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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Jan 10, 2015 - 12:58am PT
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Blah Blah Blah... what you have to know is that this climb is being done in the only way it is possible at this time in climbing history. It is as free as it can be done now. Respect the effort... in many years technology will make better shoes and climbers will be more shilled and the climbs ascent style will change with the times. It will be done in a push in 4 days with no fixed lines and no jugging to the high point and all the rest of the style points that are being used to argue about. The style being used now is what it takes now. The absolute best thing would be to not do the climb at all and wait until future generations are so good that it can be done in the best style. But we all know climbers have a hard time leaving things unclimbed. Had Harding waited 4 years to do the nose he would had a "modern pin rack" like the second ascent had and it would have been done in much better style. Do we want style to be the sole determiner in climbing? If we waited for future climbers to do things in better style then we wouldn't get much climbing done, now would we?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 10, 2015 - 01:03am PT
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Big Mike,
You are right - finding El Cap routes that don't have hanging belays limits the climbs by quite a lot (maybe to zero).
Even the Salathe' Wall and Nose have hanging belays up high.
It becomes a contrived definition (in my view) if you start counting a heel hook as "no hands stance".
All the little things that make things easier could be aid,
but for most of the El Cap free ascents, people accept some of them.
This gives themselves some level of challenge that does not involve crazy logistics for the purposes of inflexible rules.
That will seem wrong if you are accustomed to strict definitions of free climbing.
Back in the day, there were debates over what constituted free climbing on ice climbs. (The debates are probably still ongoing).
To me, it seemed like it was all aid, crampons, axes, etc. Then there are leashes or not. Wrist loops. Special handles that make wrist loops unnecessary. Sticky tape on handles. Sticky gloves, etc.
After awhile, my partner and I just agreed that there were a large number of factors/choices/rules. And none really matched a natural / simple definition of free climbing.
Each of them just made it easier.
So I take the same attitude to rock climbing.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Jan 10, 2015 - 01:29am PT
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Hey Charlie, this is the way the boys are doing it.
If you personally are unimpressed with what they're doing, then hey man, you're unimpressed.
Me? I'm impressed.
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Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
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Jan 10, 2015 - 01:59am PT
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jan 10, 2015 - 02:02am PT
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Charlie, where you from? And who taught you "the English?"
There's only one way to clear the air: Get your ass up there and do it right. Otherwise folks might think you're just sounding off while drinking that cheap sh#t.
That ain't sad, just silly - like some bald wanker complaining about combs.
JL
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Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
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Jan 10, 2015 - 02:05am PT
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Grab another oe, sit back, talk sh#t, take some pics. Cause only a few of us can climb 5.14.
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Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
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Jan 10, 2015 - 02:10am PT
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John, you're one of my heroes, I tried to talk to you on many occasions, jb tried to introduce me to you, Mari and mike, at biltzo's tried to stop you but you never had the time. Now here, you seem to care? Ask Bullwinkle. Dude.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jan 10, 2015 - 02:32am PT
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Charlie, man, head out to the Leap and free The Line. You'll feel better.
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Charlie B
Social climber
Santa Rosa, Ca
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Jan 10, 2015 - 03:10am PT
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John, I soloed the left ski track on sight, a route while you were in the "death zone" times have changed and aperently ethichics have too. They didn't free climb the route. If you wanta say other wise call me.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jan 10, 2015 - 04:35am PT
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A few years ago, I was in the Valley, and had just done the NEB of HCR. I ran into Tommy C. and started chatting with him, and we were both looking up at the setting sun light on Half Dome, which was really lit up.
I'm twice Tommy's age, but after looking at my hands, he realized I was a climber. I told him that when he gets old, like me, he will still love climbing, perhaps even more than now. He laughed, and appeared to be a real humble guy.
