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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Mar 20, 2018 - 12:29pm PT
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Wow! Love old guides, especially Gunks where there is such a rich history.
My first trip to Yosemite was with Will Crowther and a Sierra Club group from Palo Alto. Crowther sent us directly to the Royal Arches that day.
He worked at the now famous Xerox PARC lab which created much of the computer technology we use today.
I also knew him from MIT Outing Club. His Quincy Quarries route, Willy's Walk was a rite of passage on a really nice piece of rock.
I am not too aware of his activities in the Gunks.
But the MIT folks had a tradition for recording and codifying anything and everything...
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Mar 20, 2018 - 01:47pm PT
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FYI, I do have a Fine++ copy of the Gran Guide with original dust jacket (this guide sadly never made it to the crags, but fortunately for us, it sat on the bookshelf for 54 years).
While nice VG-Fine copies are going for $300 or so, the one on MP seems a little high priced for being in such "used" shape.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 20, 2018 - 08:40pm PT
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Rich- Please post the Wiessner guide here.
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Kligfield
Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2018 - 08:42pm PT
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I'll post the Wiessner guide tomorrow.
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the idle rich
climber
Estes Park, CO
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Mar 20, 2018 - 09:24pm PT
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Beat you to it Roy.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 20, 2018 - 09:56pm PT
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An excellent description of the thing that gave the route Froghead its name which has long been a mystery.
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TradEddie
Trad climber
Philadelphia, PA
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Mar 21, 2018 - 08:28am PT
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Thanks to all for posting these. I'm especially impressed by that Crowther sketch, beautiful drawn and clearer than any photograph I've ever tried to follow.
Hopefully the snow will end soon...
TE
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Mar 21, 2018 - 12:23pm PT
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Among the various routes mentioned by Fritz, a few have had name changes or have disappeared. One of the interesting ones to me is a route at Millbrook he called "Falcon," described as 250 feet North of the Old Route. I think that is a fairly demanding part of the cliff with a half-dozen 5.10 and above routes and but a single (I think rather burly) 5.9 route (Realm of the Fifth-Class Climber). Although Fritz was probably capable of doing Realm, he hadn't climbed at that level since coming to the US and if he had done it, I think there would have been a huge buzz about it at the time.
So it seems to me that the only possibility in that section that Fritz might have climbed would be Realm up to the beginning of the crux leaning dihedral, a short traverse left to Instant Karma (but I don't know how hard that section is; somewhere on Instant Karma, I think at the top roofs, there is some 5.12), and then back right to Realm at the top of its crux dihedral. That would amount to some bold and clever routefinding through rock that has since taxed climbers at a much higher level.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Mar 21, 2018 - 12:53pm PT
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Incredible. I have the Art Gran book. Love the drawings; works of art.
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Kligfield
Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2018 - 01:46pm PT
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Rich, Rich and Al: send me your emails. r.kligfield@comcast.net
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Steven Amter
climber
Washington, DC
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Mar 21, 2018 - 03:13pm PT
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This is spectacular stuff. Thanks for posting!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Mar 21, 2018 - 03:27pm PT
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Incredible. I have the Art Gran book. Love the drawings; works of art.
I don't know whether the Gran guidebook is a work of art, but it is most certainly a work of Art.
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the idle rich
climber
Estes Park, CO
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Mar 21, 2018 - 05:46pm PT
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Though you can learn something from it, don't take it for Gran ed.
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DanaB
climber
CO
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Mar 21, 2018 - 06:24pm PT
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Though you can learn something from it, don't take it for Gran ed.
We know who you are - The Jug is Up.
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Don Paul
Gym climber
Denver CO
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Mar 21, 2018 - 06:47pm PT
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That must have been a great moment when Fritz Weisner discovered the Shawangunks glimmering on the horizon. And just a stone's throw away from New York City. Still no better place to learn how to climb, and learn important climbing values, like fear. (lol)
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Kligfield
Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2018 - 11:58am PT
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Here are the full set of pages from the Dave Ingalls "CLIMBING LIST OF THE SHAWANGUNKS" with 3/27/62 date.
Page 1
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Kligfield
Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2018 - 12:00pm PT
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Ingalls p. 2
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Kligfield
Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2018 - 12:00pm PT
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