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Patrick Sawyer

climber

Originally California now Ireland

Sep 15, 2006 - 03:33pm PT

Indeed, indeed... To one of the Stonemasters who befriended me, Kevin you are a most welcome addition to the SuperTaco world, a most welcome addition.

I hope all is well with you dude.

Thanks Roger for pointing it out as I never saw that thread.

I have all the time in the world for Kevin. All the time.

Mimi

climber

Sep 15, 2006 - 08:29pm PT

More stories of your adventures would be much appreciated.

climber

Cardiff by the sea

Sep 15, 2006 - 09:05pm PT

Hey there Kevin! What brings you to this neighborhood?

Just thought I would say hi. Sorry I missed you and everyone at Georges party a couple of weeks ago. I am currently building a climbing gym in Phoenix, and wasn't able to make it.

I hope you are enjoying being a daddy.

Best Regards
Tommy T

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Sep 15, 2006 - 11:22pm PT

Kevin,
That route is so good that I wouldn't worry about doing too much more that making sure the original number of protection points still remain. Those fixed pins on the first pitch would be my main concern because I don't think any other gear would be as solid or at least seem as solid. Whether to switch to bolts or somehow cement in beefy pins to preserve the original flavor is the dilemma. Space Babble is the crown jewel of Middle Rock and a true masterpiece. Little is visible from below in all of the rippling smoothness and just enough shows up to keep you from stalling. You just have to narrow your focus, forget about the fall, and flow upwards. Even when it showed up, I stopped putting in pro after a while because it broke the spell of pure movement. No other line on Middle requires the same kind of groove.
I remember doing Black Primo with you before getting up on SB and feeding on your enthusiasm. I also remember the chirp of disbelief that came out of Ron Kauk who was doing the traverse below when you yelled down that I wasn't carrying a chalk bag. It made my day since his recollection of the route, being not so tall, was surely one of desperation. Reach is a real help on those routes.
I also remember failing on the crux of Jigsaw in part because of the foil-thin Clevenger hanger (with nothing else anywhere nearby) got into my head.
I talked to Scott Burke about rebolting on Middle. It sounded like the routes were slowly getting equipped with stainless bolts by him and a few other hardcore face freaks. Don't sacrifice wildness for access or popularity, these lines are unique and should be preserved as the gems that they are. Plenty of bolts elsewhere.
Fond memories all, Steve

Rick A

climber

Boulder, Colorado

Sep 16, 2006 - 08:52am PT

Hi, Kevin. Long time!

Here’s a shot of you ice climbing. Even when the ice was good, winter in Camp 4 was a grim existence, despite the luxurious heated bathrooms.

One memory of your musical talents sticks out. One night I walked up to a campfire where you were strumming the guitar. You greeted me with a jovial, “Rock-omazzo!”
I see a light bulb go on as inspiration strikes, and then you start singing, accompanying yourself on the guitar:

“Rock-a-ma-zoe in the bosom of Abraham…”

Thirty years later, whenever I hear the tune of that old spiritual, these are the lyrics that come to mind.

Rick

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Sep 16, 2006 - 11:00am PT

Hi Kevin and welcome to Supertopo.
It has been quite some time.

Got any pics of your old brown mini truck with the home made color coordinated shell?
'Twas a very distinctive set up for the times.

All those Middle Apron routes are so creative and stimulating; the other side of your contribution which I've much appreciated are the offbeat yet distinguished multi pitch crack line gems which you and Chapman pioneered for us, often my favorite tours, things like Windfall, Beggar's Buttress, Joker/Thief and the like.
('Never sampled The Warbler (not your route but your namesake? I forget the story) or Ramblin' Rose).

I still see Teri Martin once in a blue moon and more so her daughter Lisa, who lives out her in Boulder with her husband John Christie and kids.

