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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Nov 30, 2006 - 03:59pm PT
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Even with pro to #3 Bro, the finish (last 20"?) is unprotectable. Fortunately that's the (relatively) easy part. Still who wants to whip onto whatever sparse pro you left 20" or more below you?
As far as 'pro to 3"' I seem to remember it eats a few #4 Friend sized cams which is 3 1/2".
If you want to TR it, I guess you can solo up the Iota chimney to the top of the first pitch, which has a bolted anchor. You probably also could go behind the Iota, and "scramble" up the left side, using the old knotted fixed rope that might still be there, and rap down to the bolted anchor.
Rob, I might be up for it, since I barely remember how much fun it isn't.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2006 - 04:15pm PT
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Well, lead it better than Ed! (Gary and Ed team led it)...
The knotted rope was there last year, but just barely... core shot and braids broken, definitely the crux. Getting into The Iota chimney is probably the best bet. Way scary compared to leading Chingando.
Bruce - I was looking for that article too, but didn't remember which journal it appeared in. Someone's got write the comphrensive index of climbing journals soon!
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Nov 30, 2006 - 04:23pm PT
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"Getting into The Iota chimney is probably the best bet. Way scary compared to leading Chingando. "
Looked that way to me too. I seem to remember that as a guidebook suggestion though.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Hi Ed,
Thanks for the TR and Pics.
I've organized my OW list by area. So far people take one look and we go do something else.
You've posted TRs on Chingando and Peter Pan. What's next?
Zander
Route rating page
Area/Day 1
Moby Dick Left 9 106
Peter Pan 9 100
Ahab 10b 106
Slack left 10b 104
Peter Pan left 10b/c 100
Area/Day 2
Doggie Do 10a
Henley quits 10a
Secret Storm 10a 135
Edge Of Night 10c 135
Area/Day 3
Chingando 10a 74
Reed's left side 10b 74
Area/Day 4
Absolutely Free Right 9 129
Rixon's East Chimney 10a 132
Misc.
Pharoah's Beard 8 262
Cookie Center 9 45
Hourglass right 10a 93
Narrow Escape 10c 28
Area/Day 6
Worst Error left 9 344
Crack of Doom 10a 346
Crack of Dispair 10a 346
Lost Arrow chimney 10a 158
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2006 - 04:19pm PT
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Zander -
we've done Moby Dick, Left a while ago and didn't post a TR, but it is such a "good" climb we'll be back to it this winter and post...
Ahab right now is a toprope after Moby Dick, Center, figuring out the pro will be the key.
The other's are known to us, but, we're working the 9s and 10as first...
Doggie Do is a toprope possibility too, Kate and Melissa ran into us a few years ago with wild grunting sounds eminating from the cliff, must of been a wierd approach for them.
Reed's Left was suggested for this weekend, but we had good excuses to go elsewhere.
I've been up and done Absolutely Free, Center, Right has a hideious reputation, which makes it even more desirable... (I'm sick, I know).
We took a gander at Pharoah's Beard, probably a good climb to do in the afternoon when the sun is on it, it would make for a lot more positive juju. Cookie Center looks good, we did Right and that was an ass kicker! I highly recommend it.
Stuff on Elephant Rock; that is the big leagues!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2006 - 04:22pm PT
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Here is the list we're currently working from, all are 10a in the Yellow Meyers' guide:
Banana Dreams
Cookie, Left
This and That
Nothing Special (Mongolian Clusterf*#k)
Chingando
Reed's Pinnacle, Left
Bong's Away, Center
Hourglass, Right
Gollum, Left
Orange Juice Avenue
Secret Storm
Doggie Do
Geek Towers, Center
Geek Towers, Right
Worst Error, Right
Crack of Doom
Crack of Dispair
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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It may be a squeeze to say that Cookie Centre is an offwidth. It's a weird claustrophobic tunnel thing. I've heard of people doing wild and crazy things to get up the outside, but most seem to squeeze in. I couldn't, even when I was 20. Too much swimming.
Some say that Moby Dick centre is an offwidth, likewise Sacherer Cracker. Bit of a stretch - even my dainty fists sort of fit the former, and the latter is only a few moves, around 5.8.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2006 - 05:59pm PT
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a tease for the reprise...
Gary in the lower 3rd of Moby Dick, Left 5.9
He's got sexy new, expensive black knee pads now (but he might be using the same tape gloves)...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The Iota Chimney during a full moon makes for a really fun outing. The chimney is such that the when the moonlight shines directly in it casts your shadow onto the wall inside. Early in my Valley days if arriving at night, I would routinely climb the Iota under full moon or flashlight. It's very easy to get to the bolts that allow Chingando to be TR. At 5.4, you just need kneedpads and some chimney technique.
My recollection of Chingando is that it's more about arm bars and squeeze chimneying and less actual OW.
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Yah00
Trad climber
CA
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Oh man, I got on Chingando for the first time a couple months ago. About half way through the hard part, after much flailing, I decided I'd had enough and just started pulling on gear to get to the top. Then, I discovered that the upper part is too wide for cams and, still worked, got to run it out to the chains. Good times.
On a somewhat related note, is their any way to protect the crux squeeze on Ahab? It's too wide for a cam and I'm not sure if the angle would accomodate a big bro.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I'd take the whole hardware store (a Big Bro should work).
While you're wrestling away, imagine Royal Robbins climbing the thing unroped in his street shoes. Man, was that guy solid on the wide stuff.
Bev Johnson was rather fond of climbing Ahab too. She could "get her ass in it," as she used to like to say.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Why is Bill following with such a big rack???
(mostly a bump, but with some smack talk thrown in for Billy)
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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"My recollection of Chingando is that it's more about arm bars and squeeze chimneying and less actual OW."
Hunh?
What move is more quintessentialy 'offwidth' than the armbar?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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No way Wall_Eye!!!! It is surely a trick of the light.....
here is a post OW pic from last week I just stole from another thread. Note to self: wear long pants in Josh OW's
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AlexC
climber
Los Angeles, CA
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> Ahab right now is a toprope after Moby Dick, Center, figuring out the pro
> will be the key.
...
> On a somewhat related note, is their any way to protect the crux squeeze
> on Ahab? It's too wide for a cam and I'm not sure if the angle would
> accomodate a big bro.
The squeeze on Ahab protects quite well with 2x #6 Friends and a #5 Friend or #4 Camalot. At one point it gets very wide on the #6 Friend and you might have to move it up a couple of feet past a slightly too wide part.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Yo Russ, post a pic of said rig...Boot and Rally? And no sucker links please...
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Long pants are aid. ;-)
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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hehehe... Nice one Missy!
Al Dude: there is link to some pics over on the JT rig..... can't remember the name of the thread but you are probably dust anyway as they are embedding in a giant flash program.... I'll look around for a dialup pic or two......
Mountain Man/ Jaybro edit: found one Al. Photo by SteelMonkey
Still trying to figure out if anyone has done this thing before.....
This thread will now return to the on topic blabbing it deserves... "Thanks" to Ed for the opportunity to hijack!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Zander...That's one ambitious circuit. You'll have to post a picture of your abs when you're done. Day one looks like several days worth of winter climbing adventures for me (or weeks if I didn't have a ropegun for all of the harder stuff).
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Melissa,
I know I'm toast. I'm one of the worlds best climbers when I'm planning and scheming. When I'm at the bottom of the climb looking up I'm still a pretty fine climber. It's when I get on the climb that problems begin! Still, if you plan a grag day as if you're doing a big multipitch day you've got a better chance of getting in a lot of pitches. Or so I've heard.
See ya,
Zander
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