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Friend
climber
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Jan 13, 2016 - 10:12am PT
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+1 for all the great problems and photos above!! Getting so psyched.
Josh:
White Rastafarian 5.11, FA bachar and largo. The one and only.
Alexandria v6, FA Miramontes. One of the prettiest boulders, and a totally unique and wild sequence. Bummer it's a cheat-stone problem, but this one makes the short list anyway.
Cracker Boy v7 @ Black mtn. FA by KLK. One of so cal’s most eye-catching problems. Totally suave sequence, unforgettable.
South Ridge Arete B1 by Skip Guerin. Ratings systems have come and gone since Craig Fry’s book came out 25 years ago, but he pretty much nailed it. Except for this one at B1 (v5)... hilarious. This was an epic project for me. Unfortunately I guess it’s broken now. I’m not sure how hard it is now... still B1 I guess heh.
Woodson: Driving South 5.11d FA Bachar, duh. Best finger crack problem in the world? This is 5.11d so the Bachar Cracker is 5.11b
The North Face of Grandma Peabody v2. Other problems get the “best highball” hype, but this is the one IMHO.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 13, 2016 - 10:22am PT
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Easy but classic
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 13, 2016 - 10:30am PT
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Daniel, is that location secret, or can you tell us where it is?
John
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jan 13, 2016 - 10:44am PT
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It's the 440 boulders John. I'll tell you where it is but won't post it on here since it's technically private property. FB message me if you haven't been there before.
About a mile long hill covered in good cracks with lots of tall stuff I usually TR solo until I'm comfortable.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 13, 2016 - 11:00am PT
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Yikes, that's a mindbender. I was lucky in life, and was able, over the years, to be a resident climber at a LOT of different bouldering areas all over the United States. My favorite boulder problems have meaning to me not just because they are good - that will go without saying -- but for so many other reasons.
My first 5.6 on the Pink Boulder -- this was the first boulder problem I ever did, and I recall it vividly, the deep satisfaction that was very much different from completing a roped pitch. Those first hard edging routes at Santee (my true introduction to bonafide hard climbing), my go-to after work circuit in Boston, good problems in areas I had to myself and could pick plums at a leisurely pace, problems like Pruneface at Woodson which I never climbed, but where I pulled off an epic spotting catch for a friend who outweighed me by 40 pounds that send up both tumbling down the hill...yeah, I've done a lot of problems all over the Northern Hemisphere that were five star ultras, but it is all those problems that have a deeply personal backstory attached to them, problems that informed my way of seeing the world or that conjure old friendships, problems that are emblematic of some period of my life and that are key anchors in my emotional idiolect: those are the favorites.
No matter where am, I can huck a lap on them in my mind and get that same good feeling. They are like time machines that way. Bouldering, always with the bouldering, the thread that runs unwavering straight down the timeline of my life.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 13, 2016 - 11:04am PT
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Excellent input BVB.
Bouldering isn't really my thing, but
VEasy Shuteye Plates.
Mindy at Shuteye Pass boulders
BMac at Eagle's Nest
And another perspective of Mega Ohm.
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ecflau
Gym climber
CA
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Jan 13, 2016 - 12:50pm PT
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Weston - where is Mr. Smiley, V6, Red Rock? Kraft? That looks so cool. I want to try it.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 13, 2016 - 01:31pm PT
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Bvb said
No matter where am, I can huck a lap on them in my mind
Yep.
Once, I broke a tooth on a road trip and had to see a dentist.
With barely any money and no insurance, I had to opt for the cheapest fix- an extraction with no anesthesia.
It was heinous and the way I meditated was to visualize every single move from every single boulder problem I could remember at Hueco, where I'd just been.
It worked!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 13, 2016 - 02:15pm PT
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Burchey lol!
I held back on the full spraydown of problems,
you've probably heard about them or read about them in the mags though.
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Friend
climber
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Jan 13, 2016 - 02:36pm PT
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Fivethirty your last picture is insane!
+1 for Crossroads Moe and Once upon a time. I did Suspended in Silence several times when it was v5 and glad I did because I understand it's broken and now much harder. Wicked cool.
Locker good call on the Gripper Traverse and Gunsmoke of course. Classic warm ups and day finishers.
