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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Lots of rebolting has been done on the Nose and there is hardly anything that's not beefy up there. The Rap Route out of the stovelegs is pretty beefy.
Let's say you take the low road to the bottom of the stovelegs and belay there. I think it's unfortunate that the belay anchors on the top of the following pitch (the first in the stovelegs) has been chopped. I think the old topo shows them to the left of the crack. Now the only anchor for that pitch is the Rap station that is out on the face to the right which I remember having to tension traverse to.
Some folks have started to belay at the top of the bolt ladder out of Dolt hole and, if you penji from there, you can make it to the next belay anchor in one pitch. Then a long 200 foot pitch could get you to Dolt Tower. Unfortunately, this method means missing much of the best Bomber handcrack on the stovelegs.
Just some info
Peace
Karl
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Did any body ever repeat Dale Bard's lead of The Burner above Dolt Hole? That thing is one baddass looking fat crack!
Chris Mac, if you are scanning, why not include The Burner in your Nose topo? Just continue the left facing corner above Dolt Hole for a ropelength ending with a left hooking small roof and a bolt belay. 5.11+ ow if memory serves.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2006 - 07:10pm PT
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It's a crack though, Karl, isn't it? Therefore, can't you just belay in the crack and have the second climb through (over?) you without having to tension traverse to the belay anchor? I guess if you were hauling a pig you might want to do that.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Hi Bruce
Yeah it's a crack. But the problem is that it's #2 camalot size for miles without many other options. By the time you reach a place to belay most folks don't have a couple pieces that size left, and you'll need em on the next pitch as well.
And since the Nose is a cluster, there might already be a party bailing on the rap route.
Still, it's not a big deal, just a dissappointment if you're firing up the stovelegs, expecting to find the bolted belay on the topo, and it ain't there.
Peace
Karl
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WBraun
climber
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Steve G
After Dale and I did the FA of the Burner, me Kauk, Bacher, and Dale all went back there again a while later. So it has a second ascent and I believe even more.
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WBraun
climber
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Gee, Steve
I don't know, I guess so. I'm the worst grader in the world. I don't really know how to grade climbs very well in those numbers.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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"Is 5.11+ a fair grade?"
just as fair as 5.9+ only harder.
I heard, I think, of somebody else doing it but can't remember the details.
I think some folks have launched up there by mistake too! Don't know what happened to em
Peace
Karl
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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I was under the impression that people used to do it occasionally, i always wanted to, but never get on it.
Grug?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2006 - 02:00am PT
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Thanks for all the neat info. on this project, especially the historical notes on the Chapman/Barry FFA. Sounds like the trick is to lead the 5.10d traverse into the lowest SL and let your second scream & holler as he follows you across. Another example of the fine art of terrorizing the second? We'll have to wait & see.
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hardman
Trad climber
love the eastern sierras
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Dec 12, 2006 - 08:58am PT
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"The Rap Route out of the stovelegs is pretty beefy."
Hey Karl next time you're up there lift up the hangers and tell us how beefy those bolts worn half way though are. I posted before those bolts need attention from all the big wallers haulling up on these bolts. so yeah i guess there was another gunkie that came out west to free the nose but got spanked. well at least Lynn showed you all how it's done.
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nate
Trad climber
virginia
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Dec 12, 2006 - 01:44pm PT
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I don't remeber any bad anchors? Would have love to do the stovelegs in their entirety. I guess the money would be to take a stack of 5 number two and save 2 for the anchor or it seems like it might be pretty reasonable to simul between the good bolted anchors as the climbing is locked in?
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bobmarley
Trad climber
auburn, california
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Dec 12, 2006 - 04:53pm PT
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 12, 2006 - 08:31pm PT
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"Hey Karl next time you're up there lift up the hangers and tell us how beefy those bolts worn half way though are. I posted before those bolts need attention from all the big wallers haulling up on these bolts. so yeah i guess there was another gunkie that came out west to free the nose but got spanked. well at least Lynn showed you all how it's done. "
I suppose I could be wrong. Just never noticed bad bolts on the rap. Maybe it's the big hangers and chains that create an illusion of beefier anchors than 60% of all bolted anchors in Yosemite, but if you say you inspected them closely, I'd encourage any rebolters to check em out. Almost nobody hauls up the rap route into the stovelegs so I assume you're talking about the section just right of the actual climbing.
I'm light (or not light, maybe that's my problem. When I pick the Nose, it's not free.
Peace
Karl
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 10, 2007 - 05:03pm PT
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Yesterday we did day climb to Dolt Tower and had time to go tree more pitches to El Cap Tower. We did not climb them because we was not sure how to rappel from there with 2 50m ropes. From Dolt there is strait down eight 50m rappels to the ground mentioned on topo.
My question: is similar direct rappel line exist under El Cap Tower or you need to return from there to Dolt by doing leaning rappels?
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