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SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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I heard about Howie Monday. He was one of my first real
climbing partners, we went out to the Tetons in '74, and
then cruised up all of the standards in Eldo in '75. He wanted
to drag me out to Italy in '76, but the lure of the Valley
and moving West was stronger for me. He was the best climbing
partner one could ever have wanted. I've got boxes of slides
showing him leading me up all of the classics. One story I shouldn't tell is the time we climbed Champe (sp) rock in WVA.
There's a belay cave up there, and he really had to go, badly!
O god, what a stench! Thank god I was belaying him so he could
dump it out of the chimney! And his intensity--whoo. But I learned so much from him. I wish I'd know he'd retired to Utah,
as we'd lost touch in recent years. Thanks, Howie, for all of the great memories.
Steve Williams, Denver
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Tom Halicki
Social climber
Boulder, CO
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Some recollections of my favorite moments with Howard:
During breakfast while camping at the New:
Howard: “Why don’t you go talk those women up?”
Me: “Howard, I don’t think they like men.”
Howard: “Yeah, I know, but I wanted to see you try.”
Howard, after trying to sandbag me on Blood on the Tracks, where I only succeeded in getting to the crux, getting a cam stuck with the cams open, lowering off, and relinquishing the lead: “Sh#t, I sandbagged myself.”
Sage advice that I still repeat about choosing a Friend:
“Figure out the size you want and choose the next size smaller.”
Howard, 20 feet off a large ledge (I’ve forgotten the name of the route, but it’s on the North Peak East Face) up a 5.10 face with a bunch of bent pins protruding from it:
“If I fall, I’m going to try and jump out as far as I can so I won’t hit the ledge.”
Me: I didn’t say anything, but I took a hard look at how far he was going to have to jump out, thought about the prospect of catching his bulk, and decided blind faith in his success was the best recourse. He, of course, climbed flawlessly.
Me, watching Howard climb yet another route: “Jesus, Howard …. How can you hang in there so long?”
Howard: “You should have seen me when I was younger.”
Howard, after listening to me complain about the quality of the climbing at Seneca:
“Seneca is like Mother Crag to me.”
I served a grateful apprenticeship with Howard at Seneca in 1990. I climbed a lot of routes that I never would have gotten up if he hadn’t led them. “Good route to follow” was a frequent comment. The next year, when I started going out with Elizabeth, my future wife, he warmly welcomed her and we had many more good trips to Seneca and Nelson. But better than the climbing, and what I will always remember, were the evening meals at Yokum’s campground, big pasta affairs with lots of cheap wine and good conversation. Howard was a rare man who wore his heart on his sleeve. It's a testament to his good qualities that over a week later it still hurts to know that he's gone.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Louis
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Though I never had the pleasure of meeting Howie, I've heard about him for many years. The stories are superb, especially when they come from the lips of Adam Ehrlich (enhanced a bit no doubt!) I feel happy to have spent five years solid climbing at Seneca - Howie's home crag. Condolences to all...
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DCosby
climber
Charlotte, NC
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Dec 11, 2006 - 11:35am PT
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I am so sad to here about Howard. I have been out of the DC climbing scene for a decade now and only just heard the news. I consider my self lucky to have hung out at the crags with him on so many occasions. I know some of you that have posted here were very close to him and I extend my sincere condolences. Howard was indeed a fine man.
Crimpergirl, while it is true that Adam is a gifted story teller, I suspect his Howard stories required little if any enhancement.
I will always remember one day climbing at the Meadow River. Howard and his partner were climbing some distance down the cliff. A member of our party suffered a fairly bad injury and I was chosen to go for help. Without even thinking about it I ran away from the car and toward Howard. It is true that he was calm under fire and definitely the person everyone turned to if the going got tough.
Best wishes to you all,
Doug Cosby
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russ clune
climber
new paltz, ny
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Dec 11, 2006 - 12:06pm PT
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Hey Gang--
Wow--Howard would be psyched that he has created such a reunion of old farts! It has been nice to read all the remembrances.
I just heard about his death yesterday. What a complete bummer, though I wouldn't mind going out in the same manner--suddenly and quickly, after being active and healthy up to the last moment.
I would see Howie every so often out in SLC when visiting for work, usually running into him at one of the climbing gyms. What a great guy and like most of you, I found him a real pleasure to share a rope with; although I always did find driving with him way more frightening than any route!
Sorry I didn't get to see him recently. Another old friend to miss.
RIP, buddy.
Cheers to the rest of you.
