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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Jul 23, 2014 - 12:37pm PT
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When you climb Jammit, check out Munge Dihedral (5.10a) just a few climbs to the left, a better crack climb, first done by Tom Higgins and Pat Ament in the 60's.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 23, 2014 - 08:16pm PT
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There was some other shallow gash Couch did with Dent that was pretty sketchy on the old gear. Can't remember the name.
Ho man, my guess would be Miscalculation. Name sort of alludes to it, although with modern gear not so much so. Pretty good route.
What a relief, there for a minute I was thinking it might be the Source, another Couch/Dent route. I do my best to try and not remember having done that route. If you know the story behind the name, well, the name says it all. That one got eliminated by not being a shallow gash.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jul 23, 2014 - 09:51pm PT
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That's right, Henny - Miscalculation. Looks like 5.8, but was a little sketch with the old gear. Another dandy on the South Face that I bet NEVER gets done is Wild Gazongas.
JL
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 24, 2014 - 09:39am PT
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The mention of these semi-obscure Suicide routes made me dig out my records.
I first did Miscalculation with Tobin (Sorenson) in Oct. of 1974. I remember that he led it and that there was a fixed pin that was pretty important but not that great at the crux.
I came back with Spencer Lennard in April.1975 and did Jammit for our first time.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Jul 24, 2014 - 12:51pm PT
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You guys are (sincerely) awesome!!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2014 - 10:31pm PT
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Well, my partner Mark and I finally worked our way up to jammit today. Steep and full value both describe it pretty well. I figured it was old school 5.9; so that about sums it up :) . I'm having a hard time pulling photos off my phone now so I will try again in the a.m. I do actually have some.
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Mar'
Trad climber
Fanta Se
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Sep 15, 2014 - 08:48am PT
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I meant to do Jammit and got on Munnge Dihedral by mistake, sometime in the early 80s. When I did find it, I though it was a great line and solidly rated. Subsequently, it was the first route I guided professionally on Suicide (a hand-me-down from one of Bob Gaines' guides).
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 15, 2014 - 09:22am PT
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You guys are taking me back forty four years! Anyone know where Dent is?
Talk about old sckool ratings, did the Russian Arete in the Black Canyon yesterday....IV 5.9+. Love that climb!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2014 - 10:43am PT
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Ok, here are some shots from what started out as a go climb something on the North side os Suicide day. But guess what!?? Other folks had that idea too. So as we slowest of the bunch, we made a change in game plan and up the Descent Crack we went to go find Jammit.
After some searching, we finally found the descent gully. The book has you chimneying under a hugh chockstone, but that way looked like it had been filled in a bit and was really tight looking. So, on the left side of the gully (looking down) there is a rap station at the base of a small tree. Down we went.
It was a great day for us, albiet long given our late start. The crux is getting out of that alcove. It's pretty overhung, and there is a spot that's like a squeeze chimney in the middle of that lower crux just to make it awkward. Even though it looks like it backs off, it does not. The sucker is sustained all the way to the small roof. After this is a mossey area under another roof/alcove. By the look of the moss, NOBODY has been here at least this season. We put the first footprints in it.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
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"Mark loves hiking!!!!!" BWA HAHAHA ... now THAT'S funny!
Anyway, thanks to everyone who had input on this thread. I have a long list of things to hit over the next year or so, including me leading Jammit instead of following. I'm pretty much a noob at this and so far have really enjoyed every minute of it. This area has so much to offer. It looks like I've found a home for a while (at least until it snows). Thanks again.
Chris
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