Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2017 - 08:47am PT
|
Yeah, #MoiAussi.
Terry's absolutely right, the parvenu MooseNoob just doesn't get it yet.
When I had a good nut, it FELT good.
|
|
TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2017 - 09:20am PT
|
Moose:
No. No. No.
Did you step up to the plate and agree to learn something?
No you did not!
Accept my offer straight up - or admit you are a coward!
You don't want to learn from your elder and better. You only propose a ridiculous test to prove your own superiority!
You are stuck in your insolent and obstinate ways!
Youthful arrogance knows no bounds.
But I will meet up to climb with you anyway. Perhaps if I choose the climb, I could even beat you at your own test of competence versus speed. Take that you swinehund!
P.S. I detect the perfidity of your offer. You want me to lead the route first, while you follow. THEN you propose you could lead it faster with cams. In other words, you want me to do an ONSIGHT, ALL FREE versus your PINKPOINT HANGDOG WITH THOSE CHEAPING CAMS!
|
|
zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2017 - 09:28am PT
|
I still have Hexes, but haven’t placed one since the early eighties, which is when I got my first Friend.
|
|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2017 - 09:31am PT
|
Getcher hot buttered popcorn!
PeaNUTS!
Cotton CANDY-ASS n00b gonna get it handed to him!
A few years back, Ms. Sibylle Hechtel, famous female first-ascensionist of El Cap, told me she really only climbs using Stoppers for pro anymore.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2017 - 09:38am PT
|
Who in their right mind would go on a serious climb without some small wired stoppers?
6 wired stoppers weigh, what, a pound?
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2017 - 10:58am PT
|
Well, my friend, you know I admire a man of principles.
But you can't yard on principles.
|
|
dh
climber
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2017 - 11:00am PT
|
Let's not forget the financial angle. Learning to climb in grad school days, nuts were CHEAP. Cams (mid-90s) were STEEP. Plus, booty nuts were everywhere.
It was easy to do the math.
|
|
norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2017 - 11:51am PT
|
Everyone is different. I like doing long new routes, they don’t always go. I’ve left stoppers all over the Wind Rivers. Only once did I leave a cam retreating from lightning.
Like Reilly said why would you go on a long route without nuts.
To me nuts have always been an essential part of my rack. It's what I learned to climb with in the 70's.
Like I said above. We are all different. If you want to bail off cams I’m fine with that. Especially when I find them.
|
|
Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2017 - 12:08pm PT
|
I always bring an assortment of nuts on long routes but mainly for the purpose of bailing or lining hangers bolts. For long Sierra moderates my go to are cams because i want to move fast and don't want myself or my partner picking around trying to either place a nut or retrieve a nut. I know how to place nuts, when I started climbing cams were not a thing yet, I am good at nut craft and natural anchors but I still prefer cams over nuts for ease and speed. I don't need to pound my chest and prove I'm a tradster.
|
|
johntp
Trad climber
socal
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2017 - 01:55pm PT
|
Stoppers are an essential part of the rack. I do like the small cams out there, but a well placed nut is comforting. Hexes and tri-cams are another story. Placing them is an acquired art.
edit: like batrock, I grew up pre-cam. Took me some time to feel comfortable with friends and their walking.
|
|
Slym
climber
Merced, CA
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2017 - 02:26pm PT
|
Well, my friend, you know I admire a man of principles.
But you can't yard on principles.
Quoted for posterity.
|
|
DanaB
climber
CT
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2017 - 02:47pm PT
|
Whatever works quickly, effectively, and efficiently.
|
|
mareko
Trad climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2017 - 02:49pm PT
|
I always have a set on nuts. They're bomber and a great alternative when you don't what waste a cam on a long pitch
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2017 - 04:07pm PT
|
Have spring loaded camming devices replaced nuts?
Only a nut would think so...
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2017 - 07:00pm PT
|
rgold and batrock captured my sentiments.
I don't dick around for a nut placement when a cam is easy, but I'll take the easy nut in a constriction to conserve gear and save the more flexible cams for whatever lies ahead. And it's less of an emotional thing to bail off of a nut or two than a cam!
|
|
TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2017 - 09:25pm PT
|
Did TWP bag a moose?
Or did Honey bag a mouse?
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Dec 18, 2017 - 09:47pm PT
|
The things I climb, are not that demanding.
That's no reason to go under-prepared. As Fritz would say "Schist happens."
If you suddenly have to set up a belay or bail and yer staring at a 1/4"
crack yer suddenly in a world of hurt. You have insurance for yer car,
why not a little insurance for yer azz?
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2017 - 08:27am PT
|
What Donini said.
The first people I saw climbing sans nuts weren't noobs, it was the folks setting speed records on El cap and high level young guns.
|
|
rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
|
|
|
Dec 19, 2017 - 10:35am PT
|
The well-known granite-centricity of the SuperTopo demographic probably figures into this discussion, with the growing number of bolted belays perhaps skewing the all-cam perspective even more. (Do you really want to burn up 4--6 cams just on belay anchors, or will you opt for the Donini Blue Camalot gambit to keep consumption reasonable?)
For a contrasting example where people regularly encounter wandering features and discontinuous cracks and seem to be more likely set up their own belay anchors, a 1.5 or double rack of nuts is still pretty common in the UK.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!