Russ Clune
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Dec 11, 2006 - 01:13pm PT
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I never met him (surprised a little by that), but Howard sounds like one of the great ones in our little group of climbing souls. Sincere condolences to his friends and family. May we all be so fortunate to leave such positive memories with the ones we love.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Louis
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Dec 11, 2006 - 01:26pm PT
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Doug: True enough!
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2006 - 02:26pm PT
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About Howard's driving...We went to do a route in Boulder Canyon on Bell Buttress in 1980. The route was somewhat runout (Front Line 5.11) with two 1/4 bolts and gear.
I led the route and Howie followed no problem. He asked me how I could trust the bolts all the while he was driving at least 80 miles an hour down the canyon with the creek and rocks nothing but a blur.
I scream at him to slow down and said I would take the f*#king bolts any day over his driving when it came to feeling safe.
Seeing the fear in my face...He just gave me a little smirk and pick the speed up a little more.
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Laura Smith
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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Dec 11, 2006 - 03:33pm PT
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IMG]http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q11/bustersmith33/Seneca_Howard.jpg{{/img}}
Hi, This is Laura Smith. I first met Howard Doyle and Lotus Steele in the Gunks in the 70's. Russ Raffa and I spent many great days with them to include a couple of trips to Seneca and to Colorado.
During the 70's there was only a handful of cars parked at the Uberfall. We noticed climbers who were from another area, but even today it would be hard to overlook a commanding presence like Howard Doyle. Howard was also originally from New Jersey so he was attracted to our group of climbers who were also mostly from Jersey. I remember the weekends that Howard and Lotus showed up were always more fun.
We all became fast friends.
Howard was a paradox. He was big, but moved with an unusual grace when he climbed. He was intense and bantered with the guys (Russ Raffa, Bob D’Antonio, Elliot Williams and others), but was also soft spoken and compassionate.
Howard and Russ climbed a lot together along with Bobby D’. The interactions of these three guys were hilarious. They would argue over where to go, what to do, whose guidebook to use, politics, you name it. They would poke fun at each other’s physiques (the three of them were very good looking and in the prime of life so any imperfection such as a bump on the nose, flabby gut, sore ankle was cause for jokes). It was a tough guy club and Howard was the toughest guy in it. But they also cared about each other. Howard loved Russ and Bobby and they loved Howard; they were like brothers.
One day Howard and I climbed Son of Easy O. It was one of my first leads and the 2nd pitch is especially steep. I was nervous moving upward, but Howard was at the belay. He encouraged me. But more important I just knew (I absolutely knew), if I fell and all my gear ripped out, Howard would catch me with his bare hands if he had to as I tumbled down the cliff. He inspired others and always made you feel safe.
I saw Howard only once in the 1990s. He climbed in the Gunks with my husband Gene. They climbed at Skytop. Howard was in his 50s but easily led Deliberence, a 5.10R route. It was his kind of climb: a steep face with difficult protection. He loved the challenge of climbing and taking a calculated risk. But really I think most he enjoyed the friendships that sprung from being with others who shared this passion.
We moved to Washington DC in 1999. I was excited to see Howard and called his number. We got a voice mail that said he had moved to Salt Lake City. I was very disappointed. Howard called us back and we had a great talk. Gene and I thought we’d see him at some point, but the years went by. The news of Howard’s death is so shocking and so sad. What a great spirit we have lost.
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Laura Smith
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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Dec 11, 2006 - 03:56pm PT
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One more photo of Howard.......
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Dec 11, 2006 - 03:59pm PT
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Wow, Laura, what a great picture. Yourself, Howard, Lotus Steele, Russ Raffa, Kevin Bein, and Barbara Devine. I think Bragg and I were out in Eldorado at the same time. Great memories...
I knew Howard peripherally. Talked with him a bunch; never climbed with him. We found ourselves in the same places a lot.
The last time I saw him was around 1988. We went out to dinner and he came home with me because Mara and I had recently had our daughter Sarah and he was very curious how a very active climber like me made the transition to being a "family man." I don't know what he learned from the evening, but it seemed clear that he was searching for some answers.
There's something about seeing Howard and our beloved Kevin in the same picture that is particularly poignant. Rest in peace old buddy.
Richard
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ghand
Sport climber
Golden,Colorado
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Dec 11, 2006 - 04:20pm PT
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Laura,
I think I met you and Russ in Boulder 1980 when I did Country Club with Russ. The picture of Howard at the van is a great picture. I bought that van from Howard when I moved from DC to Boulder in 1980.
Greg
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2006 - 04:56pm PT
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This is turning into a beautiful tribute...let's keep it going.
Laura...great photo's.
They were by far ...some of the most wonderful days of my life.
