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WBraun
climber
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Sep 13, 2006 - 02:16am PT
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No Mimi
The slab pitch up higher.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Sep 13, 2006 - 01:47pm PT
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Kevin,
Great to hear from you!
That was a fun day on the lower third of El Cap in our EB’s I still remember you saying “you sure you want to do that” as I held all those hangars in my hand.
It was a simple experiment on trying to raise the standard of a route that perhaps not all could benefit from without a little extra work on their part. I remember one positive outcome from it when Bridwell came to me shortly after and said a couple of guys asked him what slab route they should warm up on to prepare themselves for that Salathe pitch. That attitude I thought was the result I was looking for, guys willing to step up to the bar.
You were a visionary with your foresight and concerns on how others would rectify the obstacles, as I heard it more bolts were added and large holds were chipped again reducing a great pitch to the level of that climber that day.
You know I would fall on my sword if I ever doctored a route so I could climb it. There are better climbers out there to come along someday and do it they way it should be done.
Mike
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john hansen
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2006 - 01:50am PT
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This is kind of parallel to some of the on going threads
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 15, 2006 - 02:35am PT
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Kevin and Mike,
Thanks for sharing the story of the FFA of the Free Blast! And explaining about the bolts as well. It's great to get it straight from the source; all I had was a very hazy recollection of a report in Mountain some 30 years ago. A really cool snapshot in time.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Sep 20, 2006 - 08:33am PT
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Cool stuff, interesting history. JMO but the slab pitch has gotten easier over the years as a hook hole has opened up a bit more since the early 90's.
I do have to ask if Bridwell hasn't changed his "stance" a bit after 'work' at places say like Dry Falls (Palm Springs)...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Bump
Just for some really great posts about climbing.
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Valerio
climber
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Hi,
this is my personal topo of SOD drawn pitch by pitch in 1997. The rivet marked along the pitches was counted rivet by rivet... this could be a point to see the situation before and after the 1997. I remember some new bolts at the belays, because some of the original ones were very rusty and unsafe.
No idea for the holes/drilled hooks instead but I think at that time there were more than the FA.
Cheers
Valerio
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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I'd be kind of sad if more of the anchors on the Salathe were bolted. Bolted wall anchors are obviously a lot more convenient but the number of natural anchors I had to build when I climbed the route really added to the historic and adventurous feel of the route. Hauling off a natural anchor in particular was kind of exciting after having bolted anchor after bolted anchor on so many other Valley walls and anchor creation required some real though to ensure there was both strength and enough room to work while not gobbling up all the resources for the next pitch.
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