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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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I don't like to fix anymore especially on popular routes. I have had people re-fix my ropes and take my carabiners. I have had people haul over my ropes burning the sheath. I also worry about someone knocking rocks off and having them damage my ropes. I have found that I put less time into the route by just going for it even if I have to sleep close to the ground.
Fixing ropes can be an invitation for some climbers to use them and jump ahead of other parties. Maybe I am paranoid but, I have seen all these things happen.
Take your time and enjoy the route.
Ken
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Lambone, you should get your facts straight before spouting off.
I was one of the riggers for the Huber bro film. We stripped the lines almost every day so that they would NOT be in the way of other climbers.
This was the Huber bro's request to reduce the circus factor. I think we/they did a great job with clean up. We even packed out our own sh#t on top of the captain. What other film crews that you know does that?
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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sounds like those hubers do their best not to interfere with us wankers. good on em. not to mention they climb like bad mofo's. are they gonna be tryin to do the nose in the fall? jus curious.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Haa haa, thanks for setting me straight on "the glitch" Tom, haa haa.
Yes, they will go for it again. It looked like they were going to be really close the day Thomas fell. Sorry for the thread drift....
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Hi Ammon, bro...sorry if my facts are wrong. i wasn't reffering to your work or effots with the Hubers.
When I was in the Valley in early June (when i saw and talked to you), you guys hadn't started work on the Huber film yet. The Hubers wern' in the Valley yet, you were waiting for them.
We wen't up to get on South Seas, and met a guide from YMS at the base of the Nose. I asked him what was up with the fatty ropes hanging down from Stovelegs that appeard nobody was using.
He said they were the Hubers ropes left over from the year before. Being a local and "in the loop" I took his word at face value.
That's all i know, sorry if I was wrong about that. And thanks for answering my question as to whether the ropes were still there, I am glad you guys cleaned up all your stuff at the end of the project, that is way cool.
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Mimi
climber
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If you're around Ammon, please explain to the community why you recently nailed a section of sandstone in Zion that had gone clean. Sorry I don't recall the route's name. I guess you were just being "efficient" as you explained to me previously when I asked you about this issue.
Cheers,
Mimi
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Kevster
Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
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So Mimi I guess you don't aid any routes that have gone free right?
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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I've done it two ways. Fix to Sickle and then go up and drop some ropes in the morning to friends, or just go up there in the late afternoon and snooze. It isn't the best ledge, but it is a hell of a lot better than some places I have stayed on. At least it isn't covered with ice.
Mimi's idea sounds cool, but I have never done it that way. The penjis are what I have wasted time on for sure. That jump penji into the stovelegs is one of the funnest things I have ever done, though. It would be a drag to miss it.
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Mimi
climber
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No, Kev, I haven't done any lately. And if I didn't think I could do a route in good style, I wouldn't get on it. I don't believe in lowering the bar for my own gain if it affects the next party's experience; i.e., f#king up the stone. As long as you're not being destructive, nobody gives a f#ck. This is a question of ethics, not style. If you can't tell the diff tween the two, dust off the thinking cap. The question still stands.
How's it going BASE. I threw the variation idea out there since they were crunched for time and didn't want to fix that many ropes. Hopefully, he'll write a TR and post pics of their adventure.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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mimi,
you calling out ammon for nailing when he should have gone clean? perhaps a new thread?
just curious....
EDIT:
mimi, does your sh#t not stink? please advise
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Mimi
climber
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I haven't read the rules of proper thread posting. Instead of attacking me, why not address the question. Or are you a member of the current ghetto speedclimbing team?
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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not attacking
do you not feel that your ? of ammon may be perceived as atacking?
ok, the not smelley sh&& tin was not nice.
but really, are your climbs so pure that others who are less pure must be held to your standards? that is my perception. my peception is only based upon what you post here since i have not met you.
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Mimi
climber
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My climbs so pure...? My standards? You obviously have no clue. You were wrongly indoctrinated and must be deprogrammed.
As soon as your particular style becomes a rationalization for a poor and ultimately destructive ethic, then it’s time to step back and see what you’re supporting. As soon as anyone feels they can and should be destructive as they feel is necessary, under pressure, then you have a formula for ugliness, i.e., piton scars. The gift that keeps on giving.
How bout this one. If you're about to die and you have to do whatever to save your ass, then it's okay.
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wonderbread
climber
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I've heard that if one repeatedly sticks something in their mouth they will eventually begin to like the taste.
You enjoying the taste of foot yet, Lambone?
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Mimi,
You must be talking about Cosmic Trauma. It has gone clean once, I was climbing Spaceshot when they were on it.
Yes, I put one piton in after I tried everything else. I've talked to two other parties since the clean ascent and they had to use the same pin, in the same place. The rock changes!
Lambone, waz up bro? Sorry if I was harsh. I'm just sick of people always jumping to conclusions and bashing the Hubers.
Cheers!
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elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
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Tell Alex he still owes me $65 for sitting on Liz's sunglasses.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Lambone, those ropes were not the Huber's and they were not fixed all year there. Right before the Hubers got there, there was a huge team going up the Nose. Some Isreali guy was in a "modern dolt car", he was dying or something.
Anyway, I think most people thought that film crew was the same as the Hubers.
Cheers!
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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mimi,
i admit.
with regards to you i have only the clues of your postings here on supertaco land.
and i perceive someone who questions others use of a piton here and there,
or on WoS threads, vitriolic statements made without anything added.
or like above, questioning ammon about a piton in a clean section.
BFD.
if you want to post like that, dont be surprised when others get different impressions of you than what may be the real you.
have a good day.
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Mimi
climber
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How much is "a pin here and there" too many to a guy like you?
As I said to Ammon in an email exchange tonight, you're also probably a card-carrying conservationist in every other arena, why can't you be one in this one? I am one by the way.
Edit: Your contention is, is that the route doesn't go clean anymore. Because several other parties haven't been able to find the placement and you're supporting that idea. Where has that placement gone? Could it be that your placement on that ascent caused the change or are you blaming previous parties for your inability to solve this pro problem in the allotted time at your level of patience? This whole notion that the rock "changes" begs the question of what makes the rock change quickest. Duh?
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Sep 10, 2006 - 04:36am PT
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Mimi, I suggest you go climb Cosmic Trauma and find out for yourself that this section will indeed go clean.
I'm guessing your beef with me is that I was on a speed ascent and you think I nailed because that was the easiest/fastest solution. I assure you that I wouldn't place a piton if I thought I could use a clean placement, no matter how long it took me. I am not afraid to take the whipper and I'm not afraid to take the time and climb the rock under it's conditions.
On the Reticent I wasted over 30 minutes trying to get through a section that I thought I could beak. After three whippers (at the crux) I finally realized that I would have to put three heads in. I'm not a big fan of heads so I wasn't that psyched about doing it. BUT, that is what was needed to climb that section.
Maybe the Cosmic Truama guys will chime in on this one. Who knows. I'm not sure what piece of gear they used in that section. Maybe there was a fixed pin there when they did it.
Maybe they used a cam hook, which I'm pretty sure would work. BUT, I think cam hooks could be more damaging than placing a pin.
Mimi, have you ever placed a pin in sandstone. You can practically bang it in with your fist to make it stick enough to get your weight on it. I assure you I wasn't up there bashing the hell out of everything for the sake of time.
We should go climbing sometime and you can see for yourself what I'm all about.
Cheers, Ammon
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