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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 10:30pm PT
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Ruppell you got it bro! I will accept that. Still clipping a draw and then the rope rather than just the rope.
A repoint for me, means walking up to the base of the climb, racking draws, and leading it free. That's it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 10:34pm PT
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Lol!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Seriously though
I wonder what the hardest climb ever done barefoot is. Cause realistically that would be the hardest true freeclimb ever done.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Almost as fun as fixed lines.
But not nearly as fun as gondolas
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 10:37pm PT
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I wonder what the hardest climb ever done barefoot is. Cause realistically that would be the hardest true freeclimb ever done.
Agreed
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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So you can never redpoint a steep route that has existing fixed chain draws. Interesting.
You can. Just ignore what the guy fighting for a 5.6 on a neighboring crag thinks. :)
Even though I agree with general content of this thread, to me it seems like there is a lot of gray area here, especially when it comes to redpointing difficult walls etc. Fixed gear allows many climbers to send. If every piece on free rider was placed, or even every nut in the zigzag zags (half dome), how many redpoint would there be? It is acceptable to clip all that fixed shiet and claim a redpoint, and I don't object to that because there are more important things to care about....like if I should go buy some mango lassi tomorrow morning before yoga.
Stick clips, he'll yea!
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ruppell
climber
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Barefoot and chalkless.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 10:45pm PT
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You think if someone does RP the dawn wall or LA Dura dura, rock climbing mags will report it as a true redpoint and brush off those climbs as pinkpoints? ...
Brush off?? Those are fvcking badass pinkpoints!!! Imagine how much harder and more badass it would be if they redpointed!!! Something for the next generation to aspire to!
May 6, 2015 - 10:25pm PTSo you can never redpoint a steep route that has existing fixed chain draws. Interesting.
Just clip your own draws to the permadraws. Problem solved.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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if you climb it naked with only Johnson tied in, is that the same as solo?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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To "borrow" from A League of Their Own (okay, I'm stealing it--semantic license),
"There are no brownie points for pink-points in climbing."
I just want us to have fun.
We can get so bound up in what others think:
and there goes part of our freedom of the hills, brothers.Just climb it like a man!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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if you climb it naked with only Johnson tied in, is that the same as solo?
Nope, Thats more hardcorp than freesolo....There are things worse than death.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 10:48pm PT
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all first ascents that didn't place all bolts on lead and without weighting the rope must be considered aid climbs [seems to me bachar was a proponent of this one...]
He did say BY was A1
I just want us to have fun.
For sure! Just call it what it is! It leaves something for you to aspire to.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Something for the next generation to aspire to!
Respect your opinion, but I believe the act of proving that it goes, with pre placed draws or whatever is the big step. Sending the route without those pre placed will make it a giant personal feat, but is in no way as groundbreaking as the first ascent. Well actually, I heard someone fell on the dawn wall and didn't pull the rope to re-lead the pitch, so technically it is not even a true send. So...maybe someone else can get a true pink point.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 11:03pm PT
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Respect your opinion, but I believe the act of proving that it goes, with pre placed draws or whatever is the big step.
Agreed. But doing it while placing your own pro would make it the first redpoint. The Sa is never as hard because you know it goes.
Yes. Kevin didn't pull the rope after one of his falls on one of the upper hard traverse pitches, which in my mind makes that pitch a pink point if you consider stick clips. He did come back to the stance.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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I totally agree with your definition Mike.
And although it seems pointless to take anything away from the Dawn Wall, I do agree it was a pink point. Totally f*#king badass and something I'll never be able to do......but still a pink point.
I think the idea brought up about someone going back and red pointing any of these routes is interesting. Will anyone care? Or will the masses (of climbers) just think of it as a second ascent?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 11:22pm PT
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Badass pinkpoint. One which i will never accomplish. I don't see how watering down the definition of redpoint helps anyone.
It is a second ascent. They just clipped their own gear.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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It is a second ascent. They just clipped their own gear.
Braunpunkt!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 11:30pm PT
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The English term "redpoint" is derived from the German Rotpunkt (point of red) coined by Kurt Albert in the mid-1970s at Frankenjura. He would paint a red X on a fixed pin that he could avoid using for a foot- or handhold. Once he was able to free-climb the entire route, he would put a red dot at the base of the route. In many ways, this was the origin of the free climbing movement that led to the development of sport climbing ten years later.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redpoint_%28climbing%29
*Origin: The late German climber Kurt Albert, who, at his local Frankenjura in 1975, painted his first red circle under Adolf Rott Ged.-Weg (5.10a), on Streitberger Schild, to indicate he’d freed every move. Once he successfully linked the moves, Albert filled in the circle, hence the term rotpunkt, or “red point.” Albert, according to Lynn Hill, might have borrowed the red-circle logo of the German brand Rotpunkt, a maker of coffee carafes.
http://www.climbing.com/skill/climbing-dictionary/
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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So if you stick clip, fall, don't pull the rope and climb from a stance you are lowered to is it technically a pink point yoyo ascent? Or not even a send because you did not lower all the way to the belay, which would qualify you for a yoyo? I suck at understanding all these technicalities...
I guess all the news stations forgot to add a stick clip and pre placed draws in their hands and feet report. :)
It will likely be the big featured article in the AAJ. I wonder if they will call it a yoyo pinkpoint there, or a redpoint?
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