I forgot another all time favorite, the Fallen Arch v5 at Black. So good and so beautiful. Like a yin-yang symbol. The mantle feels like the crux, until you press it out and are teetering there feeling around for the next hold, yowza. Lobbed off that one a few times.
Hard as Nails 5.11++ ultra thin tips to 5.11a fingers. Hang on...
Alexandria v6, exiting the crux with the amazing cross-thru move
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 13, 2016 - 02:43pm PT
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Ok burch since you asked
Daily Dick Dose
Moonshine Roof
Donkey Show
Ghetto Simulator
3 Star Arête
Hobbit in a Blender
Dragonfly
No one here gets out alive
Warmup Roof
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Friend
climber
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Jan 13, 2016 - 02:44pm PT
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photos please jefe
Never been to hueco (shame)
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 13, 2016 - 02:47pm PT
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I have photos of Cracker Boy somewhere- like in the shoebox with all the hueco pics. :-)
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jan 13, 2016 - 02:54pm PT
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Friend
climber
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Jan 13, 2016 - 03:22pm PT
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I knew what you meant. I thought Once Upon a time was scary and full value. Awesome climb.
^^ Yes: Rogue Wave I just watched a clip of it. Looks mega. Your camera angle is much better than the typical GoPro on the ground right behind the spotter's ass!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 13, 2016 - 03:33pm PT
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Yeah Once Upon a Time. That is unique, I think I pulled a neck muscle on that thing.
I agree Ryan, The Ruckas is bad ass. Good sh#t at the Pollens too. Like spectre, I think I onsited it like third go.
A couple JR mentioned on the previous page.
.38 Special, V5
Desperate Measures, V4
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RyanD
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2016 - 03:35pm PT
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Stoked to see some of my favorite posters add some quality to this thread. If I wasn't currently trapped on a desert isle with no rocks I'd definitely be going bouldering, or to the gym at least.
Instead I'll eat spam musibi's, drink 10 beers and do mental laps till I get mental flaps on some of my favs! Thanks guys!
Jefe!!! gnarly wtf!!!!!! That's the definition of "local" anisthetic!
Randisi, I've bouldered on sandstone a bunch and to be straight my favorite Boulder problems I've done are probably in font, I don't know what they are called or how hard they are at all but they were amazing. My sample was too small unfortunately. I've been on some stateside sandstone too, will have to dig in the notes to see if there's any standouts. At the end of the day though we are often products of our environment. I find the limit on sandstone for me is how fit I am and strong my fingers are, figuring out the line is usually more obvious, whereas with granite there is often much more trickery involved and finding the foothold or where a certain finger goes is just as important as the strength required.
BVB, American f * # k ing legend! Thanks for the thoughts, I appreciate your perspective.
And even though it's hella greasy Keytron classic is one of my favourites in the happies.
Much respect to all the porch monkeys
I think I posted this before somewhere 4 or 5,000 posts back in the Squamish thread but here's an edit of me and a few friends on some of our favourites. Except breakfast at tiffany's, that thing is sharp and heinous.
https://vimeo.com/42637582
Edit- try now friend
Second edit- Eastside story looks stellar!!!!!!
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Friend
climber
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Jan 13, 2016 - 03:49pm PT
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Yeah BVB nailed it as usual. It's such a personal thing.
I don't know which is the proper name but I like 7 Spanish Angels better. A sexy name for a sexy problem for sure.
How about this spooky gem. East Side Story v3 by Kevin Daniels. The crux is still several moves higher. That's real fear you smell in this picture.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 13, 2016 - 04:04pm PT
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7 Spanish Angels is definitely sexier, but my old Wu Tang days, prefer "Bring the Mutha F*#king Ruckas, Bring The Mother F*#king Ruckas."
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Holy sh#t on East Side Story.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 13, 2016 - 04:31pm PT
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Get Carter, what a boulder.
re: derelict tooth extraction
The worst part was the tooth was rotten and fragile and the dentist was unable to clamp and pull without breaking it further. He had to put a little gauze hammock to catch the shrapnel from going down my throat.
I think he may have given me a mercy shot towards the end. I didn't notice, I was too busy sending Daily Dick Dose in my mind lol!
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