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Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2017 - 01:24am PT
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Good Morning Everyone, other information on the legendary climb METANOIA (Eiger North Face) of the LEGENDARY JEFF LOWE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CHAPEAU to Mr. LOWE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Many Greetings.
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web16a/wfeature-1991-jeff-lowe-metanoia
Here's an excerpt from Alpinist 41 by Jeff Lowe himself about doing the first ascent of Metanoia (VII 5.10 M6 A4, 1800m) on the Eiger North Face during February snowstorms in 1991. The route was recently climbed for the first time since then (see story at Alpinist.com). Jeff Lowe's Metanoia
http://www.alpinist.com/…/…/wfeature-1991-jeff-lowe-metanoia
Ecco un estratto da alpinista 41 da Jeff Lowe se stesso di fare la prima ascesa del metanoia (VII 5.10 M6 A4, 1800 m) sulla parete nord dell'eiger tormente di neve nel corso del mese di febbraio, nel 1991., il percorso è stato recentemente Scalato per la prima volta da allora (vedi la storia a alpinista. Com). Jeff Lowe's Metanoia
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web16a/wfeature-1991-jeff-lowe-metanoia
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 12, 2017 - 08:54am PT
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The peanut gallery docks them style points for not starting at the base on their successful ascent of the upper half of the wall.
I have consulted with the Grand Poobah of the Upper Butt Crack, and it is so.
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couchmaster
climber
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Jan 12, 2017 - 10:15am PT
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^^ So you are suggesting that the first sit start FA still awaits? :-)
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smith curry
climber
nashville,TN
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Jan 19, 2017 - 01:20pm PT
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yup... I didn't wanna be the first to gripe (esp as these guys were super respectful of Jeff's style and vision) but seemed a very different way to approach the climb---Keep bailing due to weather, start from the window etc...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 19, 2017 - 04:10pm PT
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I'm not aware of a single repeat attempt solo.
People sprint up the lower part of this route these days so claiming a second ascent starting from the window with "aid lines" in place seems a bit of a stretch to me too.
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Ed Webster
climber
beautiful Maine
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Jan 19, 2017 - 06:55pm PT
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Jeff Lowe's 1991 solo first ascent of Metanoia, in winter, up the Eiger's North Face, climbed without bringing a bolt kit, set the Alpine ethical bar about as high as it's ever been. As a result, Metanoia will always stand out as an exceptional and visionary route with a storied and unique history. So.... in my opinion, in order to rightfully claim the second ascent of Metanoia, the climbers involved must equal, or very closely match, the purity of the ethics Jeff Lowe consciously used during his 1991 first ascent.
I don't speak out on ethical issues very often, but this claimed first repeat of Metanoia has rankled me. I do not think this trio made the "true" second ascent of Metanoia, for several reasons:
1. They never accomplished a COMPLETE ground-to-summit, single-push ascent.
2. They had a team of three, which was either one, or two, climbers too many, compared to Jeff's solo ascent. A team of two.... well, okay. That's realistic. But a Team of Three ? TOO BIG.
3. Why was a 3-man team too large ? Because it significantly lessened the commitment level they faced on Metanoia. And, I'd like to ask, did any single one of the three climbers actually climb the ENTIRE route — like Jeff did ? Or did they each jumar several, or many, of the individual pitches ?
3. They also brought a bolt kit on at least one of their three attempts. And they PLACED an 8mm bolt for a belay anchor. Read the full descriptions of their three separate efforts.
4. Finally they also acknowledged clipping a pre-existing bolt ( which was obviously not placed by Jeff Lowe, nor used by him ) on another pitch.
5. Jeff Lowe did not bring a bolt kit on Metanoia, and he placed no bolts. Ethically, stylistically, and historically, this was Jeff Lowe's loud Statement, his acknowledgement of the efforts of the pioneers of Alpinism. These three climbers DID bring a bolt kit on the route ... AND they placed a bolt.
Given these facts, how can they possibly claim the second ascent of Metanoia ?
I don't think they can. No personal offense intended — but their ethics did not come close enough to equalling Jeff's.
___
Here's a picture I took of Jeff Lowe in 1991, one week after he had completed Metanoia.
The expression on his face says it all : " I just did the biggest climb of my life. "
Heartfelt congratulations, Jeff. very sincerely, Ed Webster
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 19, 2017 - 08:01pm PT
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Very well stated, Maestro Webster.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Jan 19, 2017 - 09:27pm PT
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Hi, Ed! A photo of mutual friends, from January 2015.
At Klatreverket in Oslo.
An interesting conundrum is whether any second ascent party can have the same experience as the first - even if equipment, conditions, and skills are the same, they know the way.
The major change from 1991 - 2006 may be equipment (boots, clothing, ice tools), and mixed climbing technique.
Ed: Facebook tells me that you're speaking on Tuesday in Montreal. Have fun!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jan 20, 2017 - 06:29am PT
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Those guys are awesome climbers and athletes, for sure, but I'm with Ed and the others with concerns over style here, especially starting from the Window on the final "repeat." If I try the Salathe a bunch of times, regularly bailing from the lower half of the route, do I still get credit for a repeat if SAR drops me off at Heart Ledge? Even if I've done Free Blast a bunch of times, I couldn't in good conscience claim a full ascent.
