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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 03:11am PT
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totally kick ass thread bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 11:08am PT
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For you Grit lovers......
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 11:27am PT
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If I had time or money, I'd go back to the grit. I was there in April of some year 2001 maybe. I got rained on, snowed on, and was the only person at tthe crag most days, but everytime I did run into someone, they'd offer me a rope, and then once we were rained off, we'd go to the pub.
So I'm out there on a sunny day finally, and all of a sudden a lot of people show up. I get talking to these Welsh guys and they offer me a rope. So I rack up. Well, I've been trained by Yosemite, so I stack up both sides of my harness with cams. Those guys just started laughing and pointing to all their freinds "look at all those cams," ha ha ha.
They were good sports so they let head up the route to learn my lesson. What I thought would be nice parallel crack placements was all wavy with perfect spots for stoppers, oops.
Those climbs are short, but they pack a punch. The way those cliffs are all in a line is like a well organized J-tree.
Tom
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 13, 2008 - 12:10pm PT
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Nothing like rushing to finish the climb at dark and make the pub before last call.
I thought that's what would happen when I first hit the grit, but no, the loonies I was climbing with (Ken Wilson, Martin Boysen, and a crew of their friends) just hauled out camping lanterns, set them at the base, and continued climbing. That made it pretty dark at the tops of the routes, but none of them seemed to notice. Or care.
It was in early November, so the days were pretty short and the only way to climb in the evening was to accept the darkness, but still...
Madmen.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Nov 13, 2008 - 12:28pm PT
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Great seeing shots of all these “blokes” again, thanks for bumping. I remember fun days on Gritstone.
For kicks here I am taking a little wiper on “Profit of Doom”
That felt pretty darn thin if I remember right
What was the local Pub around there? The Moon?
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dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
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Nov 14, 2008 - 11:16am PT
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Livesy????Whats he ever done on Grit? The grit quote I like best is"Thats what he gets for messing with grit".Refering to a leading limestone climber who nearly had his foot torn off while attempting a grit testpiece. Ilove Grit .Nectar..Harvest,London Wall, Strapadichtomy,The Jackalope.John allen,The Stokes brothers,All classics.It doesn´t get any better.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Nov 14, 2008 - 11:28am PT
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I've already got plane tickets to visit family and to go climbing.
thank-you for the cool pix.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
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Nov 14, 2008 - 11:48am PT
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Does anybody have John Allen's contact info???? or Kiwi pal, Jeff Shrimpton?
Thanks much! -Bruce Adams
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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Nov 14, 2008 - 11:55am PT
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I will see if I can get my slides scanned from my Day on Grit.
Strapadichtomy...always loved that route name.Eventually I did a new route on some gritlike rock in Penna.My partner wanted to name it Ducksdeluxe,I have no idea why.
We settled on Strapaducktome...
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 14, 2008 - 11:56am PT
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Grrrrreatstone
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Nov 14, 2008 - 08:17pm PT
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Not exactly 1977, but not far off. About 1981. Jerry “if you don’t let go, you can’t fall off” Moffatt storming up White Wall, MIllstone Edge.
Rob Uttley on the nearby London Wall. Rob died on Annapurna, if memory serves.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nov 14, 2008 - 09:05pm PT
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I love those black-and-whites crunch.
Where are they from... your own?
Got anymore?
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Nov 14, 2008 - 09:54pm PT
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Rick A - Awesome photos of a beautiful climbing area. Some amazing stuff happens over there, and I thank you for bringing it to me!
Cheers
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Nov 15, 2008 - 09:03pm PT
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Rick of course is the man and one of rock climbing's best spirits. I too have great memories of gritstone climbs. I've often thought if I ever leave this country my first choice is Wales... I love those people, their little houses without central heating, good food, good friendship... I have a distant ancestor who slew the Prince of Wales and was knighted on the battlefield. Don't know what that has to do with anything... Maybe that I'm tied to the place somehow...
Pat
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 18, 2008 - 06:48pm PT
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The classic survey by Dave Cook from Mountain 26, March 1973. Inspiring, airy shots on classic toughs!
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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I did a UK tour in 1984, and gritstone was top of the trip.
Stanage, Robin Hood's Right Hand Buttress Direct (HS 4a):
Me starting on Browns '49 The Right Unconquerable (HVS 5a). Best climb ever. Had to laugh all the way - until the belly flopping finish!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Such delightfully pure climbing problems! Nice!
This ad ran for years. From Mountain 24.
And a couple of shots from the news section of Mountain 29.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Robin Hood's sure looks like fun!
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