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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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screw permission.
this is the inTARDweb.
give it up, babe!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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RE:
"Ray, what's with that bad vibe at Arch? Been there done that."
There is a history of near miss action in the recess (dark rock) on the far left side - no joke it's kinda bad juju over there. Karine and I were climbing Anticipation and she had a really close call.
the recess is distinctly different than the rest of the crag with it's "happy vibe" , IMHO.
The story of Karine's close call still gets my pulse going.
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Mimi
climber
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Would that be Anticipation?
Wow, that's spooky. I had a similar experience on Gripper.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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I think New Dimensions is my favorite 11a crack route in the entire universe. Midterm is the cleanest and varied 10a/b around and the last pitch of Gripper is all time. The other stuff is harder but not as classic IMO.
You know anyone who ever led Quicky Quizes?
JL
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Go for it Joe...I had my own near death experience there...other than that Arch Rock is an awesome crag. I actually met Largo there. Don't know if he remembers but it was in the spring of 73. I was doing the Gripper and he and some of his buddies showed up and were inquiring about Leanie Meanie which Donini (that sort of rhymes) dragged me up the previous fall.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Karine was trying to lead the second pitch (Anticipation), not moving great - clipped the fixed nut, made a move placed a piece, moved up and tried to place again.
I saw it was not going well. She blew the clip, (slack out) and moved to down climb (slipped), reached down for the nut above the fixed copperhead - shakey - lifted the nut out and was off - over backwards airborne..
Her back arched and she started to swing head first toward the corner - upside down - sailing through the air in a surprisingly big arch.
I went into auto - all the slack, the corners, I yarded in the line one two three, and caught her bare handed. Shortened her fall as her head hit (hard) the wall with a loud pop.
I figured that was it. Dead or major trauma - I planned the lower and piggy back carry to the Ranger Station but - she was "ok".
Big bloody lump. Her retina's were fine. I kept checking, finally let her drive home. She came back and got the gear later.
Scared the pee pee outa 'ol Raydog.
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WBraun
climber
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You know anyone who ever led Quicky Quizes?
I never led them, just free soloed.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Watched Eric Goukas solo Leanie Meanie one day, I think I turned away as he started the OW. Pretty Burly man.
Sorry if I misspelled his name.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mark wrote: "Arch Rock is an awesome crag. I actually met Largo there. Don't know if he remembers but it was in the spring of 73. I was doing the Gripper and he and some of his buddies showed up and were inquiring about Leanie Meanie which Donini (that sort of rhymes) dragged me up the previous fall."
Dood, I have a memory like an elephant for that kind of shite - can't remember other stuff at all. Couldn't tell you why.
So of course I remember metting you. But I'm pretrty sure it was '72, not '73. You were there with George Meyers. We'd all grew up together in the Valley.
I always liked Arch Rock because aside from a few moves on Ant., there's nothing there where my fat fingers would hold me back. I could pull good jams on most everything there.
Warner, I walked below Quicky Quizes 1,000 times and never did them. Don't know why.
JL
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Mimi
climber
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Ray, must've been the summer '86 that you watched Eric in action?
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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RE:
" Ray, must've been the summer '86 that you watched Eric in action?"
yeah it must have been - I recall being pretty blown away.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Wow - another barehanded grab.
I have often wondered how much harder Karine's head would have hit the cliff had I not taken in so much slack and caught her fall with my hands. I will never forget the sound her head made when it hit the cliff - or how the situation felt - way way close.
Mimi...the Gripper story?
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Mimi
climber
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Good thing Karine has such a hard head.
A hip belay got away from me on Gripper. Partner took a big one, only dinged her knee, and as Werner said that day, "It was not her day to die." Weird circumstances led me to think we shouldn't go out that morning or to that climb. Black luck day.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Ah, good ol' hip belays.
There was once maybe twice where I at (then) 125-129lbs thought that maybe I was hosed catching and holding dudes checking in at like 180 plus. Times when I really had to hang on hard. Times when I thought the frickin' rope was gonna slice me in two.
Ever get your brake hand mashed into a corner while catching/holding with a hip belay?
Hip belays and swamis.
PS Glad you're still with us Chappy.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Remember in the late 1980s that the left side of Arch Rock was a lot of fun, especially in February. Went up there and did "The Bin" (5.10d OW) with Greg Murphy and then went back and repeated it quite a few times. The crawl through the cave filled with bat guano at the top wasn't too enjoyable, but the overhanging OW to get there was terrific. Nice orange rock.
Then, Elliot Robinson got into the act & did SAT and GRE, a pumping thin 5.12a and a great 5.11 OW roof just to the left of "The Bin".
What's wrong with the left side of Arch exactly? Does anyone ever go up there?
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Mimi
climber
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I don't think it's just Arch Rock. I think there's powerful good and bad juju in the Valley as a whole. My nickel's worth.
Yeah, really Mark. Good catch Bruce!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Nothing Bruce - I recall those climbs you mention looking really cool. A few bad things happened there and for a few people the place has taken on a mystique.
RE:" I think there's powerful good and bad juju in the Valley as a whole."
Native American burial ground juju. Strange sh#t - Yerian is a good one for those stories.
There's some weird energy around the theater, too.
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John Moosie
climber
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Sounds more like good juju then bad. Two hand saves keeping people from serious injury after heinous falls. Scary falls, no serious injuries= good juju in my book.
I tore my achilles tendon dancing in church with a 70 year old woman. I would trade a 150' fall that you walk away from for my torn up achilles tendon anyday. Might scare the bejeebus out of you, but he walked away.
Moosie
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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RE:
" Good thing Karine has such a hard head. "
someone had to say it
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Ray said: "Ah, good ol' hip belays." and I couldn't resist adding a graphic:
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