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cotuclimber
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 25, 2016 - 07:56pm PT
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That's what chalk is for, moose. Outside people sh#t and piss right on the wall. Ever wanted to know why they called the route superslide? Now imagine poop flowing down a slabby crack, aided by a strong natural lubricant. Than, they continue climbing without washing their hands. Crazy right?
Don't go outdoors, stay in the gym.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 25, 2016 - 09:07pm PT
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Do these count? They're two days from the nearest gym if you get lucky with your flight.
Sorry for being snarky.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Mar 25, 2016 - 09:13pm PT
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I see people going to the toilets wearing climbing shoes.
My gym has signs. Sometimes people still do it. I call people on it when I see them.
I've been gym climbing for four years, four+ times a week at my peak, never had a problem in spite of countless abrasions.
I also have 12 years and counting in EMS and worked in a hospital for seven years, so my grossness threshold is a bit higher than most.
Edit:
Sorry for being snarky. I don't believe you're sorry. ;)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 25, 2016 - 09:37pm PT
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I don't believe in deleting but I do apologize for my post...it wasn't in keeping with the spirit of the thread.
Honest question....are gym cracks really a lot better now? It's been quite a while since I have been in a gym and a decade ago the gym cracks I sampled didn't feel anything at all like real cracks.
Mei, I really enjoyed your Twighlight Zone TR.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Mar 25, 2016 - 10:06pm PT
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I can't speak for anyone else, but I wasn't offended.
Re: natural vs. artificial cracks, they're not bad. They're not great either (they tend to be slicker, less featured, and less "crisp", if that makes sense), but they mimic well enough to provide practice for the real thing.
Full disclosure: I don't have much grounds for comparison; I've only been working gym cracks for the last two months.
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JC Marin
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 25, 2016 - 10:12pm PT
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What doesn't kill you makes you stronger...
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Mei
Trad climber
I'm back!
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2016 - 10:37pm PT
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Jim! Your open apology means a lot to me and speaks volume of your integrity and large character. I'm sending virtual hugs your way if you don't mind.
Gym climbing is not for everyone. I could not get the man I lived with for ten years to enjoy even one gym session! However, I attribute 100% of my progress on cracks, since I got back into climbing last year, to my crack sessions in the gym. Twilight Zone onsight was nice, but I was also happy to follow thin cracks like Red Zinger clean, formerly not deemed attainable. Feeling grateful for what I have access to and for what I have benefited from prompted me to share my post and stoke with others.
I've been to other gyms where cracks are nothing but two parallel edges. I'll do them, but they are not that much interesting. That said, plenty of Indian Creek cracks are nothing but two parallel edges too. Guess that's why many people call IC an outdoor gym. PG's cracks are unique in a way that many of them were hand crafted. And because there are so many, there is always challenge to be found, which makes it fun for me. If I had an OW dialed one way, I do it the completely wrong/retarded way just to make it challenging again. I've not graduated to inversion yet.
I honestly feel that if you see past the fact that the cracks are made of stucco, as far as the moves are concerned, there is no difference from climbing outside. And I've seen rock more abrasive outside and smoother outside as well, so the texture does not really set it apart.
I am just about to head out of the door to drive solo to Yosemite for a day trip. I have a cold, but I'm not going to pull the blanket from under my partner. So, watch out, germaphobics, here I come... to smear my cold germs on the wall, outdoor wall! Take that!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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I've not graduated to inversion yet.
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2016 - 09:19pm PT
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Yesterday, I went to Berkeley Ironworks first time to participate in the 90th Birthday Celebration for Allen Steck. He is a living legend and an inspiration. We watched the movie documenting the 3rd ascent (2nd continuous ascent) of Salathe Wall. Makes me want to climb it badly.
Anyway, also got to check out the three cracks at the gym. Did two laps each including the hand traverse. TR onsight. They are fun.
#1
#2
#3
Thanks to the germaphobics, I now am a lot more careful at the gyms, always washing my hands right after climbing and eating all my snacks holding the wrapper. Life is a little more complicated, but I can handle it.
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Been working on this one in Riverside. Not much success, it feels pretty hard for me, good finger locks but very slick feet. They also have a hand crack with a fun roof/overhang at the top.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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I could not get the man I lived with for ten years to enjoy even one gym session!
Maybe quit trying to change people?
Those cracks look pretty good gyms have changed a lot since I was last at one.
I love that Alexey picture...getting limbered up for some goose stepping.
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2016 - 09:06am PT
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Overwatch prescribes:
Maybe quit trying to change people? Strange, what made you accuse I am trying to change anybody, let alone people, Mr. "Overwatch"?
nathanael, that's a good looking crack and looks challenging. The thin crack at Berkeley Ironworks also has slick feet. That just puts a higher demand on precise footwork.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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I just inferred it when you said you couldn't get your roommate to go gym climbing implying that they didn't want to but you kept trying for 10 years.
My mistake I guess
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2016 - 11:47am PT
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overwatch clarifies:
I just inferred it when you said you couldn't get your roommate to go gym climbing implying that they didn't want to but you kept trying for 10 years.
My mistake I guess No worries. It is a natural inclination to form opinions based on inference. Everybody does that. But I've found many people here (not talking about you) tend to pass strong judgement based on their weak inferences and are quick to criticize, as if they have a need to feel superior. I don't visit many forums, but find that culture prevalent here these days. It's a shame because I like to share my passion (old and renewed) for climbing with others. I guess I'm not thick skinned enough because even after I wrote a trip report for Supertopo, I found myself hesitate to post here. Oh well. It's the writing process that I really needed.
Kudos to all who post stokes and positive vibes here!
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Kudos to all who post stokes and positive vibes here!
Don't want to get all Yin and Yang and s h i t but...
No offense intended just stirring the pot a little, I know how some women love 'fixer uppers'. Keeps your thread bumped and as I said , I got some new insight as to the state of the gym art these days.
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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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May 17, 2016 - 05:09pm PT
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I've climbed gym cracks a lot since becoming surrounded by the urban jungle. They are better than nothing. I generally don't worry about what may be growing within, although I have had a few scratches that lingered longer than they should.
My main complaint is people standing at the urinal in their climbing shoes, but the guy standing at the urinal and eating a powerbar grossed me out the most.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 17, 2016 - 05:36pm PT
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Chill, I was long time curious to ask did we see each other in Sunnyvale gym?
Jaybro couple of years ago mentioned about this on Balch camp tread that we know each other.
I can not correspond anyone with the name "Chill", but probably I know you under your real name?
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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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May 17, 2016 - 07:27pm PT
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Yes Alexey, we know each other from PG and have run into each in the valley. I think you also know my daughter, Sarah.
My name is Chris Hill, hence, "chill".
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 17, 2016 - 10:30pm PT
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this is what I was guessing. I met Sarah recently at Church Bowl with nice group of friends
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