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elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
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Jan 24, 2007 - 05:48pm PT
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I think better technique for testing and rope clipping would eliminate almost all of the issues everyone is having.
Adj daisies rule, but you still need a fifi tight to your waist for a lot of things. Adj fifi's are a trinket I never found a use for, and I tried.
Adj daisies are key for jugging. I keep a metolius adj aider mallioned to each jug, notice the little hole on the bottom of a petzl jug? Whadda ya think that's for? Hmmmm....
Locking biner in the big hole to the adj daisy. Try it, you'll never go back.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jan 24, 2007 - 05:54pm PT
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I use Yates.
They're the bombdigity for jugging. I lead w/ them too, although I'd be better off to get braver with the old style. It just makes an insecure situation fee so secure sometimes when I haul myself up, never having to have slack in my system if I don't want. It also wastes heaps of time, tires out my arms, and keeps me lower in my steps than I am when forced to lead with loopy daisies. For getting around roofs, I'd be lost w/o them. I'd probably rig a pulley for myself!
But I like the buckle mechanism. It's easy to keep an eye on it. Nothing like forgetting about it and having the buckle let go when weighted...Weeee!
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Alan Doak
climber
boulder, co
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Jan 25, 2007 - 12:37pm PT
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To all those that say "Don't fall on your daisies.", great advice, but daisy falls have a name for a reason... because they happen. I've bounce tested pieces, only to have them fail before I can clip the rope into the previous piece. There's also the times that you're going a bit fast and don't spend the time bounce testing every piece, or maybe your hook shifts while you're about to clip the rope into that fatty bolt that your bottom daisy is attached to.
I don't see any reason for gear manufacturers to spec webbing that won't hold a considerable amount. I've taken a number of daisy falls on my spectra daisies, though I clip the biner into the second to last eye so that the bar tack ruptures instead of my giblets (hopefully). Don't get me wrong, adjustable daisies are great, I just haven't gotten around to getting a pair yet.
My question is: would you use 3mil accessory cord, or shoelaces for that matter, to do anything in climbing except add a loop to your knife or water bottle? No? So why would you jug, climb with or clip into an anchor with anything that has a rated strength of only 300lbs???
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tomtom
Social climber
Seattle, Wa
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Jan 25, 2007 - 01:51pm PT
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I use Metolius.
I prefer the speed and one handed operation of the Easy Daisies as compared to the Yates. I haven't tried the Fish.
Replacement webbing is available from Metolius for $5 each and I replace mine regularly.
YMMV.
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Skot433
Big Wall climber
Lakewood, CA
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What about the Allfrifi... ??
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crackfiend
climber
Springdale, Utah
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Petzl recently released a new adjustable daisy system called the Evolv Adjust that is pretty nice to use. I have used yates extensively over the years as well as the metolious sytem. I think this is a much better option to others out there. It is easy to extend, tighten up, uses dynamic rope, and has a cam that uses no teeth so there wont be the fuzzing you get with other daisies. check them out
http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/New/EVOLV-ADJUST#.Vg2wphNViko
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Very interesting. At $75 they are not cheap. I couldn't find any indication as to how easy they are to release under load. A major advantage that the Yates/Fish ones have over Metolious is the ability to lower out off of a piece. Anyone know?
Edit:
Review below, not very enlightening regarding release under load.
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15x/ms-ms-petzl-adjustable-lanyards
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Prod
Trad climber
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Kate Rutherford, Holdplease2, has a pretty cool set up using dynamic rope and Ushaba basics. Maybe 7mm cord?
I dumped the adjustable daisies and went back to regular daisies. It is a little more physical, but a hell of a lot faster.
Prod.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Doesn't Home Depot have some parts? Tie some ladders, and regular daisies while you're at it.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Ogden, Utah
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You got your Kate's mixed up, Prod. But, yeah... I'm totally with you on the adjustables. They are a total pain in the arse, not strong enough for their purpose and it just feels better to climb, rather than ratcheting yourself up a wall. Haha!!
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