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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Jan 19, 2007 - 01:20am PT
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VERY nice!!!
Awesome job guys and congrats. When was the last time it had an ascent? Dean Potter and Miles? I remember them telling me about it the day after..... with some pretty wide-eyed expressions.
DETails! OOOoaaahhh!!
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Trusty Rusty
Social climber
Tahoe area
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Jan 19, 2007 - 01:37am PT
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CF-
Attempted WT last July. . . ended up closng the Mountain Room and getin fined for snoring in the Meadows. Glad you pulled it off.
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cybele
Ice climber
finally, west of the Mississippi
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Jan 19, 2007 - 02:15am PT
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July?
Great job guys!
Anyone know how the party today fared?
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Scotty Brown
climber
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Jan 19, 2007 - 03:10am PT
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Hey y'all,
The ascent was ideal. 13 hours on route, 11 pitches, WI 5, 2000 ft. A fine line indeed.
View of pitches 3 and 4
Doug leading rock on pitch 3
Doug and Dave following pitch 4, Thin! WI 5
Dave Bengston following pitch 4
Doug Leading the "Ouray ice park pitch", Pitch 5, WI 4
Following pitch 6, WI 2
Doug on pitch 7, WI 4
Yup, we did the last three pitches in the dark.
The ice is in great shape. Dry and thin on the lower pitches and wet and fat above. It should stay in shape with the cold nights but the main thing to watch is the day time highs. Valley visitor center temps
Doug and Dave were awesome and we all had a great time! Thanks for viewing.
All photos by Scott Brown
California Alpine Guides
Info and conditions on the route: Scott@Californiaalpineguides.com
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Kartch
climber
belgrade, mt
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Jan 19, 2007 - 10:41am PT
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Is Bad Ass overused yet because if not. . . .
That's some fine climbing.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jan 19, 2007 - 10:49am PT
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Wow - really cool pics!
Nice. Great thread and great send.
Tom
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jan 19, 2007 - 11:28am PT
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way to go gents! wish we had ice and snow here this winter...
you wanna send some our way!
ks
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McC
Trad climber
Livermore Ca
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Jan 19, 2007 - 11:34am PT
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WOW! Congrats to Dave Bengsten, Doug Nidever and Scott Brown!! Looks like some exciting climbing.
Great to see the telephoto pics by Chris Falkenstein and those taken on the route. Thanks for trip report and all of the pictures!
Ammon asked who's climbed it most recently. Anyone know when Dean Potter and Miles climbed it? ... after 2/5/02? Here's a partial list of names of some who've done it and some dates.
1975 FA team: Mark Chapman and Kevin Worral (a fun TR from a Supertopo thread last month: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=294566&msg=294897
Jay Smith and Craig Reason
1/31/02 Peter Mayfield and Mike Shane (same thread - another fun TR: www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=294566&msg=294897 )
2/1/02 Richard Leversee, Dan McDevitt, and a 3rd (I'm blanking on the name)
2/2/02 Wade Suvan and Melanie Lerner - rapped off a couple of pitches before the top
2/5/02 Erik Sandelin and Bill McConachie (Leversee thought this might've been the 10th ascent; trip report on Erik's website http://medlem.spray.se/eriksandelin/ )
Who else has climbed it and when?
Way to go Dave, Doug, and Scott!
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Mick K
climber
Northern Sierra
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Jan 19, 2007 - 12:17pm PT
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WOW.
Those photos have goten me so pumped I'm going ice climbing tomorrow.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Jan 19, 2007 - 12:33pm PT
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Good job guys! The photos are great. Brings back some memories. Dale Bard and Ron Kauk did the second in Feb. of 78. Ed Barry and I did the third ascent immediately after. It was quite different than when Kev and I did the first. Our original ascent was done in quite warm conditions as the route was disintegrating. A truly inspired effort if I may say so. Conditions were much different in 78. There was a very heavy snowfall. The Valley floor had several feet of snow. The heavy snowfall built up on the routes ledge systems and supplied water to the lower pitches. This made for nice thick ice even down low. The ice was so good. Real thick and solid. I can't imagine it ever being in better condition than it was that year. I just had to go do it again!
The approach was murder though. I remember wallowing through snow that was at times chest deep when you punched through holes in the snow covered talus. Again great job guys on what has to be one of the most beautiful ice routes anywhere.
Chappy
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jan 19, 2007 - 01:43pm PT
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Man alive, it looks like the route is hardly there. Three guys on 11 pitches is remarkable, this coming from someone who hates the cold.
Superior effort in my book.
JL
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Jan 19, 2007 - 01:53pm PT
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Good job, lads! Looks like great climbing in thin conditions.
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Dragger
Mountain climber
Bay Area, CA
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Jan 19, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
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Yea Scotty & crew! You guys are awesome!
Carolyn
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Jan 19, 2007 - 04:13pm PT
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GNARLY!!! Very Cool guys!!
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G_Gnome
Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
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Jan 19, 2007 - 04:24pm PT
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Wow, one of the coolest lines and now it's yours. Congratulations!
I hope everyone on it today and this weekend a safe trip.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jan 19, 2007 - 05:06pm PT
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Good show, guys! Nice!
"Attempted WT last July. . ."
As a rock climb? Ice was LONG gone before then....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Jan 19, 2007 - 05:42pm PT
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mythical and heroic
cheers guys!
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elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
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Jan 19, 2007 - 05:51pm PT
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Proud!
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Jan 19, 2007 - 08:30pm PT
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Way to go Doug, Dave, and Steve! on some proud bold climbing. Great pics, looks very thin...
Miles and Dean Potter did it around 95 or 96 I think on what looked like mostly wet snow, Mike Shane and I were probably the next ascent then Richard Leversee, Dan Mcdivitt, and John Wasson the next day, I think it got one or two more ascents the following week. Don't think it froze up the last few years.
Peter
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