Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2007 - 01:30am PT
|
Roger- definitely not the same Fig. Ricky did the Mouth to Perhaps with your Fig. For easy identification the Big Fig looks just this fellow below bouldering in the Stronghold.
The Inner Passage is the great cleft that separates the main Rockfellow Dome from Chay Desa Tay (big windy rock in Apache) and the End Pinnacle. The passage is a technical sideways chimney for only a short section of its length with lots of magically flat walking amidst soaring walls.
An amazing route called Devoid chimneys up from one of the flat spots toward the north end. A full pitch of foot butt leads to a bolt belay where the chimney opens and belljars down again before becoming too wide. It is the only foot shoulder chimney in my experience and leads to a commitment to the Rockfellow side and sporadic protection until the other wall finally lobes out and comes back into reach. This photo shows the point of reconnection during the FA. This was the first major summit (via As The Wind Cries)in the Rockfellow Domes climbed without the involvement of Dave Baker. Fig and I returned to repeat Devoid with Dave to complete his Stronghold sweep.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2007 - 09:21pm PT
|
A topo I did of the Abra side of the Rockfellows a few years ago...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2007 - 09:35pm PT
|
Nice post SM. Have you done any guidebook illustration or is it mostly a creative outlet? Artwork is always appreciated. My father and sister are both career artists and art teachers. I am the oddball in my family, strangely enough. LOL
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2007 - 09:49pm PT
|
Steve, I did the second edition of Phoenix Rock, which I inherited from Jim W. Done a few other things here and there...
Here's another one I did a long time back for Cochise...
|
|
L
climber
The City of Lost Angels
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2007 - 09:58pm PT
|
Steve--Really nice historical TR and the photos are awesome. Loved the personality aspects of your climbing partners.
Steelmnkey--Two friends of mine did that "easy-looking" 5.6 route What's My Line last year.
In high winds.
They were literally crying as they kissed the ground afterwards, never expecting to have lived through the adventure.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2007 - 08:25am PT
|
Hey L - I know exactly what your friends were experiencing. The first time I ever hiked up to do WML, after scrambling up to the start, we didn't go up because of high wind. I think it tends to come through that pass anyway, but when it's really blowing, it's like being in a wind tunnel. Glad they were okay. I last did WML on Christmas Day, 2005 with my wife (her first visit to the Stronghold). It was a gorgeous, sunny day for us to be virtually alone with such an incredible place.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2007 - 11:57am PT
|
Climbing was demanding and dangerous enough back in the day that most of the active participants were what I like to call indelibles, outsized personalities. Arizona climbing history is not widely known but chocked full of such people. If you are interested check out Climbaz.com.
The wind is everything in the Stronghold with respect to ones climbing experience. High winds means high drama every time. If you are open to the perception, spirits are abundant here and I tend to view the wind as a mildly malevolent manifestation of their whim. A dead calm day up in the saddle is almost spooky!
Have you ever seen so many giant holds as the ones covering What's My Line? Rappel Rock on Mt. Lemmon comes close. Too bad you can't easily reach them or I would have soloed WML dozens of times at 5.6!
SM- I haven't climbed in Phoenix in ages or seen your guide. Looks like a quality effort if your artwork is any indication!
More pics and stories soon.
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2007 - 11:20pm PT
|
Steve,
Thanks for the Tr and pics. Great stuff. I hope to go down there sometime.
Zander
|
|
Mimi
climber
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2007 - 02:25am PT
|
That wind is for real. When Off White and I did Days of Future Passed, the wind was howling as we were topping out. I got the final face pitch and thought I'd get blown off. Some of those Bean Festers were shooting bottle rockets at me but I somehow didn't seem to notice.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2007 - 12:38pm PT
|
All this this talk of wind, domes and sunshine makes me homesick for the desert. As Jimi would say, "Rainy day, dream away. Ain't no use in gettin' uptight, just let it groove its own way. Lay back and dream on a rainy day." The brother should know those Seattle blues well.......
|
|
Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
|
|
bump for a good thread
|
|
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
|
|
Yeah, this is a good one. The stronghold is one of those sorta special places....
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
Nice retro-report Steve! Much appreciated, as usual.
Bean-fest is this weekend, down there.
I have stared at that beast...and shuddered.
Hope you got some entertainment from the "Lucky" thread.
Respectfully, Erik
|
|
Phantom Fugitive
Trad climber
Misery
|
|
Steve- missed this the first time around. Thanks MUCHO!
Abra was a major achievement for me when I did it- something I built up to by working through the grades in the stronghold, scaring myself silly- and only approached the base when I really felt ready. This was '96 I think?
Anyways, I arrive at the base and the first thing I see is a rusty old button-head with an attached rusty hanger right at the base of the wall. Gulp. I look at my buddy and he says "I guess that wind blows off more than just climbers". We tied in anyways.
An ultra classic in a mysterious, amazing place.
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
How in the hell do you transition from a widening foot-shoulder chimney. Jeebus...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2009 - 03:31pm PT
|
The invitation awaits the curious.....
I just found this classic Dave Baker shot of Gary Hervert leading the second ascent of the route in Bob Kerry's 97 Backcountry guide.
Rich Thompson is belaying and the loose, bowling ball bag sized block is visible at the end of the petering fingertip layback.
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2009 - 06:14pm PT
|
BUMP
so Steelmonkey can get his topo back up. Right now the link is to a pet supply domain camping outfit.
Cool Steve!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2009 - 11:40am PT
|
When the weather is a little warmer, you'll love it! It's a way of life!
|
|
east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
|
|
|
Jan 12, 2009 - 11:53am PT
|
once again murry "you are the man!" love the photos what a amazing place!
|
|
east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
|
|
|
Jan 12, 2009 - 11:53am PT
|
once again murry "you are the man!" love the photos what a amazing place!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!