An evening with Kris Solem and the new Needles Guidebook

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guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 1, 2017 - 05:45pm PT
Thats 85% of it... Voodo Dome is just showing a little bit of one side, on the right side of that shot.

Its even more impressive when viewed in real life, from the lower road at Needlerock creek.

You must make the trip.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Mar 1, 2017 - 08:09pm PT
The Season? Late spring through fall?
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 1, 2017 - 08:27pm PT
Depends on the year. This is a big snow year so the gate on the dirt road could be closed 'till June. If you hike the road it's about three miles to camping and another two or less to the crags...

Here's the classic shot from Dome Rock hundreds of people have taken, shows the full extent from a distance.

nathanael

climber
CA
Mar 1, 2017 - 09:23pm PT
Last year was pretty dry and the gate was still closed till June 1
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 1, 2017 - 10:16pm PT
Last year was pretty dry and the gate was still closed till June 1

Yeah I know. Don't get me started about that :-)
craig morris

Trad climber
la
Mar 2, 2017 - 09:05am PT
looking forward to Northridge
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 2, 2017 - 09:31am PT
Hi Craig. Damn, we have some catching up to do!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 2, 2017 - 09:35am PT
Last year was pretty dry and the gate was still closed till June 1

Yes don't get me started.... At one time we were able to climb on Voodo as soon as the snow melted out, from the much lower, south facing road... dry years meant early March... But for $$$$$ reasons the FS can't send one person out to chop up any down trees or move any rocks off of the road so we, and other out door users, can't enjoy the boating, fishing and camping located out at the Forks of the Kern. By June its way to hot to go and climb all the excellent multi-pitch climbs found at Voodo... Very Lame IMHO.

Several people have volunteered equipment and labor to go do this for them...... but all efforts have been given a firm NO.

Its about time to start calling the two FS offices every day and asking the question... When is this road going to open up?

and be sure to write your congressman-- early and often.



Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Mar 2, 2017 - 09:50am PT
Looks like great shows. Wish I could catch one. And that book! Lots of folks been waiting for that. It drives me crazy when OUR gov't won't allow us access to OUR land--or even let us fix it up to make it possible. Land of the Free? Yeah, right.

BAd
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 2, 2017 - 12:08pm PT
Snow depth at Quaking Aspen CG is 75" according to CA Dept of water rescources. QA is 1 mile from the Needles road... Pretty rad...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 2, 2017 - 07:42pm PT
AP from Calgary said:
Looks like some of the cleanest rock in the universe
If you are a connoisseur of granite, this place is an absolute must visit. And do it while mind and body are still relatively strong and elastic. The climbs are steep, technical, and generally demand a high standard of style and execution from the applicant!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 2, 2017 - 09:29pm PT
Roy, you have a gift with words. It's an honor to have your contributions in my book. Seriously, your remarks about Liquid Sky and Duty Now for the Future are highlights of the whole project for me.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Cali
Mar 3, 2017 - 09:03am PT
I'll second Kris' sentiment. We really do appreciate your wordsmithing Roy.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 3, 2017 - 05:21pm PT
Thanks, fellas.
The guidebook is looking really good, Kris! Just went through it cover to cover the other day.

One of my favorite photos is the Greg Epperson shot on page 137 of Kevin Daniels and Rico Miledi in, not on, The Nautilus.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 3, 2017 - 06:38pm PT
Dumb question from someone who has never been there.
Is that group of rocks in the first photo the full extent of the Needles?
Looks like some of the cleanest rock in the universe

In 40 years of climbing all over North America, this is the single best cragging area I've ever climbed in.

My biggest climbing regret is that I didn't get to the Needles sooner. It's an incredible place, and I'm sorta pissed that Kris isn't bringing his show to Seattle. But if you love climbing... Go there.

Here's a TR I posted after my visit

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=704406&msg=704406#msg704406
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
Mar 3, 2017 - 06:55pm PT
Yeah Kris, bring that show to Tahoe. Is there a gate or can the public go in there and clear the trees?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 3, 2017 - 07:08pm PT
Rumour has it that a total of three loose rocks have ever been found there.
Yinzer

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Mar 3, 2017 - 08:24pm PT
I have to agree the length / time of the closures is excessive and unnecessary. The roads are usually in fine shape and with climate change... it's an absolute cook-fest most of the time during the months they are 'open'.

sounds like the top-entrance gate might be the perfect candidate for a ski-tour in to dry-rock send in the next few months. I've heard stories of people mountain-biking in on the lower-road (far!!) but I absolutely love the rock quality and calm fishbowl-like-setting of the surrounding ridges and where the formations sit.

Last I called in december to check on the roads, I think I got a number about who (tulare county officials?) specifically does the gate-openings. If we all keep kindly recommending, it's possible that a new open of may 1 could happen eventually..

Excited for this book show!!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Mar 4, 2017 - 07:44am PT
Cool. I've been eagerly awaiting the guide. Thanks for all the hard work Kris.

I'll be lurking in the SF valley on the 15th so I'll be able to make it to Northridge. Yay!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 4, 2017 - 08:09am PT
Kris..... ya gotta take the show on the road... Seattle, Portland, Bosie, Tahoe,Denver, Bolder and beyond....... the world demands satisfaction.



Yintzer... X-country skiing in the top way.... this year. The lower road melts out all on its own.... its a 12 mile bike ride to Needlerock creek.

I know of a few climbers who ride in with camping gear and get some great climbing on Voodo.


See ya at the show.
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