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sandstone and sky
Trad climber
AK
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Oct 21, 2006 - 03:23pm PT
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From GF originally, but spent a lot of time in the Park and around Flathead as a yoot.
Right now we're in Anchorage, but we try to spend as little time there as possible :)
I saw a few of your trip reports from earlier this summer - sounds like you had a blast! I'm jealous, I had more of a working summer.
Now back to your regularly scheduled tricam discussion.
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sandstone and sky
Trad climber
AK
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Oct 21, 2006 - 10:57pm PT
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GF isn't the biggest tourist destination in the world, but it has a certain blue collar charm, if you like prairie.
There is actually some fun climbing, if you know where to look. If you get down that way, let me know, it would be fun to see what you think. A lot of it is sandstone, what a surprise.
To stay on topic, I've used plenty of hexes there, but never a pink tricam.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Oct 21, 2006 - 11:15pm PT
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I dont know Aya that first tee shirt
Looks suspiciously like
THE KRAKEN!
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lori
Social climber
CA
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Oct 22, 2006 - 03:55am PT
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Oh, how wonderful!
Just got home from work and cruising ST and find this thread first. I LOVE Mr. Pink. By far my favorite piece and i just replaced the second one last week, (it's best to always have at least two, and one red and that's about it).
The poem(s) remind me of many confidence-boosting placements. I had no idea others revered Mr. Pink as much as myself. Most of my partners can't be bothered and Mr. pink and the red one go on my harness only, never makes it to the gear sling. . .
Thanks for the link Mighty Hiker, I'm off to sleep and dream now of bomber pink tri-cam placements!
aya - love the shirt, that's awesome!
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Mar 26, 2007 - 10:40am PT
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Pinky and "The Brain"...
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 26, 2007 - 01:34pm PT
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this is amazing
pink tricam website !
and
pink tricam t-shirt !
I'm honestly kinda stunned by this...
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Mar 26, 2007 - 03:12pm PT
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I'm gonna work on my blue alien poem
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 26, 2007 - 09:49pm PT
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I wanna have fun I wanna make tri-cam art too!!!
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Aya K
Trad climber
New York
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Mar 26, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
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How coincidental to come home and find this thread - I just placed my first two pink tricams of the rock season today - and since it was the gunks, they were BOMBER!!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 26, 2007 - 10:26pm PT
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The only tricams I've used in the field were bomber too - welded in fact. Fixed with a hammer.
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Gunks Guy
Trad climber
Rhinebeck, NY
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May 31, 2007 - 09:44pm PT
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Many years ago I backed off a route because it started to rain. Being young, foolish, broke, did I mention foolish and broke? I decided to leave as little gear as possible. I was in a little alcove with a perfect sized, parallel sided, pink tricam crack in the top. So I gingerly set the tricam, thread the rope through its webbing and rap. At the bottom I shake the rope a few times and viola, down comes my rope....and my tricam. Probably not one of my brighter stunts, but it did impress my partner...he never would let me set up the rap anchors after that!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I like the .5 so much that I carry two of them along with a 1 & 1.5! Tricams work where other gear does not and allow some truly amazing placements. But there comes a time when that delicate little pink strand of webbing becomes less than rosy to fall on! Most sewing shops will not close webbing loops for you but they will usually do the following modification if a water knot is used.
In order to retain some of the webbing stiffness that is desirable to help maintain position, a bar tack close to the tricam scroll pin and several longitudinal lines of stitching do the trick.
So don't retire those venerable old nuggets just yet! A pretty new ribbon is all that is required. Haven't found pink 1/2" tubular webbing out in the world unfortunately so red is close enough for me.
Much praise to the Russian master mountaineer Vitaly Abalakov, who saw the future in a chunk of flywheel one day and graciously passed his gift of genius along to climbers everywhere expecting nothing in return. He also invented the V thread used by ice climbers everywhere while escaping.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Love the shots of the "old ones"--here's some shots of the "new ones"
I dig my 3 "pinks".
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Steve, Abalokov didn't concieve the tri-cam idea. I brought prototypes with me on a trip to Russia in 1974. It was an international climbers camp in the Pamirs hosted by Vitaly (not Segei) Abalokov. I had several long discussions with him about gear, during which we exchanged many ideas. He was particularly interested in the tri-cam idea and traded some titanium pins and biners for the prototypes. Two years later, when a Russian crew visited the North Cascades, they had the Abalokov versions, cut from pulleys. These were not true logarithmic cams offering a constant angle of contact, nor was the concept Abalokov's. He knew my brother Greg had already applied for the patent, therefore his claim of some sort of "pure" motive for offering the idea gratis to the climbing community is total BS. Abalokov clearly had not thought of the idea before I showed it to him in the summer of 1974, years after Greg had begun playing with the concept.
-Jeff
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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I've carried a pinkie or two since the 80s, though I've yet to take a fall on one. They always seem to work where nothing else will. Love 'em.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I stand corrected Jello and backedited his name as well. The "claim" of generosity on his part is more my recollection of hearsay than any actual statement he made. Did you guys respond when the flywheel prototypes showed up in the Alex Bertulis 1978 AAJ article documenting the Soviet first ascents in the Cascades? When did the first Lowe Tricams hit the market? How about the V thread concept origination?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Did tri-cams smaller than pink ever exist?
With the super-skinny dynema webbing around these days, it seems like they would be easy to scale down.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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yeah, but how soon do you need to use 'em before the sling expires?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I always thought the micro wired Tricams were right around the corner as an aid goodie. I have heard of people making their own but I have never seen one.
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Jude Bischoff
Ice climber
Palm Springs
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Liberals love manly pink tricams! The Courtright companion.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!