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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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I ain't even a pebble pincher and I think there's something wrong with moving the boulder. Part of the challenge of the problem is gone now, like it or not. Flat landing in the sand vs. having to carefully monitor your position and keep your sh*t together as you get higher.
To paraphrase from the idiotic retrobolter's quotebook:
"If you don't like the boulder, don't land on it!!"
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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I wonder how many times JGill doctored a landing? Getting up considering the consequences is normal course and speed outside the gym.
It is a national park now people. The old rules don't apply. Kicking a few rocks out of the way is one thing, moving a big ass boulder is another.
If we don't adopt a low impact approach in National Parks, we are blowing off our own foot.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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If you do boulder, OTOH, instead of wearing out the base areas of 5.8 routes while waiting your turn, then you no doubt know a few people with life altering ankle injuries. It's an unfortunately common part of outdoor bouldering.
I'm all for cleaned up landings, to a reasonable extent(**). If you have to look 2-3x at old pix on MP.com and still squint to see what happened, I'd say whoever did this did a pretty good job for pretty good reasons and knew exactly what they were doing. I have to say thanks, myself.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I heard somebody took a crap where the rock used to be and it's now v5 because of it.
Way harder than it was in the 80's.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Looking at the photos, it's not clear to me that anything was moved.
Everything changes with the angle at which the photo was taken.
To make an accurate comparison, you will need to exactly reproduce the
angle of one of the original photos and make a side by side comparison.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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A friend was out there within a few days of it happening and I kept quite, but the cat is out of the bag
From a text message on 10/28:
Went out to climb on White Rasta someone or probably more than one person has maliciously "Pried" the boulder back out of original location ....this has happened since last week...since I've already climbed on it then... Looks like recently this happened....they didn't even try and landscape just a pry and leave...looks like sh#t...I've fell before...u don't hit it anyway?...some major "Noob" punk crankers have commited Blasphemy?... Pretty messed up... Post this up ..Johnny...what a travesty of honor?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks. To me, this account from your friend who is familiar with the old location is more convincing than the photos.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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If boulder stays moved, loss of fear factor denotes at least a three number downgrade.....
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Psilocyborg
climber
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Moving a boulder....what a pussy.
The most interesting thing in this thread though is pooping on a turtle. Geneous!
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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I don't get why some one would even consider this, let alone do it. This is still on my mind from earlier today. I remember finally sending this 1983 and I was stoked
No pads And my friends all siting on that rock watching, not spotingg me, falling from the top you will not hit the rock! I'm just disgusted with the thought of this. I would like to hope it's a BAD TROLL? Next some one will make the Function a sport route? Whoe ever did this YOUR GONA DIE!
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Friend
climber
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F#cking BOGUS. That climb was an inspiration and life-changing milestone for a lot of folks. Now it is less so.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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F*#king with that particular landing is poor form, in so many ways. The obvious question is this: why, now, after 40 years and gazillions of ascents, is it suddenly so imperative that we move that boulder? The height, the exciting landing, the big moves, the history, all combine to create that awesome Rasta mystique. EVERYBODY who has done the White Rasta remembers that particular road hazard as a tangible part of the experience. The question is not was it OK to move the boulder; the question is why move it at all, and what f*#ked-up little asshat would presume to do so?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Hey there's that super strong bald guy who solos all my projects...
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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I have never sent this problem. I've always said this would be the culmination of my climbing career. I've tempted myself several times over twenty five years (Yeah,I'm a puss). I would not feel the same if I actually did it with the boulder moved. I vote lame.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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Are the parks folks going to put the guardrail back under the Thimble?
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BruceAnderson
Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
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That rock at the base was always referred to as the Melon Smasher when I was spending a lot of time out there. I also never topped that out (pre-pad days), but it sure is an iconic problem.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Had the boulder been in its original location, anyone could experience what Long and Bachar experienced.
JL's account was about doing the FA and the Magic of being there in the unknown, up high.
Just sayin'
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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If this thing were harder than beginner grades from the 70's, in the middle of a beginner area from the 70's, nobody would say a thing about it.
This and the bolts on Double Cross - in the land of Barney Rubble - among a bunch of never-has-beens and their lost nubile disciples - bitching that a f*#king V3 just isn't as dangerous as it was back in the day.
Good f*#king god, people, have little pride here and STFU.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Hahaha!
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