to show up at the back door-100' fall? geesh, this is gonna be baaaad!. From the flight crew report he "only" lost about a Liter of blood, not the "gallons" that Tom spoke about (no offence, Tom!). Never complained the whole time I took care of him before rolling him off to surgery. Always appologized when he asked for anything-a complete gentleman. He also estimates he fell about 60-100' but maybe he's not the best one to estimate that. I asked him if he got to meet the "famous Werner". He said no but did rememebr Keith and Jack and was appreciative of their (and everyones) good work on his behalf.
He had a few other minor injuries and he will recover fully.
I will print all these comments here and bring them to him as I am sure he will get a kick out of all the concern shown him buy the community, and it really is a community.
Regards, Douglas
PS.. Hey Tom, email me some of those shots you took of the rescue and I'll get them to him. I know he would like that. The flight crew had some shots they took on one of those little point-n-shoots but they were really grainy.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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May 18, 2007 - 01:53pm PT
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cool, thanks
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Gene
climber
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May 18, 2007 - 02:06pm PT
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Great news on the injured Bro.
How did his partner get down? Rap w/ all the gear? What a day for all involved.
Time to update/upgrade my first aid skills.
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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May 18, 2007 - 02:43pm PT
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Glad to hear this chap is doing well enough to inform us on ST. If I'm on my deathbed my last words will be "post . . my . . story . . on .. . . Sup.. . arrrrrrrrrrrrr. . ."
". . . . and send me . . Tom's . . pics. . . "
RIP Texplorer
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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May 18, 2007 - 03:23pm PT
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Wow! This is awesome, DMBARN! We're all glad to hear he's doing well and I bet he'll be excited to see pics! Nice!
Thanks for posting!
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Chico
Trad climber
Mt. Shasta, CA
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May 18, 2007 - 03:32pm PT
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YOSAR, Kieth, Jack. You guys are my friggin' heroes! Way to go. Seriously. Thank you for what you do.
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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May 18, 2007 - 04:29pm PT
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re: "I will print all these comments here and bring them to him as I am sure he will get a kick out of all the concern shown him buy the community"
Hey dude- the diving board is up on top
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DMBARN
climber
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May 18, 2007 - 04:49pm PT
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What is "the diving board"?
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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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May 18, 2007 - 05:13pm PT
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Hey, I knew a guy (Wayne Hack sp?) who broke a leg somewhere near boot flake back in the early '70s. As I heard the story it was one of the first big rescues off el cap. I think they lowered a cable all the way from the top, picked him up and lowered the rest of the way to the ground. The rescue was featured in Look or Life magazine.
Does anyone remember that rescue? Anyone here involved.
I think I heard all this third hand; maybe second. And it was long long ago so I may have stuff wrong.
Anyway, helicopters sound a little more efficient.
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Jordan Ramey
Trad climber
Oklahoma City, OK
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May 18, 2007 - 05:18pm PT
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I believe (and I could be wrong) that the diving board is the spot people typically base jump off of El Cap from since it somewhat resembles a diving board projection out from the edge.
Awesome rescue. Best wishes for a speedy recovery!
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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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May 18, 2007 - 05:41pm PT
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Yep, I think that was the accident. Neal and Wayne(I guess his partner) were two of my first mentors.
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Neil
Gym climber
Here and there
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May 18, 2007 - 05:57pm PT
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May the victim have a quick recovery. Nice work, y'all.
Nate
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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May 18, 2007 - 10:57pm PT
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Yo... yeah it was a YOSAR golden moment... all the folks there always have my TOTAL RESPECT and that chopper pilot rules the skies for sure. I am on someone elses computer up here and thus cant send pics... Werner has access to the 100 or so shots I took as I gave them to SAR this morning. Werner post some of them for the folks. I was exagerating on the amount of blood as I was Half a mile away... but it looked bad through the scope so I told all the emergency folks that they needed to get this guy off really quick or it was going to be a very bad day here... they came through big time like always...
Later Tom
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WBraun
climber
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May 18, 2007 - 11:00pm PT
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Hey Tom
I don't have sh'it. Who did you give em to? I missed you this morning.
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