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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Dec 18, 2006 - 09:16am PT
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superb stuff, gents. thx...
cool scan, mentions the FA of one of my val faves, "The Enema"...
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Dec 18, 2006 - 12:57pm PT
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Kev,Peter, et al,
I will chime in soon with some thoughts soon (super busy the next few days). I will say this: Kevin's lead of the crux pitch was a masterful display of climbing. I remember having a desperate time of it just following. I also remember wandering back towards Camp 4 in the middle of the night, the roads deserted, my boots soaking wet. Cold, tired, yet also elated. When we passed Bridalviel Falls an odd warm wind blew. Definetly an altered state of reality. It was a great feeling when, at last, a car passed and the guy actualy picked us up. The adventure was finally over. Also our ascent was in mid February not March and it was quite warm. Lynda was watching with binoculars from the sunny south facing side of the Valley near Little Wing and knowing her she probably was sun bathing. My photos are in the Valley. Hopefully I will get up there before Christmas and can post some soon.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Dec 18, 2006 - 01:30pm PT
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Fantastic reports on both ascents (Kevin and Peter.) It is really cool to get a first hand acount of this ledgendary first ascent from kevin and Mark. It absolutely shows the true spirit of adventure our sport has to offer. I too like Fosberg droped everything and raced to the valley last year, with hopes of an ascent. Not enough sack for the amount of what little melting ice there was, thwarted our efforts at the base. "It looked good from far, but was far from good"
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james Colborn
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Dec 20, 2006 - 09:11pm PT
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Peter Awesome stuff. As you know the past few days have been brutal cold and I HAVE BEEN WORKING OUT DOORS! Not Climbing. Low motivation for work and thinking only of ice because of the freezing snot forming off my snout. Thanks for the photos and TR. Peter you are the most unassuming badass I know. Mild mannered and cool as can be. I know you got more of this type of stuff tucked away somewhere, any chance of sharing more? Take care, happy merry. James
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Dec 20, 2006 - 09:44pm PT
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" junk food in the vending machines at the Lodge at 3AM"
how many times has this 'technique' come in handy for climbers?
a water spigot seems like fountain of health sometimes too.
rad TR, thx.
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pieter
Sport climber
Belgium
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Feb 26, 2009 - 02:58pm PT
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bump
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 26, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
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Yeah, bump this trip. I remember you (Peter) sharing this story at Snowshed.
Nice to hear it again.
Hope you are well!
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 10:47am PT
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Bump cause ice is on the mind...
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:42am PT
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skating on stilts
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
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Bump, cause ice is on the mind...and congrats to Jason and Greg!
Peter
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Bump for photos of frozen ice without the drama.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!