Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
Surprised it took that long for someone to mention Third Pillar. A must do though.
Haven't actually made it out to Mt. Merriam, but the N. Buttress and/or the Croft-Rands look great.
Mt. Russell.
Mt. Chamberlin looks AWESOME, but a good hike in and not sure how easy it will be to score a permit for the Whitney area.
SW Face of Conness is on my list and can be done in a day, if that's a plus.
Sunribbon on Temple Crag.
Levy's suggestion about the Needles is great. In a couple of days you could do Airy Interlude, Thin Ice, Don Juan Wall, Love Potion No. 9, etc., etc. Best rock in the Sierra.
If you're already on the West side, lots of recent noise about the Bubbs Creek Wall, which I've hiked past but never climbed. Looks real purdy.
What a quandry to be in.
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
Have you been to the Needles? It doesn't get much better...
|
|
The Alpine
climber
|
|
How backcountry are you willing to get? Them old knees still strong?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
Pinnacles, for real?
You must try the classics
Battle Hamster and Supply Side Hamster!
|
|
MarkWestman
Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
|
|
Jim-
Both Croft-Rands routes on Merriam Peak are just what you are looking for.
http://lisarands.com/?page_id=1042
As good as anything I've done in the Sierra. Not as long as the Hulk but equal in quality in my opinion, and far less crowded than the Hulk, and even more scenic. Long approach to beautiful camping right below the route. Easy descent. You could even do the standard north buttress while you're at it for three excellent routes in one trip.
While you're in Pine Creek, go do Rites of Spring next to Pratt's Crack. Solid 5.10 outing on bullet stone, one of my all time local favorites.
I second Western Front on Russell. A solid step up from Mithral Dihedral (which is also great as others have noted)
Bony Fingers and Nimbus at Whitney Portal are five stars if thunderstorms are forcing low-commitment days upon you.
|
|
adam d
climber
CA
|
|
Ditto these guys on Russell. I've just done Mithral and Western Front, both are great. WF is better for being a little harder, more sustained and longer...chilly in the am though.
If you're hiking all the way to Iceberg Lake, it's worth sticking around for a couple of days...lots to do up there.
|
|
snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
|
|
+1 for Western Front
Sunspot Dihedral- truly phenomenal corner system
Polish Route to Escape From Poland- splitter, airy, wide isnt too bad
Then do PV again!
|
|
Gary
Social climber
From A Buick 6
|
|
Mt. Chamberlin looks AWESOME, but a good hike in and not sure how easy it will be to score a permit for the Whitney area.
You don't need a Whitney permit. Use Horseshoe Meadows, the quota is like 60 per day, plus you don't need to cross Trail Crest.
|
|
The Alpine
climber
|
|
Chamberlin also has this pretty awesome tower at the top named the Bean Pole (in memory of Bean Bowers)
|
|
Bad Climber
climber
|
|
Hey, Jim:
Too easy for you, but the S. Face of Clyde Minaret is one of my all-time faves: IV 5.8/5.9
BAd
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2015 - 04:19pm PT
|
I hear getting permits has become a real drag. May have to go elsewhere or do stealth climbing.
|
|
CA.Timothy
climber
California
|
|
inyo nf permit checks are rare to non-existent (away from Mt Whitney and a few select trail heads like Mosquito flat or a few popular JMT starts) based on my years working for the NPS on the East Side. I would not sweat if I was going sans-permit
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Id plan for a trip to the needles and do Don Juan wall and airy interlude on one of the days. Fancy free, thin ice, spook book, Atlantis if anyone is down to run it out a bit on a 11c layback. The emperor is one of the best fingercracks you can find. 11+, but very well protected etc. Lots of other goodies at the needles.
As Guy said, Tokopah Reality on Lower Tokopah Dime is amazing and has not seen a second ascent of the full route! 5 pitches, 11a at a well protected crux and a beautiful camp sire only 2 hrs from the trailhead. 15-20 mins to the base of the route. Other cool climbs on those domes!
Sunspot dihedral is better than PV and can be linked with the Polish route or escape from Poland on the same trip!
I heard the Harding route on conness is kind of an easier and chose version of Harding route on Mt. Conness.
Dark Star and Sunspot, are ok...wouldn't waste my time with thise.
I loved S face of Charlotte Dome and SE face of Clyde Minarette.
OZ to gram traverse in toulumne
Silk road on Calaveras Dome
|
|
Gary
Social climber
From A Buick 6
|
|
I hear getting permits has become a real drag.
I've never had a problem getting a permit. Don't let that stop you.
|
|
ruppell
climber
|
|
Vitality
I was thinking alpine routes but your right. High Times(Silk Road) in not to be missed. They really don't get much better than that. Probably a good rest day route for Donini........ or maybe not. lol
Since someone pointed out Crofts new routes on Merriam might as well put up a vote for his variation route on Mt. Goode. It doesn't suck. Goode is also a pretty easy day trip.
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
|
|
Dude, YOU are going to CALIFORNIA?!? Nothing but choss here.
Seriously though, Just follow Vitaly around. Whatever he's doing is what is "happening."
|
|
adam d
climber
CA
|
|
I want to climb the Bean Pole!
|
|
August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
|
|
If you are looking for 5.10/11, Mithral is on the easy side. But if you are in good hiking shape, it is very doable as a day climb. With a light day pack, the round trip hike is maybe 8 hours and for a 5.11 climber the climb should be no more than 4. I've not been down that way for a while, but I would think a day permit would be easier than a camping permit. If you take everything up the climb, you can exit out the east ridge.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
The single best pitch on all of them in the corner on The Bloody Corner.
Let us know!