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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Man, I haven't seen this one before.
What a report, and what photos, Woo hoo!!!!!\
I wanna go!!!!!
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L
climber
Training for the Blue Tape Route on Half Dome
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Really nice TR--great photos, too. Thanks for posting it in '06...where the 'ell was I and why didn't I see this?
Good bump le bruce.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Apr 23, 2010 - 09:51pm PT
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hey there say, thanks for the bump with this....
really nice stuff....
:)
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Nohea
Trad climber
Sunny Aiea,Hi
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Apr 23, 2010 - 11:42pm PT
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Summer is coming (well it never leaves here) and the Bugaboos are calling. I was in BC this past winter and what a beautiful place, Yes I will go there and climb those very cliffs.
Thank You,
will
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 24, 2010 - 02:42am PT
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proud
Thanks for the write up, On the list for someday, when it is time.
Mucci
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cmclean
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2010 - 02:14pm PT
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Thanks everyone for the (relatively) recent comments! It was funny re-reading my TR, in particular on the day we got rained out how we planned to do McTech Arete, NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire, and W Ridge of Pigeon. It's always easy to say what enchainments we would have done if the weather had cooperated. :) We went back to the Bugs in 2008 and in a long day did the first two, but adding in Pigeon would make for a huge day.
@le_bruce: The OW pitch was pretty hard at the time but I did not have much wide crack experience then (and still don't now). I've only done a few valley 5.10 OW pitches and it was nothing like those. I would liken it to stacking a couple of the crux sections of Traveler Buttress on top of each other (similar width, steepness, and I did both right side in). The rock in the bugs is super frictional which makes everything more secure, and I'm sure with some reasonable technique it would not be so bad. A party right after us brought a #6 for the OW and since you rap the route you can leave it at the anchor after that pitch, which might be a nice way to make it a bit safer as well.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Way to dig up a great TR thread! The Bugs are dreamy!
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Bump bump!!!!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Very cool!!!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Cmclean - thanks for the reply! I think you've inspired a bunch of us here on ST - the best outcome a TR author can hope for.
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imStein
Trad climber
Triumph, Idaho
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What a fine place. I enjoyed your report.
Well done!
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Sonic
Trad climber
Hilly, but no rocks Folsom, California
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Aug 12, 2011 - 02:04pm PT
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Must have missed this awhile back! Can't wait to hit up the bugs!!
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