Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2015 - 09:02am PT
|
"Other" means exactly that.
Trying to start a discussion on cool routes that await the curious.
There are tons of routes that are hard to get to--Baffin Island comes to mind. Most routes there await a second simply because most folks go there for the specific reason to do a first. The ST Alaska guidebook has a trove cool-looking routes, and I assume many are singletons. But they are not routes for your average climbing enthusiasts, much like the Free Dawn.
The Sequoia/Kings routes are great examples of very cool routes that fly under the radar. Those are interesting, to me.
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
I don't think that killer looking line on Broderick, Unemployment Line, has had a second since it's somewhat recent FFA. Or maybe it has, I guess probably it has. That one looks really good.
I also saw a loooooong fixed line last weekend on Broderick's south face, in the notch between Liberty Cap. Looked like wild terrain - roofs, a long hairline seam... Of course it may not be an FA effort, who knows.
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2015 - 09:09am PT
|
Loooong fixed line? Last time I saw that it was a Mikey project.
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
You can barely make out the cord here. Looks rad.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Pretty sure that line on Broderick is an FA.
A fellow was asking about surrounding lines in a thread a while back.
Same spot.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
I don't think that killer looking line on Broderick, Unemployment Line, has had a second since it's somewhat recent FFA.
It had a second ascent. A friend and I tried to go and do it a month or so ago, but I took a wrong corner system and ended up with a big clusterfk and a bail. So I did a one pitch new route that needs a second ascent. It is called "Wrong Way Dumbass" 5.10a PG13 C1 :)
http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/a-new-classic-in-yosemite-the-first-free-ascent-of-the-unemployment-line-5-12
I would get out there this weekend if the snow melts...lol. Don't think about sending, but the climbing looks great!
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
V.... not to pat you on the back or Ball-Cup, but you seem to be catching on pretty quick to this game called climbing. If you go to the GOD.... the line to do is Desperadoes. Its so freaking obvious and dominates a sea of great climbing on the other spires. Kris was drawn to it immediately, I kept telling him.... we are not here to go do big-wall climbs
|
|
scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
|
|
Jim, your last-pitch variation on Vendetta has been repeated, probably not many times, though.
There was a big log in it when I looked a few years ago.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
I flunked reading comprehension on that point....so it's everywhere....and it doesn't say rock specific.
The Bourbon Bottle Route on Mt. Bradley
Avenali Avenue in the Avellano Towers
The original route on Torre Egger
The original route on the Ogre
Metanoia on The Eiger
Hayden Kennedy's new route on the 4 by 4 Wall
The Fitzroy Masiff Traverse
|
|
Greg Barnes
climber
|
|
Half of the 5.11 and harder routes in Tuolumne that are seriously runout...
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
I suspect the Yosemite Valley routes least likely to have an encore aren't the difficult ones as much as they are the ones considered not worth the effort. If nothing else, a really difficult climb calls out for repeats because of its challenge. In contrast, a climb whose difficulty consists of overcoming dirt, bay bushes, and enormous effort just to reach the route, but has a modest rating, offers little in reward other than novelty.
In the 1970 Roper (green) guide, he opined that the 1930's route on Stanford Point probably had no second ascent, because of a horrendous talus approach. I rather suspect that The Inconsolable Buttress hasn't been climbed by any but masochists after Roper's 1964 (red) guide came out, either. If there are Valley routes lacking a second ascent, I suspect most fall into this category.
John
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
|
|
Anybody done The Bay Bush next to the Tilted Mitten?
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
Unemployment line was repeated by I believe Cedar and partner soon after the FFA.
James was on it as well.
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
I know it's been repeated, but I wonder when someone last climbed Arches Direct. Maybe with prolonged drought, it will lose the sliminess.
John
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Unemployment line was repeated by I believe Cedar and partner soon after the FFA.
James was on it as well.
Cedar and James climbed it together as far as I can tell based on the article I posted up the thread. The line looks very nice.
|
|
bob
climber
|
|
Vitaly, you will get on unemployment line with no hopes of a send, but not the lurch? C'mon brother, its safe as can be. :-)
EDIT: Ughhhhhh, the lurch is nowhere nearly as striking!!!!!! My question answered to myself.
|
|
rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
|
|
First pitch of Flying Circus on Tahquitz. And the second pitch without the now (thankfully) chopped added bolt…
|
|
crazymountaingoat
Big Wall climber
modesto, ca
|
|
not yos...
but i put up a few that are still looking for a second.
hyw 108 (Sonora Pass)
-table mountain (unpublished area, request info for more), Planetarium 5.12c/d? (sport 30m)
-Chipmunk Flat, Squirel roof area, Hanta Virus Crack 5.12c (gear 2x-bd#3 35m)
Shuteye Ridge
-Dreamtime wall, Ghost Turds 5.12b/c (sport 80ft)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXMOYXHNlIU
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Vitaly, you will get on unemployment line with no hopes of a send, but not the lurch? C'mon brother, its safe as can be. :-)
Unemployment line looks nice and sunny. Lurch is shady and the guy drawn on the topo looks like he will kick me in the nuts! I am too afraid man!
Have you or anyone here done the Ribbon Candy? Even though I am sure it has seen a second 3rd and so on, the thing is not done as often. Friend and I bailed after 3 pitches (we had started up a different crack system prior and realized we are not on the same route. Wasted too much time with that to climb to the top of it) and never went back...Should find time..
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!