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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Apr 15, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
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that's really neat Carolyn C.
Along with GIMP there is Photoshop Elements, it often comes bundled with a Canon scanner or Wacom tablet, but is normally about $99. I believe it would be ideal for your use - quite powerful. If you are ever at Borders, take a look for Deke McClellands book on it - he be du man.
I got some scans and stuff I'm gonna post coming up here - camera battery charging...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2007 - 02:36pm PT
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Ha!
Now this is getting fun.
Billy Roos is such a great guy.
I must have sold my Chouinard wall hammer in desperate times darnit; so in the late 80's I drilled a bunch of bolts, new routes and anchor replacements throughout Tuolumne, Yosemite, & JT with an old Forest ice hammer who's pick had long snapped off, so when Billy saw what I'd been using he gave me the CMI.
My copy of Chelton & Godfrey's "Climb!" also came from Roos; why he cut that loose, jeez.
So Chiloe, back to "Internet Show & Tell":
Here be John Ruger's Chouinards, say, what can you do with these?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2007 - 03:09pm PT
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Hah! Don't think I have any of Ruger, although his Eldo years overlapped with mine. Didn't he go off to biathalon?
However, in that spirit, here's a never-before-seen shot of Sibley, wearing Voyager klettershoes I think, leading Out to Lunge in 1970. Look closely for the Colorado Nut Company I-beam on his rack.
And a couple more of Bill Roos, on Green Slab Direct that same year. Photo quality is way short of publishable -- on this camera I had to guess distance and exposure, so almost everything was 30ft, 1/100 at f16 -- but the Kodachrome colors have sure held up well. There's that hammer again.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Apr 15, 2007 - 03:21pm PT
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a lot of the Colorado guys liked wearing plaid shirts...I've noticed this repeatedly over the years.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2007 - 03:44pm PT
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Yes,
Fun stuff, plaid shirts 'n all and yes, good fresh color still.
I tinkered with that Sibley shot and I don't know what those are that Sibley is edging about in on Out to Lunge:
Hey, Chiloe,
Someone told me these Krony copies, by Voyager (Vasque), were called Diretissima, no?
(These boots are actually mine, 'bought them new just last year):
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2007 - 03:59pm PT
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And Yes, Ruger got into Bi-Athalon, apparently following a tragedy which he witnessed on the Diamond and now does some sort of Olympic related organization. He still lives in Boulder and I ran into him recently at Sibley's wedding.
I've got this drawing which I inherited from the late Randi Eyre; I don't think it is her work, but some say they think it is depicts Ruger, I'm not so sure, but I like it:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2007 - 04:07pm PT
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Oh Yah,
Almost forgot, the Sibley/Roos Colorado Nut Biz:
There's the I Beam, next to what might be a Peck Cracker?
(some knurled round extruded thing good for pin scars and little else)
Sibley still had scads of that I Beam schwag, as well as some extruded hex shaped stock knockin' about when I lived at his place.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2007 - 04:31pm PT
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This is one of the few pictures which I haven't posted,
Myself on the left & Eric Erickson on the right, Provo Canyon Ice, 1980 (scan of a Polaroid):
It was a bit warm; we were there with Nick Badyrka.
Eric had sold me his Snowdon Mouldings "Curver" ax, a btutally dropped pick item with an orange fiberglass shaft sporting a bulge at the bottom just above the Ferrule. We dubbed it the "Plate Maker", for it's removal issues.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Apr 15, 2007 - 05:10pm PT
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really nice Tar, those Kronhofer copies are sexy sexy sexy - why does it make we think of Clint Eastwood and the Eiger Sanction or something? Late sixties Early seventies. I had an early pair of Pivetta Muir trails, a bit beefier but with a pretty thin-lugged sole and very closely trimmed and hell yes they climbed well.
Remember Pivetta?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2007 - 05:29pm PT
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All those klettershoe types have run together in my mind. I'm not certain what Sibley was wearing either, thought they were a Voyager/Vasque RR-alternative. I had a pair of real Kronhofers at the time that were my "easy soloing" shoes, they didn't edge but felt great running up the Flatirons or Calypso. Before RRs, there was another gray shoe called the Spider, Royal hisself wore them and said they were good -- that was enough for me. Spiders were stiffer than Kronhofers, and I could see how they prefigured Royal's design for RRs.
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Apr 15, 2007 - 06:18pm PT
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Oh man, this is becoming a major thread drift here...
