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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Gee couchmeister, that's interesting stuff. I guess you could use two quick links with one on each chain and have something nice, with the added extra bearing surface and greater radius for your rope to run over.
They do sell SS QL and home depot has some pretty nice plated chain that is 3/8 and resists rust pretty well.
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Bovine
Social climber
flatlands
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Couchmaster,
He does have (2) points of connection. (1) at the end of the chain, previously described as a quicklink, then there are (2) quicklinks on the lower bolt w/o the chain (at equal height to the end of the quicklink on the chain thus providing the second point of attachment).
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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I would hope most of us are secure enough about our experience and knowledge not to have to feel insulted by "bringyourownTR". He means well, and makes an important point how incomplete and incorrect knowledge is spread throughout the climbing community. It drives me nuts to hear people yell off belay when they clip anchors to thread them, then a few minutes later want to be back on belay to lower, and apparantly a few deaths have occured through such miscommunication. As I often sport climb with less experienced friends, my favorite rig is chains with lowering links large enough so I can thread the rope, but still run the belay/lower through draws. Only the last climber actually lowers off the chains when the draws are removed.
Peter
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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After the FA of Touchstone the rangers objected to the rap slings visible. Soon I came up with the idea of rigging chains at the stations which blended in. After similar arrangements in Snow Canyon the idea seems to have caught on.
The trouble is people are just too damn stupid to use them properly.
They arrive and clip right into the rap links, then load them up with their crap, and then, when they decide to rap these Einsteins end up leaving bright rap slings threaded into the chains and anchors.
I'd like to see these bozos start getting tickets for littering.
Its totally unnecessary if people just used their brains.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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That "over and under" anchor system is ok if it is at the top of a one pitch affair, but if more than one climber needs to be stationed at the anchor it is a lot nicer to have the bolts laid out horizontally - all other factors allowing.
On topic, when I go sport climbing I see most people using their own draws at the anchor for tr's. Usualy just the last one up will lower. And didn't some Bishop local do some tests a few years ago and find that when pulled on with a climbing rope, and open shut with a groove in it from rope wear was actually stronger than a new one because the rope was held in place in the groove and didn't slide along and unroll the shut..?
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WBraun
climber
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Hey
I know that guy with the bosch.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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famous last words
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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COme come mow Ronbo, you don't REALLY expect people to start using their brains, now do you?
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Oh man, judging from the latest post on the "accident in Owens" thread, it looks like my gripe above about saying "off belay" while threading before lowering is the likely cause of this tragedy. I will endeavor to always offer unsolicited advice about clarifying communication when I so often witness it being done badly at the crags.
Say what you mean, mean what you say, be safe
Peter
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Considering that we all started as nOObs our numbers are quite remarkable.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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You know I've always been in the habit of discussing with my belayer/partner what one was going to do at the end of the climb (be it lowering off or rapping) BEFORE starting the climb. Communicating. I want to be prepared and know what I'll need to do and what gear I'll need to bring. Of course things can change once the anchor is reached - maybe it's worn, maybe something else is up.
I have a friend who had a habit of saying "off belay" when in reality she wasn't wanting to really be "off belay", but was clipped in to thread the anchor or chains to be lowered. It drove me nuts. I think I finally broke her of that habit.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Yeah Locker, no sh*t!!!
I basically just refused to take her off and then she'd realize what was up.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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"Don't be lazy, bring your own TR."
Do I have to clean up my room too?
Posting this thread on this website maybe wasn't a good idea after all? Learn from chairboy.
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Original Poster: Thanks.
I don't think you came across as an A-hole, and that post is definitely needed.
I've seen the worn grooves in the anchors in Owen's Gorge, and realized what caused them. And people should take your advice, if they don't already do it that way.
And I'd guess that there exists more than one lurker on this forum that doesn't post regularly because of the ignorant, extremely short-sighted, elitist way that your post was recieved and responded to.
Thanks for the public service announcement.
-Aaron
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
hither and yon
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OK. The original post is correct in its message.
Still damn funny to see something like that here and not on RC though.
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couchmaster
climber
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I'm use to seeing a version of one of these.
Thanks you all for the replies.
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WBraun
climber
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Make sure you buy/get pro rated chains for this type of application. In California they are CHP rated.
Also I've come across chain setups like this and some dufus used tiny quick links to attach them to the bolts.
Giant strong chain with miniature quick links connecting to the bolt hangers, like WTF is that all about?
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Marty Lewis
climber
Bishop, CA
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Did anybody notice that the super-duper anchors in the image both boil down to one welded ring. I don't know how many times I've come across giant expensive anchors that all come down to one point (sometimes a quick link or a rap ring). what's the deal? Anchors should always end in two or more points of attachment. Isn't that a basic concept of climbing anchors-if one fails you still live?
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Have you climbed in Europe, Marty? Giant glue-in anchors all coming down to one worn ring. Same folks think that any mechanical bolt is sketchy and only glue-ins are "good bolts." I really don't get it either.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Not so hard to fathom actually.
These are the folks that brought you russian roulette.
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