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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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I understand that this route sent Wolfgang Gullich packing after a huge fall, and if I'm
knott mistaken, he did a lot of early repeats of Yosemite testpieces, knott to mention
that on 4 different occasions in his life, he had the FA of the hardest route in the world.
Gotta be the most under-appreciated climber of all time, to be sure.
I would like to hear more about his B/Y attempt!
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Bart Fay
Social climber
Redlands, CA
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Howzabout the excellent story about Lynn, Woodward, & ??Clune?? on the B-Y. That was a hoot.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Maybe add the Frenchman, Marc LeMenstrual too..... whipper?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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I always wanted to do it and started training for it one year. I had the knob climbing down and was working on my head when I got on Tune Up on Dozier Dome. After the 3 40 foot runouts in a row on 10b second pitch I decided I would be happy if I never got 40 feet out again and kind of gave up on ever leading the thing.
Now days I think about rapping in and top roping each pitch working my way down. That way if I can't do the crux first pitch it won't matter as much.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Wow, cool stories, Kurt and Al!
There's a great article in the 1984 AAJ, "The Path of the Master - Tuolumne" by Alan Nelson, where he and Rob Oravetz tried to get the second ascents of a couple of John Bachar testpieces. They did manage to get You Asked for It, but failed on the Bachar-Yerian. It includes a brief mention of the attempt by Wolfgang Gullich and Kurt Albert [Edit: not Kurt Albert, but Theirry Renault - see later posts](aka "european party").
Check it out:
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1984/109_nelson_tuolumne_aaj1984.pdf
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan/Gnome,
I have tried toproping the second pitch of the Bachar-Yerian twice, after doing Shambles and Shipoopi and rappelling diagonally to it. I think on my best try, I fell/hung 5 times. For fun, we calculated how far I would have gone if had been on lead. The minimum was 50 feet. Most of the time the bolts are out of sight, somewhere up above! There are not any technically very hard moves on this pitch, but it's steep so you have to be able to efficiently weight your feet and move along so you don't pump out in the middle of nowhere like I did.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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I always enjoyed the profile on Steve Schneider in Climbing from the mid-90's that included a detailed account of the 2nd ascent of the BnY.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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I have that issue, but don't remember a detailed account of the ascent, just that he did it.
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jerr
climber
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How were the bolts placed on BY? From stance? Hooks?
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CF
climber
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Here are some shots of Burke on then BY. I zoomed in and could see maybe one bolt he has clipped in the photos. John Harpo belaying. You should have seen the pre climb ritual.
Burke flashing the peace sign.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Yes!!! Walleye!!
Belayed Schnieder on a Body and Soul attempt. He did it one week later with Barbella belaying. Another superb route!
Tierry Renault (fra.) took a 60 footer and broke ankles/wrist
John - you should tell the Moffat story.....
CF- nice shots!
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Awesome photos, you guys. Thanks for posting!
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Yeah. Crikey that thing is steeper than I thought.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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The 2nd photo looks slightly tilted (look at the trees), but still steep!
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10b4me
Trad climber
Hell A
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May 10, 2007 - 12:11am PT
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I always enjoyed the profile on Steve Schneider in Climbing from the mid-90's that included a detailed account of the 2nd ascent of the BnY.
isn't that the one where he talks about almost coming off about three times? it was a good read.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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May 10, 2007 - 12:17am PT
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Thierry Renault (sp?) falling on the 2nd pitch. He ends up below the belayer (Wolfgang Gullich). They went home after that.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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May 10, 2007 - 01:01am PT
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" Biographie at Ceuse, 14c and 90' tall, is commonly redpointed with only 4 bolts clipped. "
There are no doubt some badasses out there. I think what makes the BnY so special is that
1. you aren't skipping bolts to make the climb easier cause you have the moves dialed....you just don't have any other options.
2. The knobs on the route have often broken, and knob climbing in general is a little odd and insecure.
3. The bolts are lost in a sea of knobs and dark rock. You are lucky if you can find them and as illustrated in previous accounts, good climbers often climb past them.
4. The route finding is difficult. You aren't headed up an obvious face with limited holds. There is a sea of holds and most of them suck and its hard to know which combination will take you in the right direction.
This isn't a situation of Americans just being wimps. As was stated, Wolgang Gullich, an experienced mountain climber and 4 time holder of the hardest route ever done status got BOUTED. Its a testpiece.
And yeah man that article where Schneider talks about having knobs break and fully barn dooring out 3 times looking at 60 - 80 footers. My stomach was in my throat!!
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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May 10, 2007 - 01:03am PT
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"The Gullich/Bombs Over Tokyo story would be a good one to hear JB's side of... "
I'd love to hear ALL sides of it. I've done the first pitch to that route tons of times. Love it. I've always been curious what the deal with the rest of it was.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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May 10, 2007 - 10:42am PT
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Has this climb been chopped yet?
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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May 10, 2007 - 12:13pm PT
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Hankster-
Would love to hear about your attempt back in the early 90's.
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