Cheers,
Roy McClenahan

Patrick Sawyer

climber

Originally California now Ireland

Sep 16, 2006 - 11:44am PT

Kevin, I usually climbed with Claude Fiddler, Jim Keating, David Yerian, Hank Ward, Bob Jones (some) but also some with Ed Barry, Dave Hitchcock, Lew Dawson, Rich Jack, couple of times with Charlie Porter.

Unfortunately I partied too much and didn’t get enough climbing in when I hung out in the Valley off and on from 1975 to 1977.

I never climbed a route with you (I don’t think) but use to boulder with you and partied some.

I’m 50, 5’6” and I use to be blonde, from the Bay Area and I had an old 1948 Ford pickup with a home-made wood camper and the truck was ‘psychedelic’ color as when I was sanding the body down to repaint all the old paints came through (the truck must have been painted five or six times in its life) so I just shellacked it over. Always got stopped crossing the Central Valley going from the Valley to Walnut Creek/Lafayette. The truck was a magnet for CHP, deputy sheriffs and city police (Manteca, Oakdale, etc).

I only have a few pix of me climbing (never took a camera along climbing) so I’ll try and dig them up to see if you recognise who I am. I have an box in the closet with some old photos as well as some undeveloped film that I hope to develop and see if they are any good, perhaps there is one of the truck. I’d think though that after 20-30 years the film may not be any good.

Rick A

climber

Boulder, Colorado

Sep 16, 2006 - 11:53am PT

Kevin,
Yeah, the decades are rolling by.
That's one of the smears below the trail to Half Dome. I think we were just top roping...pretty thin ice. I rememember Charlie Porter was there that day, but I don't remember who else.
Rick

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Sep 16, 2006 - 12:42pm PT

Here Patrick,
A few very recent photos of your old buddys and a few others to boot.
Kevin, I'm sure you remember all of these folks well.

Dave Hitchcock & Dave Bircheff:

Jim Keating:

Ellie Hawkins & Phil Bircheff:

Mike Ferrel & Phil Bircheff:

Ferrel, Tom Carter, Bob Harrington:

Patrick Sawyer

climber

Originally California now Ireland

Sep 16, 2006 - 01:06pm PT

Wow Tarbuster, thanks for the pix, when were they taken?

Haven't seen Jimbo since...?

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Sep 16, 2006 - 01:07pm PT

Alrighty then,
Just a couple more to welcome Kev' here.
For me, this opportunity to put us all back together is what I most value in Super Topo.
These all taken during a fairly impromptu gathering July of '06.

Chuck Cochrane, Bill Russel, and Carter during a hilarious 'ole story sesh:

Rick Cashner & Ken Yeager:

Carter and Dennis Oakeshott:

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Sep 16, 2006 - 01:24pm PT

That's a good one Kath,
er I mean eKatBallerinaNijinskaHotBabeoftheWayBack...

Bill Nichol, Clevenger & Son:

Phil Bircheff, Ellie Hawkins, Bob Finn:
Base of Werner's Wiggle.
Bob Finn is a personal favorite of mine.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Sep 16, 2006 - 01:48pm PT

Here's another of Cochrane in illustrious tall tale form:

More Carter, Keating, Harrington:

And a very distinguished Oakeshott:

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Sep 16, 2006 - 02:01pm PT

OK, here's the last of some substantial thread drift,
But I think Kevin 'gits the pic-hure.

Yes, Kevin, maybe there's a few Warbler snapshots finding their way onto your scanner as we speak?
Man I bet you got some gems from the bad 'ole days...

Tarbousier convinced Phil to the takin' of a dram at a time honored overlook:
Clyde Minaret, Ritter/Banner above Red's Meadow, Devil's Postpile,
From San Juaquin Ridge/Minaret Summit.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Sep 16, 2006 - 07:08pm PT

Ok,
To straighten out the collateral way back to the future snapshot tread drift,

Here's a photo of The Warbler (Kevin) I ripped from, er, borrowed from Falkenstein and I think Tom Carter may have taken it:

Who are them other longhairs?
This is before my time I think...