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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Feb 18, 2015 - 02:38pm PT
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@ Gary/Henry
In addition to the fireman's belay from below, include a proper top belay. Yes, that means two ropes- one for the rap and one for the belay-and at least one adult should man either the fireman or top belay. Kids are too easily distracted. A qualified adult will need to be at the top as well double check the system before each kid goes past the lip.
Last thing you want is a demonstration of how you simultaneously traumatize 20 boy scouts when they see their buddy crater...
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Feb 18, 2015 - 02:46pm PT
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The man in mystery, he trained me... A long time ago!
T.R.
Rib, bet!
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Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
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Feb 18, 2015 - 02:53pm PT
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Thanks, @kunlun_shan. Fascinating info. But no way would I ever consider rapping down El Cap, for the purpose of rapping down El Cap. Even the thought gives me the willies.
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travistodd1
Mountain climber
Camp Verde, Arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2015 - 04:36pm PT
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I guess some of the guys in the SAR team are certified instructors. Once I get some gear we are going to start training and learning the safety aspect. I'm looking forward to it, have to get used to the elevation change for where I will be doing all this... I've discovered that while I can hike all day at teh elevation I live at, the climb of 2000 to 2500 feet to where I work leaves me winded on simple tasks...
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Feb 18, 2015 - 08:28pm PT
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Plus I have great life insurance!
A word of friendly advice, non-rappelling related: You might wanna check your insurance's fine print. Many insurance policies are written/priced based upon your signed statement that you don't engage in a whole host of activities, including "rock climbing," and some even explicitly include "rappelling." If you die while doing any of these activities you said you don't do (the implication is "ever"), your policy can legally be voided.
Not that an insurance company would LOOK for a way out of paying up....
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 18, 2015 - 09:03pm PT
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I'm a licensed life insurance broker in Ontario.
If you have questions about your coverage, or live in Canada and want to buy some that will actually pay if you die climbing, email me via this website.
If I can get a girl going to K2 life insurance [yes, I *did* tell the company, and she was "rated" meaning she paid extra] then I can probably get it for you....
And no, she didn't die.
Although she's gonna!!!!!!
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 18, 2015 - 09:20pm PT
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Jones in LA,
You asked about the rap rig. The lower hand grabs (minds) the prussic. A nice feature of this is that it keeps your hand cooler and cleaner. I think that it speeds my rappels significantly for a few reasons. In the traditional rappel, one hand is above the belay device. Useless for braking. The brake hand is useless for working or navigating/bracing. In this configuration, both elbows are in play for feeding rope and both hands are available for braking, navigating and rope management. Having an autoblock that quickly releases is another optimal feature. I learned this from a UK Mountain Skills book in the 90's. It has been adopted by the AMGA for guiding.
In addition to performing really well, it is a good hedge against mis-rigged rap devices, rockfall and the unexpected.
Finally, and perhaps most importantly, the leader should also lead the rappels. This normally puts the second in the position of rigging their own rappel. With this set up, the following rappelers can be pre- rigged before the leader leaves the station. Peace of mind x 4.
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Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
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Feb 18, 2015 - 10:59pm PT
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Thank you very much @FlipFlop for taking the time to write out that explanation. I'm going to be doing some solo aid pitches during the next month or so and I believe I'll give this particular arrangement a try on the last raps off the wall.
Rich Jones
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 18, 2015 - 11:18pm PT
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Right on. Half the time that I post stuff here, it is surrealistic snark, but I'm pretty motivated for realistic climbing rigs. I've been scared a few times while on rappel. Out of rope, out of hope, if you get my drift. It sure opened my eyes. So I promote this sweet rig to help the masses die in other ways than rappelling.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Feb 19, 2015 - 05:33am PT
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@ Gary/Henry
In addition to the fireman's belay from below, include a proper top belay. Yes, that means two ropes- one for the rap and one for the belay-and at least one adult should man either the fireman or top belay. Kids are too easily distracted. A qualified adult will need to be at the top as well double check the system before each kid goes past the lip.
Last thing you want is a demonstration of how you simultaneously traumatize 20 boy scouts when they see their buddy crater...
Five years dead, and Batten is still reeling them.
"It's alive!"
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