If you hang the draws, it's a pinkpoint.

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Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 10:30pm PT
Ruppell you got it bro! I will accept that. Still clipping a draw and then the rope rather than just the rope.

A repoint for me, means walking up to the base of the climb, racking draws, and leading it free. That's it.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 10:34pm PT
Lol!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
May 6, 2015 - 10:34pm PT
Seriously though

I wonder what the hardest climb ever done barefoot is. Cause realistically that would be the hardest true freeclimb ever done.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
May 6, 2015 - 10:36pm PT
Almost as fun as fixed lines.

But not nearly as fun as gondolas
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 10:37pm PT
I wonder what the hardest climb ever done barefoot is. Cause realistically that would be the hardest true freeclimb ever done.

Agreed
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 6, 2015 - 10:40pm PT
So you can never redpoint a steep route that has existing fixed chain draws. Interesting.

You can. Just ignore what the guy fighting for a 5.6 on a neighboring crag thinks. :)
Even though I agree with general content of this thread, to me it seems like there is a lot of gray area here, especially when it comes to redpointing difficult walls etc. Fixed gear allows many climbers to send. If every piece on free rider was placed, or even every nut in the zigzag zags (half dome), how many redpoint would there be? It is acceptable to clip all that fixed shiet and claim a redpoint, and I don't object to that because there are more important things to care about....like if I should go buy some mango lassi tomorrow morning before yoga.

Stick clips, he'll yea!
nah000

climber
no/w/here
May 6, 2015 - 10:41pm PT
you can personally define it however you like...

doesn't change the agreed to consensus that pre clipping bolts doesn't negate a redpoint...

regardless methinks you're making mountains out of molehills...

if you're going to be serious in your ethical pedantry then in order to be consistent:

 all climbs done with climbing shoes must be considered aid climbs

 all climbs done free but using preplaced bolts must be considered pinkpoints [regardless of whether you preplace the draws]

 all first ascents that didn't place all bolts on lead and without weighting the rope must be considered aid climbs [seems to me bachar was a proponent of this one...]

i mean if you're going to get religion you need to make sure that you are so pure that you can hold up a placard saying "SINNERS REPENT: THE END DRAWETH NIGH AND YOU HAVE ALL SINNED AND COME SHORT OF THE KINGDOM OF HEAVEN VIA THE CLIPPING OF PREPLACED BOLTS AND THE SHORNING OF YOUR FEET WITH RUBBER

:)

nice canadianly polite rant though...
ruppell

climber
May 6, 2015 - 10:41pm PT
Barefoot and chalkless.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 10:45pm PT
You think if someone does RP the dawn wall or LA Dura dura, rock climbing mags will report it as a true redpoint and brush off those climbs as pinkpoints? ...

Brush off?? Those are fvcking badass pinkpoints!!! Imagine how much harder and more badass it would be if they redpointed!!! Something for the next generation to aspire to!

May 6, 2015 - 10:25pm PTSo you can never redpoint a steep route that has existing fixed chain draws. Interesting.

Just clip your own draws to the permadraws. Problem solved.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
May 6, 2015 - 10:45pm PT
if you climb it naked with only Johnson tied in, is that the same as solo?
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
May 6, 2015 - 10:45pm PT
To "borrow" from A League of Their Own (okay, I'm stealing it--semantic license),

"There are no brownie points for pink-points in climbing."

I just want us to have fun.

We can get so bound up in what others think:

and there goes part of our freedom of the hills, brothers.Just climb it like a man!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
May 6, 2015 - 10:47pm PT
if you climb it naked with only Johnson tied in, is that the same as solo?

Nope, Thats more hardcorp than freesolo....There are things worse than death.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 10:48pm PT
all first ascents that didn't place all bolts on lead and without weighting the rope must be considered aid climbs [seems to me bachar was a proponent of this one...]

He did say BY was A1

I just want us to have fun.

For sure! Just call it what it is! It leaves something for you to aspire to.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 6, 2015 - 10:52pm PT
Something for the next generation to aspire to!

Respect your opinion, but I believe the act of proving that it goes, with pre placed draws or whatever is the big step. Sending the route without those pre placed will make it a giant personal feat, but is in no way as groundbreaking as the first ascent. Well actually, I heard someone fell on the dawn wall and didn't pull the rope to re-lead the pitch, so technically it is not even a true send. So...maybe someone else can get a true pink point.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 11:03pm PT
Respect your opinion, but I believe the act of proving that it goes, with pre placed draws or whatever is the big step.

Agreed. But doing it while placing your own pro would make it the first redpoint. The Sa is never as hard because you know it goes.

Yes. Kevin didn't pull the rope after one of his falls on one of the upper hard traverse pitches, which in my mind makes that pitch a pink point if you consider stick clips. He did come back to the stance.
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
May 6, 2015 - 11:16pm PT
I totally agree with your definition Mike.

And although it seems pointless to take anything away from the Dawn Wall, I do agree it was a pink point. Totally f*#king badass and something I'll never be able to do......but still a pink point.

I think the idea brought up about someone going back and red pointing any of these routes is interesting. Will anyone care? Or will the masses (of climbers) just think of it as a second ascent?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 11:22pm PT
Badass pinkpoint. One which i will never accomplish. I don't see how watering down the definition of redpoint helps anyone.

It is a second ascent. They just clipped their own gear.

Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
May 6, 2015 - 11:27pm PT
It is a second ascent. They just clipped their own gear.

Braunpunkt!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 11:30pm PT
The English term "redpoint" is derived from the German Rotpunkt (point of red) coined by Kurt Albert in the mid-1970s at Frankenjura. He would paint a red X on a fixed pin that he could avoid using for a foot- or handhold. Once he was able to free-climb the entire route, he would put a red dot at the base of the route. In many ways, this was the origin of the free climbing movement that led to the development of sport climbing ten years later.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redpoint_%28climbing%29

*Origin: The late German climber Kurt Albert, who, at his local Frankenjura in 1975, painted his first red circle under Adolf Rott Ged.-Weg (5.10a), on Streitberger Schild, to indicate he’d freed every move. Once he successfully linked the moves, Albert filled in the circle, hence the term rotpunkt, or “red point.” Albert, according to Lynn Hill, might have borrowed the red-circle logo of the German brand Rotpunkt, a maker of coffee carafes.

http://www.climbing.com/skill/climbing-dictionary/
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 6, 2015 - 11:33pm PT
So if you stick clip, fall, don't pull the rope and climb from a stance you are lowered to is it technically a pink point yoyo ascent? Or not even a send because you did not lower all the way to the belay, which would qualify you for a yoyo? I suck at understanding all these technicalities...

I guess all the news stations forgot to add a stick clip and pre placed draws in their hands and feet report. :)

It will likely be the big featured article in the AAJ. I wonder if they will call it a yoyo pinkpoint there, or a redpoint?
Messages 21 - 40 of total 327 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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