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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Aug 16, 2017 - 08:37pm PT
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 16, 2017 - 09:03pm PT
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"With all due respect Chief, considering you don't seem to understand the generally held meanings of and differences between an onsight and a flash, i'd suggest your quibbling is mistaken."
That's an interesting statement.
I was always under the impression that on sight meant you had at best, never seen the pitch before.
After that it's increments of prior knowledge.
Peter's first try flash of the Shadow set a new standard in Squamish free climbing and was probably as impressive a lead as had been done anywhere at that time.
I think he'd agree he'd looked at the main corner, multiple times from a couple meters away and had a pretty good idea about what was and wasn't there.
I saw him and Geoff the day they climbed it and talked to Peter about it later.
He told me his calves and butt cheeks were sore for days.
I never heard him refer to his effort as an on sight.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 16, 2017 - 09:09pm PT
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"With all due respect Chief, considering you don't seem to understand the generally held meanings of and differences between an onsight and a flash, i'd suggest your quibbling is mistaken."
Yeah, Perry, since you don't know anything about climbing, how can anyone take your posts seriously?
God damn, Supertopo is a funny place.
Hope to see you on Psyche Ledge.
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ec
climber
ca
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Aug 16, 2017 - 09:32pm PT
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My bad. Honnold only soloed the Uwall.
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ec
climber
ca
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Aug 16, 2017 - 09:35pm PT
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Bad Climber wrote,
" I think, for example, Reardon's on-sight solo of Romantic Warrior is perhaps the greatest rock climbing feat of all time".
Would have been if it actually happened.
HaHa...the FA of Romantic Warrior was a true 'on sight' as we never, ever had even been to the base. I saw the 'line' from Dome Rock and 'assumed' there was something worthwhile there. Now, THAT actually happened.
 ec
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Empellerin
Trad climber
Repentigny
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Aug 22, 2018 - 09:30am PT
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Here's a little update: I onsighted The Shadow 2 weeks ago with absolutely no info about the route. I was going for Uwall, but when I stood at the base of that pitch, my partner mentioned this was the famous Shadow pitch... so I thought, why not give it a try!?? :) After nearly an hour of burning, twitching calves, I managed to hit that final jog! F*** YEAH!!!
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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Aug 22, 2018 - 09:43am PT
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badass. nice work!
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Aug 22, 2018 - 10:15am PT
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Nice work - but kind of looks like you have a thin and pre-sorted rack on your harness and placements below are at tick marks - like you had very detailed gear beta.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Aug 22, 2018 - 10:30am PT
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Rad send Empellerin. Glad you posted up. A stellar feat for sure. Welcome to Supertopo where there's a good chance you'll be roasted, slandered, congratulated and flattered all in one day. This thread could easily disintegrate into a fist-fight regarding the exact definition of an onsight, but I always thought an onsight meant
"Walking up to a route with no prior knowledge of the route and sending, ground up, from bottom to top."
That means to claim an onsight means you
1. Have never seen a topo
2. Haven't seen a gear list
3. Have no real prior deal breaker beta beta
If you have any of these its not really an onsight. Is this pretty much consensus? Am I right or missing something? Maybe there are no real rules and all that matters is that you have fun but hold "Onsight" as a pretty sacred thing. Anybody else want to chime in on this? Who cares really but it sure is fun to argue about around campfires and the interwebs!
Again, fantastic send. Stay stoked and keep posting up!
Scott
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crøtch
climber
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Aug 22, 2018 - 10:36am PT
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JLP wrote:Nice work - but kind of looks like you have a thin and pre-sorted rack on your harness and placements below are at tick marks - like you had very detailed gear beta.
I saw people working the Shadow last week and they likely placed the ticks seen in the photo. And when you are standing at the base of an obvious finger crack, why bring the big gear?
Sounds like a great achievement.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 22, 2018 - 10:45am PT
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Well done Empellerin, very cool.
I'm curious about the photo. Did you have a "preplaced" photographer, or did someone from another unrelated party take the great shot? Spectacular either way.
I was surprised to read upthread that at one time there had been fixed pins on the Shadow pitch. These were not left by the FA party, and were added later.
I was also disappointed to read that climbers are now top roping/flailing/projecting on the Shadow pitch, and polishing the rock. I have always thought that if you cannot do a pitch, then you should go away and practice on climbs that you can do, and come back when your skills are higher. Preserving the nature of the rock should be more important than someone's ego.
The true line of UWall follows the Shadow pitch, and also finishes up the Roman Chimneys. Anything less is, well, something less.
Rant over!
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Aug 22, 2018 - 11:00am PT
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Tick marks combined with the rather detailed and sequentially listed gear on MP.com would make the climb a different beast.
It's still impressive as a flash. It is what it is. All the hard and classic climbs these days are in this condition - hordes of suitors.
She may have nailed the rack, too. To have that little gear left on her harness, with possibly a few pieces with a draw attached, takes some experience.
However, you can't say "absolutely no info" if you used the MP.com list.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Aug 22, 2018 - 11:08am PT
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Excellent!
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Rocky IV
Social climber
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Aug 22, 2018 - 11:15am PT
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ha, grumbles from the old 5.9 climbers...
Peter probably had loads of fixed pins to clip, making it a sport pitch. There have always been strong climbers. I bet if you asked Peter he'd say he doesn't really care one way or the other.
Get out there and enjoy the few years you have left!
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 22, 2018 - 11:18am PT
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Yep exactly ^^^^^
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Nutty
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Aug 22, 2018 - 11:38am PT
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Spectacular route and send Emilie, cheers!
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Aug 22, 2018 - 12:58pm PT
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Thanks for posting, Emilie. Awesome send!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 22, 2018 - 03:48pm PT
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Shore is a purdy corner! Gorgeous shot of Empellerin on it.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Aug 22, 2018 - 04:48pm PT
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Sorry, Hamish - we may have left a fixed pin or two when we nailed it, and there may well have been a few already there. (All removed over the years since.) But I agree with your general sentiments as to style.
(Two of the four who did the first ascent of University Wall sometimes post here.)
Delighted that what seems to be the second free ascent was also by a Canadian - and a female at that.
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