Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
|
|
thank you pinckbrown
for uploading these topos.
|
|
Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
|
|
Blue Wind was never 5.9
Amen brother!
|
|
steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
|
|
Jay Smith a few years ago at Indian Creek.
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
One thing's fer sure, Jay draws a pretty neat topo!
I have a hard time drawing a line on a map.
|
|
mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
|
|
Very cool, I did some of my first climbs there back around 1980
|
|
Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
|
|
Can't believe this fell off the front page.
BUMP!!
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
|
|
^^^^^
Yeah, no shit! This is one of the better little tidbits of historical lore and badassness to pop up on this site of progressively degrading content in a long time.
I particularly liked the part on the F.A. list for Cal Domes where Smith wrote down the name of the route as "Wall of the Worlds" and not "War of the Walls". Guess that puts that debate to an end.
Edited to add: War of the Walls and not World of Walls. Typo, my bad!
|
|
Tim Camuti
Trad climber
CA
|
|
I will update the Bear River information that I have. If people ever need topos for the area, please PM me.
Tim
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
Jay Smith did a route in The Needles (CA) called Wicked. If that turns up let us know.
|
|
Timmc
climber
BC
|
|
I think the respectful tactic is to delete this thread and ask Jay for permission to post these topos. PM me if you want his email.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Bob did ask Jay, via phone message.
Although he has not heard back yet.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
Got one of the devils tower route?
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Paul Crawford wasn't on the FA of Wall of the Worlds. It was Jay Smith and Jeff Altenburg.
(Jay Smith and Rick Sumner had done the first 2 pitches 2 years prior, also).
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
OK, I see what you mean.
I agree the commonly used names for it are "Wall of the Worlds" and "War of the Walls".
It was called "War of the Walls" in the Harlin guide,
and once a name gets into print, it can be hard to shake!
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Yes, Jay's topos are very nice.
I've always been a fan of topos (or line drawings) because they can show features which may not show at all on a photo.
Photo overlays are possibly most useful to show where a route starts, on a big/wide cliff.
|
|
pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2015 - 10:32am PT
|
This is a Topo of a route that I completed on Calaveras Dome in 1978. I have never told anyone about it. It starts at the left leaning most lefthand arch. I include an overview to show the location.
Not related to Calaveras but another route that I have rarely mentioned and have not finished is the Interior Traverse. This starts on the 2nd pitch of Corrugation Corner at Lovers Leap. It goes through the rock toward Eyeores, basically behind the whole Travelers Buttress formation. I actually
got 2/3's the way through and could see daylight from the Eyeores side. Terrible sideways squeeze
chimney with narrow sections forcing one to squeeze up and over, then down and over several times. No way to put in anchors back then but a compact lithium drill and small diameter bolts would at least give one a false sense of security nowdays. I also began to realize that a 150' rope might not make it all the way. It is so tight that you have to decide which way you want your head turned, forward or backward. My partners thought I and it were crazy. I had tunneled through Monk Rock boulder (which I have never heard of or seen anyone repeat) and was feeling pretty brave. On Monk Rock one starts to the right of the old Robbins bolt ladder and you come out facing the main trail. I include a photo of me coming out of Monk Rock. I hope someone attempts to complete the Interior Traverse one day. FYI, my fighting weight is 5' 10" 157 lbs.
Good Luck and God Bless on that climb!
Bob Pinckney
|
|
lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
|
|
Bob
Looking at your Calaveras topos reminded me that I still have a packet of same Chuck gave me over 25 years ago. Collectors item! Thanks
lars
|
|
pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2015 - 07:02pm PT
|
As I mentioned earlier, most of these Topos are not originals, but some are. So I figured it would be better to overpost rather than underpost. I would expect Clint to be the one to sort all of this out. He has done a fantastic job of archiving at Stanfords web site.
Hammer Dome area (Lo Cal)
|
|
RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
|
|
This is one of the best threads in a long time. Thank you so much for sharing and keep 'em coming!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!