Yosemite Practice Aid Circuit

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Strider

Big Wall climber

Bay Area, Ca

Jan 16, 2004 - 07:12pm PT

So, after reading all the threads about obscure routes and dreaming about what I would, if I could, do this upcoming summer, I wanted to see where the good places are to practice. So I dug up this thread to see if I could get updated. Hey Minerals, what are the odds that we could get you to add some grades? How about Clean or Hammered? I would hate to walk up to "Old A5" with a hammer and a grin only to find out that it is now a clean route. Does anyone know of some aid ratings for any of these climbs? Any more good routes out there? Anyone out there...?

-n

Mungeclimber

Social climber

N. California

Jan 16, 2004 - 11:43pm PT

Pink Pussycat A1- couple of blades, then many baby angles, to small gear. The bolt at the top used be a 1/4" in the early nineties. Replaced I think with a 5/16" soon thereafter. Might have a fixed nut in there as a back up for the rap from what I recall.

Great nailing. Though it might go clean with sufficient lowe balls. But that's gonna take a lotta balls. heh!

Minerals

Social climber

The Deli

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2004 - 02:25am PT

Ok, thanks guys. I edited the original post.

Never trust ratings - they are worthless.

can't say

Social climber

Pasadena CA

Jan 18, 2004 - 09:25am PT

I'm not sure if the old El Cap Tree route would be considered a practice aid route, but it was my first one. The tricky part is the rap you have to do off of the tree. There's a hanging stance you have to change over at and it you are not familiar with that you might get a bit wigged.

David

Trad climber

San Rafael, CA

Jan 18, 2004 - 10:22am PT

re."old" El Cap Tree route

Chris lists an ElCap Tree route in "Road to the Nose". Talking about the same one? First five of Iron Hawk?

Minerals

Social climber

The Deli

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2004 - 01:14pm PT

I don't think so.

From the complete big wall list that I'm updating:

El Cap Tree Direct, (IV 5.9 A4?), FA: Glen Denny and Frank Sacherer, Dec-61, Meyers, '87; Roper (green) '71, etc.

Atlantic Ocean Wall used part of this start but a good portion fell off in the late 80s and more fell off in '99. There used to be a boulder in the talus with a bolt on it. See ST for more details.

So, is the route still there? I don't know if it's still climbable - might need new bolts...??? ...and a bunch of duct tape to hold all of the loose blocks together... ;)

can't say

Social climber

Pasadena CA

Jan 19, 2004 - 12:37pm PT

I wasn't referring to the old A4 El Cap Tree route. That was called El Cap Tree Direct I believe. The one I am talking about starts over to the right more. Walk out to the end of a broken up ledge and start clipping up a A2 bolt ladder (P.1) The second pitch is 5.6 and basically goes out the ledge the Tree is on.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Jan 19, 2004 - 02:06pm PT

>Cascade Area:
>Sunblast - A2+ nailing (1 pitch)
It's probably obvious from looking at the topo in
any of the recent guides, but the first 110' was freed
awhile back, so that part at least should be done clean.

Minerals

Social climber

The Deli

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2004 - 03:13pm PT

Re: El Cap Tree Route

Ooooops!!!!! My mistake. I was thinking that you meant the direct route.

Anyone know the specifics on the FA of the regular El Cap Tree Route? FAist, grade, FA date, etc…

>Cascade Area:
>Sunblast - A2+ nailing (1 pitch)
It's probably obvious from looking at the topo in
any of the recent guides, but the first 110' was freed
awhile back, so that part at least should be done clean.

Uhhhhhhhhh……

Those free climbing bolts aren’t there anymore…
Has the first 110' ever been done clean?

Chicken Skinner

Trad climber

Yosemite

Jan 22, 2004 - 03:28pm PT

El Capitan Tree-Regular Route 5.6 A2 FA March 1952 by Al Steck, Will Siri, Bill Dunmire, and Bob Swift.

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Apr 15, 2004 - 09:57pm PT

Bear Rock was in the center of the path of the big "Good Book/Folly" Slide. The rocks went around both sides. Any route on the side facing the Folly is probably wasted. The route facing the road is probably fine. I don't know what the approach would be like now since there is big fresh loose talus all the way to the road. There is more rock that could come down too although only a major event would have any chance of making it to Bear Rock and even then, you would probably be saved by the rock unless you were on the approach.

There's better stuff without the baggage. When we were climbing Wild Thing before the slide, somebody was on the Folly left and they were sure knocking down a lot of rocks. Keep the question marks on that one too.

Peace

Karl

Trad climber

The LBC

Apr 20, 2004 - 02:08pm PT

There's a random 25-30' boulder in the forest below the nose that has a line of 4 or 5 hanger-less bolts going up a vertical face. I came across it a couple of weeks ago, completely by accident, walking up toward Pine Line. If I recall, it's a few hundred years ESE of the clearing on the main trail up to the nose. Anyone know more about this one (probably one of many around the valley, eh?)

br

Minerals

Social climber

The Deli

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2004 - 02:04am PT

Update:

The Stigma,
Cookie Cliff

This is a fun little practice route at the Cookie. The approach is about as easy as it gets (almost) and there is a nice flat spot (old road) with a boulder to sit on at the base. The two-pitch route was first done in 1970, using mostly pitons. Continued nailing over the years has carved the thin splitter such that a select few now free climb the route. In 1985, Alan Watts placed two bolts next to the crack to better protect the lead for the free climber. A new first-pitch belay was also added, about 20 feet below the original belay; the new belay consists of three 3/8” bolts that are fairly closely spaced. Today, Ron Kauk and others still free the first pitch (wicked thin 5.13) and last weekend, there was a TR fixed to the first belay (Kauk). Please respect the fact that the first pitch is climbed free; it is best to save your hammer for the second pitch.

