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WBraun
climber
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Sep 14, 2006 - 11:11pm PT
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No we lower him on our ropes from the top. No rappelling will happen.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Sep 14, 2006 - 11:14pm PT
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Ron I should clarify. My statement was in regards to andanother saying "Sucks to be that guy. But it's still a MILLION times prouder than chipping a hold."
Not in regards to the actual guy needing a rescue
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Sep 14, 2006 - 11:20pm PT
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I couldn't imagine launching up on a wall without the knowledge of how to rap with a haul bag, etc, and practice it and practiced it, to make sure the theory and the reality are the same. Where is the personal responsibility in that?
Having to be rescued because you don't want to carry a couple of hooks or a pin or two is pretty irresponsible as well. You don't have to have them racked, just leave them in your bag... A lot of fixed gear that people rely on can become unfixed pretty quick when a cable snaps or someone decides they want to add to their pin rack.
I hope the person gives a large donation to YOSAR once on the ground. It's the least they can do.
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Euroford
Trad climber
Chicago, IL
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Sep 14, 2006 - 11:20pm PT
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no kidding?
it kinda bums me out that this is even possable.
i really love that "i'm fuked if i can't handle what i've gotten myself into" type of feeling. sad to know you can get down just becouse you want down.
why don't you just lower him a can of planters nuts and call it a day?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 14, 2006 - 11:24pm PT
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This is going to be interesting. Take care, Werner.
best , PH
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 14, 2006 - 11:24pm PT
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I just brought this poor guys delima up because the bail off option was stressed here so much. As we see sometimes that seems like it doesn't work either.
Go easy on ourselves folks we're all only human.
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Mimi
climber
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Sep 14, 2006 - 11:36pm PT
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Be careful out there Werner.
Hobo: Right on regarding your on-topic post! It's a proud thing to bail if you realize you're in over your head. Route selection and knowing your limits are key. You're responsible for yourself up there regardless of YOSAR's presence. I'm glad the guy isn't injured.
It'll be interesting to hear why he wants out. If he's such a beginner, he should've selected a route easier to retreat from.
EDIT: You're right, it's not proud. It can be downright embarrassing and frustrating until you regroup and get back up there on it or something else and kick ass. It is sooo cool up there. I can't wait to get back. As YC and DR said back in 1972, "Something well begun is not lost."
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Ouch!
climber
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Sep 14, 2006 - 11:36pm PT
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Sometimes people get in over their heads, get stuck, freeze up, whatever. Death penalty might be a little harsh for human failings of overestimating their ability.
Impressionable people all over are getting into trouble after reading about and watching the exploits of some of our most skilled extreme adventurers.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 14, 2006 - 11:43pm PT
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Newsflash!
Climber calls for Werner to be lowered to hold his hand while he goes potty.
lol
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 14, 2006 - 11:51pm PT
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JIMB
Go mow your lawn, it's full of weeds.
You fuking screwballs need to get off of Ammons case.
Go take a good look at your selves in the mirror.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Sep 15, 2006 - 12:20am PT
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I couldn't agree more Mike. Every time I go up the big stone a small kit is part of the rack. A holder 2 bits and a 4 or 5 rivits is esential, in my opinion. And that is what I got out of Ammons statement as well
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hobo
climber
PDX
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Sep 15, 2006 - 12:21am PT
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Just to clarify, I think it's proud to come down from a route because you can't make it go clean. Coming down from a route cuz it's too hard is respectable and responsible, but not necessarily proud.
On other topic:
I can't fukin imagine being lowered all the way off el cap. How long does it take for the lower? Do you guys just tie a few of your real long ropes together? I imagine that two sets of lines (one for lower, one for belay) would have to be strung from top to bottom. Is that how you guys are gonna do it? Wild!
Werner: If you remember it would be cool to see exactly how many feet el cap overhangs in that spot, i.e. measure from where the rope touches to the base.
Alex
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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Sep 15, 2006 - 12:58am PT
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so after ya'll lower the guy, do any SAR guys get to rap the line?
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Sep 15, 2006 - 01:00am PT
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I do not think you guys should pass judgement on the solo wall climber until all the facts are in.
First thing is to get the guy safely down.
Juan "Man I have a hot nurse" De Fuca
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 15, 2006 - 01:03am PT
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No Matt, no one rappels the lines. We will pull them back up to the top.
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anachronism
Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
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Sep 15, 2006 - 01:04am PT
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if you can't do it clean (and it's been done clean) and you bail, and you get your own ass outta the mess, that is proud. Getting rescued cuz you can't figure it out (chip chip or not) is not proud. Poor guy.
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Loom
climber
The Whiteboard Jungle
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Sep 15, 2006 - 01:08am PT
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IN THE
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Sep 15, 2006 - 01:12am PT
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That andanother is a screwball there can be no doubt.
I know if I thought my life was in danger and I needed to chip something to stay alive, I'd do it in a heart beat.
YOu fvckers that think climbing is some sort of test of manhood or rite of passage or some great ethical debate, or something like that, I suggest you go get yourself some situation that threatens your life every goddamned second, and that gives you no choice whatsoever in the matter.
Then you'll know that you'll do whatever it takes to stay alive.
I know little old ladies who have more guts, and a much better attitude, than some of you wankers.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Sep 15, 2006 - 01:22am PT
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What is the story on bailing from p10 on the Trip? Assuming you tossed or left your bag and just went with some gear and ropes, how would one get down from there and what would be required? Is it a particularly challenging retreat from where he is...?
[ Edit: I'm not advocating tossing or leaving the bag, just simplifying the question... ]
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Mimi
climber
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Sep 15, 2006 - 01:25am PT
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The route winds around a lot so intermediate points would have to be clipped. The bag will pose a problem. CM's book states at P4, "three rappels to ground on bolted Virginia anchors or 330' to ground."
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