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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Maybe this latest indiscretion is in such an obvious and popular location and would so obviously anger the greater climbing community... that it was done precisely to "strike back" at the community who has shunned his previous actions?
Lashing out like a cornered possum with nowhere to run???
Maybe a cry for help??
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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super lame to add convenient aid anchors in the middle of a free pitch. CHOP (and neatly fill)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Heavens to Betsy.....when oh when will Valley climbers start behaving themselves?
Some of them obviously weren't ,as my British born wife would say, ....well brought up.
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bbbeans
Trad climber
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definitely need a practice aid climb now for the practice aid climb. this situation is hilarious.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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But Woot Boy is so nice in person, always being helpful, so we must tolerate his actions.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Now don't say that Cosmic! I'll lose sleep and I'm getting low on ambien.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Jim, at least you're not low T
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Not do sure Nature...snow in Ouray today. Heading to IC tomorrow for some fun in the desert sun!
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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^^^^ I know, all those cams are heavy, and expensive. Wouldn't it be nice to show up at IC with 16 quickdraws . . .
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Just went over to Church bowl, got on energizer and an obscure sport climb down the hill. Anyway, yes there is now an anchor on a face in the middle of a free climb. Fantastic.
ps. I'll say in advance that constant bickering over a few added bolts is silly. The day I added this anchor I ran into a friend and told him what I had just done. 'Nice! I just added a bolted anchor on top of Golden Needles at Pat and Jack' he said.
While this also sucks, at least it's at the TOP of the pitch, where anchors normally go.
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WBraun
climber
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Eric ... this IS fuked up.
There's no excise for this .....
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Erik Sloan,- only now I fully understand why so many climbers hate you.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Normally I feel pretty strong about purchasing guide books, especially e-books. I have always turned people down when they have wanted a pirated copy of any book I own. I have always gone out of my way to support authors and have even purchased books for a one-time use instead of borrowing them when I could. I even bought your bigwall book because it is a fine product and I really respect Roger. I'm not sure if he is involved with your new book t all?
That said, given these type actions, I probably won't purchase your new free climbing book. And honestly, I wouldn't be all that bummed if pirated copies got widely distributed. I hope those that don't support these kind of actions will spread the word that this author is not to be supported. Can see the sales pitch here:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/new-yosemite-free-climbs-select-guidebook-almost-done---call-for-photos/111264128
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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I keep hoping this is some elaborate troll. If not, what Russ said. Thank god there is no aid climbing in JT any more. It seems to be the gateway drug to total pussification for some folks.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Guess I should make more...
Promise, i'll put real butter on it this time. Bring beers.
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
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I've tried to keep out of the drama. This is so blatantly a final straw.
My next opportunity is Fri Nov 13. If they are still there come 5:00 I will be on my way to chop and patch.
I've also been sending topos on new routes and so on to Sloan. No more.
I've been skeptical. This seals the deal.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Parasite.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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That area's a shitshow, too bad.
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John M
climber
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Cosmic, you really don't want to involve the park in this. There are good climbing rangers, but they don't always have the final say, so you open up a big can of worms. All it takes is one superintendent who doesn't like climbers and you can end up with rules that you don't want. Keep the park out of this.
Plus this just isn't something that they are going to police. This is a community issue and should stay that way.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Jackie TreeSloan treats rock-objects like women, man.
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