Pivetta. That brand was originally imported by Donner Mountain Company (DMC), I think. (A spinoff company of the founder of Ski Hut, in Berkeley. See more in the other thread nearby.) Those Muir Trails never seemed to climb as well as Kronhoffers--according to the oldsters hanging-out at Indian Rock back then. Got me started, though. As I recall, the MTs had an additional leather rand around the toe that meant that the toe-cap never stretched as much as the Kronnies, so you never got that tight, kid-glove feel of a well-broken in pair of Kronnies. But, then again, you didn't wear through them quite as quickly... I remember Royal with a pair of Spiders.
Weren't Kronhoffers originally imported by Holubar?
Kamps famously wore Cortinas. Weren't they a Pivetta brand? And wasn't the "Spider" back then also made by Pivetta? ...long before Boreal came out with their model? It's all so confusing!
I remember what a splash the Galibier PAs and RDs made to the Berkeley bouldering scene back then... Got my first pair of RRs in 1969, brought 'em down in 1970 when I came to SoCal. Did my first route at Suicide (Serpentine) in 'em. And what was the name of those black Galibiers that were even STIFFER that the RRs? Calcaires?
And, hey, while all those ancient braincells are all mis-firing... Wasn't there an old shoe called "Gollies"? [And, no, Google's not too helpful on this one.]
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2007 - 07:42pm PT
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Ya,
Ahem,
I was gonnah say Roos might have been in Spiders or Cortinas there up thread, but upon further inspection, it sure looks like blue meanies:
Here's my current set, the 3rd set I've burned through in the last 15 years in the high peaks, these were um, ya, once belonged to Sibley:
Here's Billy Roos & Paul Sibley about 10 years ago:
The Pivetta that was grey was the Muir Trail; they climbed no where near as good as those Krony copies I have, but they were really well crafted, hiked nice and stood in aiders pretty good.
The Cortina or Spider might have been made by Fabiano?
Fabiano did do a sort of Muir Trail thing with an extra leather rand and we still had some of those at YMS up into 80's
Hey, what are you guys doin' inside on a Sunday anyhow, when it's so nice outside?
-How 'bout someone post up an old picture?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2007 - 08:45pm PT
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Hey, what are you guys doin' inside on a Sunday anyhow, when it's so nice outside?
Not so nice up this way, we got us yetanother Nor'easter. Been fun playin' with the scanner, though.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Apr 15, 2007 - 08:52pm PT
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baby Pivettas, the "Muir trail"
was just a neat hiking boot that scrambled well, not a real Klettershoe -
I recall doing trailside boulders a fair bit in them during my two summers in Sequoia but, of course I also carried EB's.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2007 - 09:21pm PT
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Chiloe,
Yes the Nor-Easter.
My wife is in Boston to do the Marathon.
We'll see how it goes, she says massive water accumulation in the streets right now.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Apr 15, 2007 - 09:28pm PT
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new scanner (sorta new, does slides, 35 and 120mm negs)
Old Climbs (climbing places and old friends)
Ann Pond with Mother Grundy peak in the background. Ann helped me with Frog during the peak years of the mid 80's.
Say hello to my (new) little friend
Canon Elura mini DV
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2007 - 08:15am PT
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Chiloe,
Yes the Nor-Easter.
My wife is in Boston to do the Marathon.
We'll see how it goes, she says massive water accumulation in the streets right now.
I wish her and all the other runners good running. It's one of those mornings lesser folk will all hide indoors! They say it might ease off by midday, though.
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Apr 16, 2007 - 04:22pm PT
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Some shoe clarification:
The afore-mentioned Pivetta with the toe cap was the Cortina.
It was unlined. Kamps climbed in these for eons. They were wider
than Kronies. The Muir trail was lined and padded, more for hiking, without the toe cap.
Then Pivetta came out with the Spider. Same dark grey, narrower,
extra stiff, toe and heel cap.
Gollies (Gaulies?) were one of those hard-to-find Euro shoes that
didn't get imported, at least not by anybody competent. They were
the PA/EB style, all blue, leather, possibly the same as the Dolt
Blue Boot.
The stiff black Fabiano was the Black Beauty
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2007 - 05:22pm PT
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Thanks for the shoe info, scuffy. I used to know some of that stuff.
Couple more scans from 1969. Andy Embick again, on Jensen's Jaunt at Tahquitz. His footwear might be Black Beauties.
Bob Lakin heads toward the Matron carrying a well-worn old Goldline.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2007 - 05:51pm PT
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Glad ya like 'em. It's been fun going through the old slides. No masterpieces among them, far from it, but they tell a little about what it was like.
So Tar, how'd your wife do? On TV the runners looked to be coping well enough, no doubt with much extra effort.
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