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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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where is this world going?!
buncha wannabe lazytards
in lycra pretending to be in a gym?
well i say to them leotardos
f*#k you and f*#k you and f*#k him
--Blackburn Lancashire
As for what old Tom would say...I witnessed this statement. :0)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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All this as#@&%e does is create a lot of unfortunate work for those of us who give a damn.
Time to get Sloan fined or banned from Yosemite just as he has been (or should be;edit) banned from this forum. Anyone who has witnessed Sloan power drilling in the last few years and is willing to testify to that effect please contact me.
Enough is enough.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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That doesn't change the intent of my post but thanks for the clarification.
There are already two distinct rappel routes down from Dolt Tower and it wouldn't surprise me if you could do either one with a single 80 meter rope. Who in the world climbs to Sickle and then raps off when the worthwhile climbing starts well above there?
Sloan loves to play games with information so it would be nice to have an independent report on just exactly what he has done so far.
He recently made a claim that someone had bolted over the predominantly free start of the Turning Point that turned out to be pure BS. Sloan seems intent on provoking some sort of response so away we go.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2843462/Great-Slab-Route-Washington-Column
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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"zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz"
that's the sound of the men working on the Bosch line
ooh uh
ooh uh
totally f*#king agree with Steve.
you can power drill your way to heaven's door
but ST PETER don't hold with sh#t like that
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Maybe do a prisoner exchange for Chongo? Can we have a vote?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Speaking Of BS, i heard Wings of Steel was chipped and overmdrilled and bolted and they got away with it, so why not Sloan and his lousy rap route?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Are you in favor of unnecessary bolts all over Valley routes Studly?
There is still no accurate hole count for WOS for anyone to use as a gauge of their quality of effort on the FA or maybe Richard and Mark would like to toss one out at long last. Otherwise, I would like to stay on task here.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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save El Cap from becoming the road-side crag the future generation wants it to feel like!
Uhhhh . . . I think it is too late. Last time I was there it was right above the side of the road. Perhaps the road is part of the problem.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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I'm not in favor of new retro bolts all over the Valley, but i do recognize that things have chamged allot with longer ropes being the new standard. As much as we like to hold onto the past, the future is here and now.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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If rope length is the issue then rework the existing rap route rather than establish another one. Again, an accurate report about what Sloan is doing would be useful.
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Byran
climber
Half Dome Village
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I'm not in favor of new retro bolts all over the Valley, but i do recognize that things have chamged allot with longer ropes being the new standard. As much as we like to hold onto the past, the future is here and now.
He isn't changing the position of the anchors to make them farther apart in accordance with longer ropes. That would be fine I think. It would make for a quicker descent and mean a few less bolts on El Cap. He's adding more anchors in between the existing ones so that it's now possible to rap with one 60m rope. But why would anyone want that? Why wouldn't a bigwall party have two ropes with them? Unless they're a NIAD team, and what kind of NIAD party is really going to bail from sickle?
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Why would anyone continue to modify existing routes and rappels without an obvious need?
Seems very self centered and irresponsible. He could probably do some good work if he would listen a little more to the rest of the community, but he seems to have cadre of yes men to sanction his desires.
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WBraun
climber
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what kind of party is really going to bail from sickle?
Possibilities are always there for such scenarios due to the unforeseen events.
I could easily list many since some NIAD teams take only a single rope.
But!!!!
Stuportopo is infested with non-climbers with almost no experience with single rope speed ascents on El Cap who've had sh!t go wrong and needed to bail ......
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Seems very self centered and irresponsible. He could probably do some good work if he would listen a little more to the rest of the community, but he seems to have cadre of yes men to sanction his desires.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Changing the rap route, meh.
It's the shameless solicitation of money that to me is distasteful. I don't think I've ever seen an individual ask for money to put up or add bolts to routes. All at the request of "tons of folks". Sure....
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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What a bunch of slack jawed sissies climbing has become.
Good grief. Run to law enforcement, let them handle it... <eyeroll>
This dude is essentially shitting on some of the fundamental ethics of climbing and yet he continues to publicly announce it (and solicit for more money to continue) and all you do express faux outrage on an interwebs forum.
What happened to the good ole days when anyone that pulled a stunt like that better be carrying four spares for their rig? Or better yet a few butterfly closures.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Retrobolt, not retrolblot...
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WBraun
climber
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So Escopeta is saying that YOSAR should slash all Eriks tires and beat the sh!t out him for putting in anchor bolts.
Now that's some stoopid sh!t to say .......
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Slow day on the Flames thread, Mouse?
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