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Rob Carter
Trad climber
Richmond, VA
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Dec 11, 2006 - 08:38pm PT
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Howard,
We won't be running into you at Seneca anymore. Thanks for the beta at the Manchester Wall in Richmond. It was unbelieveable to bump into you, out of nowhere, in the Uintas a couple of years ago. Snow and all. You are so missed. Thanks for your climbing legacy. Be well where ever you are. Your spirit rings within us. And, as Royal Robbins always says, " When you get to the top, keep on climbing!" Not so corny when you get there.
Old friends,
Rob Carter and Jamie McGrath
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rrrr3
Trad climber
new paltz
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Dec 11, 2006 - 11:03pm PT
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All,
Hard to believe Howard is dead. We survived too many fiasco's together... Howard and I first hooked up together In 77" and went to France to explore the Verdon Gorge. Being one of the first americans on the scene, we didn't have a clue what we were doing. We arrived with our little "free climbing rack"...2"swamie belt...and white painter pants. The French must have thought we were insane. We rapped down the 2,000 ft wall with little apprehension. After endless hours of repelling on" twigs" protruding from the vertical limeston...we knew we were in for some action. The action continued for next two weeks...with loose rock...impossible route finding and insane rap anchores.
After two weeks of free climbing the french "free" routes,... we found out that the french considered "free climbing" hanging from bolt to bolt. I estimate that Howard probably did the FFA of over 20 routes durning that period.
Too much fun...RIP
Russ Raffa
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morse
Trad climber
CT
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Dec 12, 2006 - 01:12pm PT
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I was a college student in Ohio back in the early 1980s. One lucky morning, thanks to an introduction from a mutual friend, I was able to climb with Howard for a few pitches on CLIMBIN' PUNISHMENT and AMBUSH on the Southern Pillar at Seneca Rocks. Of course I was in awe and a little nervous about how I would perform, but Howard was nothing but patient and supportive.
The last time I saw Howard was a random encounter in the Gunks in 1982, but the memory is still vivid. He had just finished the day's climbing out at Millbrook, where Rich Gottlieb, Russ Clune and he had put up a new line. I think it was the WIRE WIZARD. Howard was just glowing with satisfaction from the day's adventure, and his positive vibe, even though he didn't say too much, rubbed off on everyone around him. For me, it's very gratifying to know that Howard had so many great days like this and so many great friends in his life.
Years later, I got to know Howard through some of his harder routes at Seneca which were bold, beautiful and uncompromising. I didn't know Howard very well at all in the scheme of things, but he was always enormously generous to me with good advice – for climbing and life in general.
Chad Hussey
Belay that, the route at Millbrook is UNDER THE WIRE 5.11 -
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Laura Smith
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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Dec 12, 2006 - 02:34pm PT
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Rich, Great to hear from you! Didn't realize you were still in the Hudson Valley. My best to Mara!
Greg, Hi! Yes Russ remembers the climb with you! Seems like a life time ago! Thank you for the reply and great story about buying that van!
Russ, More Howard stories pleeeeeeease!
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russ clune
climber
new paltz, ny
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Dec 12, 2006 - 08:47pm PT
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Here's one of the best, typical Howard stories I remember, told to me by Howard. I certainly can't comment on the veracity of the story, but it went like this:
Howard, always fond of machines that go really fast, stopped by a motorcycle shop to test out some crotch rocket he had been thinking of buying. He talked to a salesman for a bit, the sales guy became convinced Howard was indeed a potential customer, and let Howard take the rig for a test spin.
Howard guns the thing around a block or two. Coming back to the alley where he started, he drops a gear and hucks into the alley way full throttle to see a delivery truck coming his way. The alley is way to narrow to go around the truck, so Howie lays the bike down and ditches. The bike skids under the truck with Howard right behind. The horrified sales guy comes running to the scene to find Howard crawling out from under the truck, bruised and banged up a little, but otherwise fine. The salesman is babbling at Howard, but Howard gets him to calm down and call an ambulance for the truck driver, who is elderly and having heart palpitations. Afterwards, Howard tells the salesman thanks, but he's no longer interested in the bike--didn't like the way it handled.
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SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Dec 13, 2006 - 08:18am PT
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Bob D--talking about driving fast. . .
His old Gold Chebby wagon on to Eldo in '75. . .
Leadfoot, we called him, two 'awards' from the
Kansas State Patrol within 15 minutes steaming
out west, the second where he had to deposit
$100 cash money in an envelope and put it in
the mailbox in front of the trooper. . .thank god
they didn't have computers like today, we'd have
been locked up for sure. . .
Steve W
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Dec 13, 2006 - 08:44am PT
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Bob et al,
My condolences; sounds like a solid partner and guy.
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