He's up there living life and I have much respect for both him and Kevin.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jan 10, 2015 - 04:53am PT
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Charie B,
Appears your ego is as big as the dawn Wall. Its not all about the climbing, sometimes its about the man. And based on your comments you dont measure up, i dont care how hard you climb. Tommy and Kevin are class acts, while you talk sh#t about them, and try to find ways to denigrate their achievements. Sad and pathetic.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Jan 10, 2015 - 05:02am PT
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I'm only 30 and know more about ethics then most. Have fun buying our books and paying for camping in the park, puts more money in my pocket to give me more free time to talk sh#t about you 5.10 climbers.
Really, all we need to know . . .
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l-b-1
climber
new york
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Jan 10, 2015 - 05:24am PT
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I'm only 30 and know more about ethics then most.
If only that were true for your spelling skills!
I'll never buy a Charlie Barrett guidebook, that's for sure.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 10, 2015 - 06:13am PT
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No, Keep your bad attitude and over blown ego away from the fun Friday thread!
Yo Charlie , can I call you chuck? You profit off climbing? good for you! May be I will find you to be the role model that the men climbing and recording the Free version of Mescalito/New Dawn, The Dawn Wall, are to many old and young.
30 years hmm lots of time to be a acknowledged for all your accomplishments.
I have never heard of you? You need good P.R. not this sad whine!
(actually may be I have herd the name Barrett ? do not know or care)
keep your ego and bad attitude away from a fun thread
you climb hard? what do you do for fun?
Baby steps to reach the point were you can profit off the masses that have ruined MY life's choosen activity Man you need a rock ennema , spelling and rules be damned ! Largo does not look for your hero worship, or any one else's.
The only reason that you put out any info is to compensate for...
Guide books have ruined climbing !
You have ruined climbing!
No one cares that the edges you pulled on are the smallest edges ever pulled on!
If you link them together and throw on the big stone you too can get the attention you crave
(craven, look it up!)
If you and your buttkissers can do a better job than the current four + ten or so buttkissers,
are doing, go prove it to largo. Feel free to deleat this thread. That is what is to be expected from a sour and unsupported, cur like you!!
what the post below means is what I was trying to say!! Thanx again to the **
Clear eyed and consistent Man from Strawberry, my hero Chuck! the Weedge, friend of no man not the mouse or the gnome or giant big mike he stands alone and also pisses. on you
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Jan 10, 2015 - 06:15am PT
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this thread is the story of a mole
criticizing a bird.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 10, 2015 - 06:19am PT
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Until someone does the whole thing top to bottom no falls, no hanging belays. I guess it ain't been free climbed?
Who signed a contract to agree to those stupid rules?
This is one of the most compelling projects in climbing and it's getting some great coverage that most of us really appreciate.
Why? Look at the damn route man! Holy crap it's the longest blankest part of el cap. A beautiful daunting line that at first consideration doesn't seem at all likely.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 10, 2015 - 06:40am PT
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Most of our climbing rules are contrived and silly. climb, enjoy the great outdoors and live to climb annother day. Ethics and rules only matter in FA's and FFAs. seems like these guys are useing sport climbing rules tweaked a bit to fit big walls. Totally legit untill a generation comes allong that makes cleaner rules the norm.
Charlie B comes accross like a real jealous, petty,mean, low life scum bag who kicks dogs and beats women.
that may not be the case in real life but that is how he is presenting himself here.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Jan 10, 2015 - 06:52am PT
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"Firsts" are not always pretty. Look at Skinner and Piana in '88. They got a lot of criticism too, but they were first, and that's important. They showed it was possible, later parties improved on that style.
Style is important, but mainly being honest about your style. These guys aren't hiding anything.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jan 10, 2015 - 07:07am PT
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and...
Scott Cosgrove did laps on the ski tracks when you were still in diapers if you were so lucky to have been in diapers,
So what.
I can not get over the fact that you think that the climbers aren't sending it as free as can be!
i will if you will
SHUT THE FCUK UP!!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jan 10, 2015 - 07:17am PT
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FUN thread!
Hey, guys are out on real rock. wHut-EV-errr!
To redeem yourself you must go to an area you have never been, climb what looks real without using any guide books or beta.
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