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WBraun
climber
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Sep 22, 2006 - 01:26am PT
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Let us see ... we need bolts on some of those routes with blinking LED's so you can find them?
Yeah, I know .... stupid idea, ruins the adventure?
Nice photos ......
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2006 - 01:32am PT
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Werner, I don't know about the blinking LED, sort like the old days except replace the "E" with an "S".
The new "well bolted" routes climb like the old "less bolted" routes when you get lost on them... I don't really notice the difference. But I don't know which climb to check off when I am wandering on the knobs up there.
Probably shouldn't matter, it's all good.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Sep 22, 2006 - 07:19am PT
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Thanks for the offer Ed. Who broke my bolt? I hope it was on purpose and not accidental.
Roger
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Frozenwaterfalls
Ice climber
California
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Sep 22, 2006 - 06:58pm PT
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Not sure if the blinking LED would work since Dozier seems to have more of its share of shiny feldspar crystals so it would just be more shiny things to aim for that might or might not be bolts :). I guess I climbed the first two bolts of "project" up to the flake. When I saw the gold patina above the flake I had a tiny cam in, it just didn't look 5.7, so I took a long traverse with one cam partway across before committing to some moves to find myself at the third bolt of Ripples. Okay, I admit I asked my partner what the name of the route I was supposed to be on was and figured a route named Ripples would have some ripples :). I agree with Ed, other than the crack routes, we are all probably climbing 2+ routes at the same time while on Dozier. All good fun though! Got the topo now so time for some more adventure! That is assuming my partner for the day on Project+Ripples will agree to climb with me again. She was not as pleased with the pendulum potential on the traverse due to my route-finding issues :).
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George R
climber
The Gray Area
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Nov 24, 2006 - 12:29am PT
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Great pics Ed! The view from Dozier (and many other Tuolumne summits) is truly wonderful.
Regarding the new Dozier Dome routes:
To supplement the guidebook and photo-topo, I posted a description of "Ripple" on CF's excellent Tuolumne website: http://www.tuolumnemeadows.org/ Also posted some additional beta on "Errett Out" which should help with the route finding issues mentioned up-thread.
Principal players in the recent Dozier Dome new route activity have been Grant Hiskes, John Shewchuk and Billy Serniuk.
Others, including me, have been involved to a lesser extent. For those who might be interested in the style of the first ascents: the new routes were all created in ground-up style. All first ascent bolts were hand drilled on lead. In some cases (e.g., "Ripple"), the first ascent team added bolts later to eliminate runouts.
The new routes on Dozier range in difficulty from 5.6 to 5.10a. They are generally well protected, especially when compared to many of the old time Tuolumne moderates. (Not that there's anything wrong with the old runout ones.)
Cheers,
George Ridgley
Ps to Frozenwaterfalls: Definitely wasn't trying to sandbag you. Glad you got back on route and glad you liked it!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2006 - 01:48am PT
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thanks for the beta George, Dozier Dome is a cool place to climb.
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