Seeking info on the 1978 anchor-failure on The Nose

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pjschlick

Social climber
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Mar 10, 2014 - 11:39am PT
There was an article that was written up in the August 1978 Off Belay magazine if you want to know the details without filing an FOIA. Asking John Dill, ( who has been a great source of info), and Werner too is good, but that article was very instructive and clarifying. Someone went up there and rapped down the route and got a first hand idea about what happened. We talked to him in 1980. I believe it was Dolt, not Rohrer...
John, Jeff and John were engineer types, totally methodical, totally into safety and definitely careful. They knew better. It is a cautionary tale about being careful, not trusting one piece of equipment, whether fixed or placed. A heavy price to pay-
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