My 2 cents from the BAd Climbers peanut gallery.
BAd
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Cascade Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Jan 23, 2017 - 10:52pm PT
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bump
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 24, 2017 - 06:36am PT
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I'm glad to see that others have had the same concerns about this.
Do you think these men know in their heart of hearts that they came up short?
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Jan 24, 2017 - 04:49pm PT
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interesting discussion. assuming (and I totally believe this to be the case) that what ed said was true, a bolt was placed and they started from the window. definitely, the second "ascent" while performed by talented and i am sure great guys, did in fact fall short of jeff's ascent. facts, matter. otherwise we will be talking about alternative facts like what trump gives out.
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Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2017 - 05:32am PT
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I apologize for the rough translation
Good morning Mr. Ed Webster (let me call YOU MASTER) You have made an excellent disquisition on this climb, a legendary climb of the legendary Very Great JEFF LOWE: I agree with YOU on His answer, without detracting from the 3 major climbers Huber- Siegrist and Schaeli, nothing to say, however, climbing Jeff Lowe is another thing, he is the Great LOWE started from the base of the wall, and only came to the toe (just never retire from Stollenloch and then back again and again (get on and off, going home to rest and then back up) So, without taking anything away from these 3 great climbers, what did the legendary JEFF LOWE is unmatched, remains one of the greatest masterpieces in 'mountaineering of all time, and then we say together to the Great LOWE:
CHAPEAU !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Master Ed Webster Dicit :
""""""""""""""""Jeff Lowe's 1991 solo first ascent of Metanoia, in winter, up the Eiger's North Face, climbed without bringing a bolt kit, set the Alpine ethical bar about as high as it's ever been. As a result, Metanoia will always stand out as an exceptional and visionary route with a storied and unique history. So.... in my opinion, in order to rightfully claim the second ascent of Metanoia, the climbers involved must equal, or very closely match, the purity of the ethics Jeff Lowe consciously used during his 1991 first ascent.
I don't speak out on ethical issues very often, but this claimed first repeat of Metanoia has rankled me. I do not think this trio made the "true" second ascent of Metanoia, for several reasons:
1. They never accomplished a COMPLETE ground-to-summit, single-push ascent.
2. They had a team of three, which was either one, or two, climbers too many, compared to Jeff's solo ascent. A team of two.... well, okay. That's realistic. But a Team of Three ? TOO BIG.
3. Why was a 3-man team too large ? Because it significantly lessened the commitment level they faced on Metanoia. And, I'd like to ask, did any single one of the three climbers actually climb the ENTIRE route — like Jeff did ? Or did they each jumar several, or many, of the individual pitches ?
3. They also brought a bolt kit on at least one of their three attempts. And they PLACED an 8mm bolt for a belay anchor. Read the full descriptions of their three separate efforts.
4. Finally they also acknowledged clipping a pre-existing bolt ( which was obviously not placed by Jeff Lowe, nor used by him ) on another pitch.
5. Jeff Lowe did not bring a bolt kit on Metanoia, and he placed no bolts. Ethically, stylistically, and historically, this was Jeff Lowe's loud Statement, his acknowledgement of the efforts of the pioneers of Alpinism. These three climbers DID bring a bolt kit on the route ... AND they placed a bolt.
Given these facts, how can they possibly claim the second ascent of Metanoia ?
I don't think they can. No personal offense intended — but their ethics did not come close enough to equalling Jeff's.
___
Here's a picture I took of Jeff Lowe in 1991, one week after he had completed Metanoia.
The expression on his face says it all : " I just did the biggest climb of my life. "
Heartfelt congratulations, Jeff. very sincerely, Ed Webster"""""""""""""""""""
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Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2017 - 12:10am PT
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Good Morning to All.
VIDEO - Metanoia Repeated by Huber, Siegrist and Schaeli
by Natalie Berry - UKC 03/Feb/2017
This news story has been read 2,741 times
We recently reported that Jeff Lowe's route Metanoia on the Eiger North Face in Switzerland had seen its first repeat by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli, 25 years after Jeff's legendary solo ascent (UKC News report
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/70930/video_-_metanoia_repeated_by_huber_siegrist_and_schaeli
Greetings.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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On the way to Latok 1 in 1978 there was much discussion about style and tactics. We were embarking into the unknown. Bolts were a lively topic of conversation...we brought some with us along with a hand drill.
Jeff was against bringing them on the climb and his arguments won out. I don't recall missing not having them.
Jeff has always been a pioneer who was always way ahead of the curve.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Aug 30, 2018 - 08:33pm PT
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Any additional history of this route?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 31, 2018 - 09:36am PT
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METANOIA: signed topo and route description, hard copies furnished by Jeff Lowe.
There is also a chapter on this route in the book Extreme Rock & Ice, 25 of the World's Great Climbs, Garth Hattingh, The Mountaineers Books, 2000.
From this book, in the chapter titled, Metanoia – Eiger, Mixed Paranoia from the Master of Ice, the route is graded 5.10/A5/M6, 1800 m, somewhat varying from Jeff's description below.
You lived an astonishingly remarkable and very human life, replete with guts, glory, mistakes and humility, El Jefe.
Berg Heil,
Roy
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