The two lead-bolts on the first pitch are 5/16” thread-heads (?) with thin Cassin hangers on them. I don’t know what Kauk’s opinion is but something should be done with the bolts. I left them alone because I wasn’t sure what to do (no vroom vroom…). It seems like the pitch is usually done as a TR but if free climbers lead it often enough, then the bolts should be replaced. There are plenty of good placements next to the bolts (pin scars) for the practicing aid climber and there is bomber gear below to prevent a grounder. So, my question is, should the two retro lead bolts on the first pitch be replaced or removed???

The first pitch (to us aid climbers) is C2 (plus or minus…) and there are a couple of tricky moves to keep you thinking. The series of thin cracks split a vertical to barely overhanging smooth face; the belay is about 70 or 80 feet above the ground.

The second pitch continues up the splitter for about another 20 feet (offset nuts and pins) and then crosses a blank section of rock to the right. This was the location of the original first pitch belay. After talking with several people, I decided to preserve the retro belay and remove the upper belay to accommodate free climbers and lessen the number of bolts in the rock. The original belay has been removed (3 bolts removed; 1 replaced) and now three bolts (ladder style; 1 before the old belay, 1 at the belay, and 1 after) with hangers (in original holes) connect the top of the splitter to a right-leaning thin corner (#2 and #3 heads, A2). There was a bolt in the middle of the corner that I really wanted to chop but judging by the vintage of the hardware (thin SMC “death hanger”, same as original belay bolts), assumed it was original and thus, replaced it with a 1/4” buttonhead and a hanger. If this bolt was not original, the replacement should be removed. There was also a poorly chopped (long ago) 1/4" stud to the right of the bolt; it is now patched.

The thin corner ends at a sloping shelf to the right. According to the Reid guide, it’s 5.4 to the belay. There was a newer bolted belay at the end of the thin corner and just left of the sloping shelf (two 3/8” bolts with a mop of ugly webbing that could be seen from the road). There was also a third empty hole. Because this anchor was not original and is not necessary, it was removed and all three holes were patched (thanks for the quick-link and hangers!). Instead of climbing out right, I continued aid climbing up another right-leaning thin corner that I believe was not climbed before. 8 heads were placed (A2) and left fixed (they are bomber but over time they will weaken – be careful above the sloping shelf – you don’t want to whip!). Tension right at the top of the corner to a couple of free moves up a wide, right-facing corner to a newer two-bolt belay with quick-links and a small stance. This belay is above the 5.7/5.8 route to the right of The Stigma and just below the wild, overhanging 5.11b crack (The Enigma? – sorry, my books are in storage and I’m typing on the floor of my empty apartment.) From this anchor, one rap brings you back to the ground (170 feet?).

All heads that I placed were left fixed. Bomb Squad.

Recommended Rack:

2 sets HB Offset Brass Nuts
1/2 set Stoppers (thin to medium)
1 set Ball Nuts
2 sets Alien Hybrids
1 set Aliens to red
2 orange Aliens (or other 1 1/2" cam)
1 #1 Camalot (red)
2-3 Beaks
1 ea. 1/2” and 5/8” Angle
A few small to medium Arrows
A few Heads (if fixed ones are bad)
Cam Hooks

Have fun!!!

August West

Trad climber

Where the wind blows strange

Apr 30, 2004 - 03:42pm PT

My partner and I are trying to break into the big wall-in-a-day grade and I need to speed up my aid climbing. In particular, I'm looking for topropes to practice my speed cam hooking on cam hook friendly cracks (that is, easy A1 cracks as opposed to tricky/spooky placements). Any suggestions? (I think this topic may have been covered before, but I couldn't find it with a search.)

Mungeclimber

Social climber

N. California

Apr 30, 2004 - 03:52pm PT

Aid Route below Camp 4 wall. I'll have to look at, i think, the Roper guide (anyone have it handy?). Single pitch, but supposed to be worthy. Bolt ladder? Dunno?

[I guess this is near Rixon's Pinnacles actually. Bear Pinnacle? or something like that. 5.3 A1 is the old rating in the roper guide. -Munge]

Trad climber

Flagstaff, AZ

Sep 2, 2004 - 08:02pm PT

To add another climb to the list...

If no free climbers are in the Q, Church Bowl Tree can be a fun route to climb. Once at the two bolt anchor, there is an old bolt ladder that will take you up to the ledge with the actual tree. You can then rap from the tree and TR More Balls than Brains. You can also rig a hanging belay at the two bolts, then climb the bolt ladder as a second pitch. Makes for good practice.

When I was learning to aid climb, I used to go over and climb these routes early or late in the day so as to stay out of the free climber's way.

David

Trad climber

San Rafael, CA

Sep 2, 2004 - 08:37pm PT

This list is great but I don't have a clue as to where some of these routes are. Are most of these in the Reid book? For example, with nothing but a name, how does one go about finding the first pitch of Crystal Planet?

bigwalling

climber

Sep 2, 2004 - 08:42pm PT

Crystal Planet is over by Tempest. Or it might be just to the left of Everyman for Himself. It's somewhere in that area. Probably a bunch of nailing and heading knowing Minerals. Outer Negitive looks pretty cool and Bryan told me it's good and I should do it. This stuff is on the SE El Cap poster, so just check it out at the Mtn. Shop.