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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jun 25, 2014 - 07:04pm PT
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Jack Tackle. . .
Jim Donini. . .
Ask these two--they walk the walk!
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Jun 25, 2014 - 08:05pm PT
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Gary Hemming's rescue of two stranded climbers on the Dru. I think Pierre Mazeaud was in on this as well or it might have been another rescue. Either way, Mazeaud upset the powers that be in Chamonix by going up when the Chamonards refused to climb. He claimed that when he was stuck on a new route on the Grand Jorasses for 13 days and his partner ultimately died it was payback from the Chamonards for showing them up.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Jun 25, 2014 - 08:50pm PT
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Joe Faint's partner was Pete Sproecker (sp?). I visited him the next day in the Lewis Memorial Hospital in YV. He was in good spirits but still in some pain. I don't think he ever climbed again. I'll go with the helicopter rescue from Sentinel's summit. It was the first major technical rescue in the Valley, I think. If I remember right, Jeff Foott was on that rescue; he's alive and well, living in and out of Jackson Hole.
I'm not sure, but I think Joe Faint has passed onward...
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 26, 2014 - 12:32am PT
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BooDawg
Definitely a chopper rescue. "I saw it with my own eyes" as they say. We must have been in C4 at the same time.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Jun 26, 2014 - 03:49am PT
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Howard Doyle, a now deceased but prolific climber from the East, while on a whitewater trip noticed a trapped and soon to drown person in the river. Story has it that he immediately jumped in to the river and saved his life. Later the guy became a US Senator or some lawmaker and a good friend of Howard.
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steve shea
climber
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Jun 26, 2014 - 07:03am PT
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I stand corrected. Of course, the Ogre.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Jun 26, 2014 - 09:54am PT
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Hero bump!
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colin rowe
Trad climber
scotland uk
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Jun 26, 2014 - 11:45am PT
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Anatoli Boukreev was awarded by the American Alpine Club The David A Sowles Memorial Award 1997. This Award recognised Boukreev's heroic efforts in repeatedly leaving the safety of his tent, risking his life to fight through a blizzard on Everest to rescue another group of climbers' stranded a few hundred yards from their tents. The following day he climbed back up to 8,400 metres, in a forlorn attempt to help his American friend Scott Fischer.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 26, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
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Peter Terbush. He kept his leader on belay with tons of rock headed his way.
Agree, Gary.
I don't know about the Faint/Spoeker ascent, but Mike Caldwell (Tommie's father) and I were climbing In Cold Blood on Sentinel in May of 1973, when Mike fell and hurt himself on the "rope throw" pitch. He was able to carry on to the top, including leading free a variation I couldn't follow near the summit. When we got down, he was in a lot of pain. X-rays back in Berkeley showed that he'd taken a chip off his hip. We were tempted to name our variation "Bust your Butt," but we thought it was too trivial a variation of a major route to deserve a name.
Also, Don Whillans was thwarted on the Eiger more than once because he had to help rescue rival teams.
John
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portent
Social climber
your mom's house
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Jun 26, 2014 - 01:00pm PT
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My Uncle Dave. OG Vulgarian.
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nevahpopsoff
Boulder climber
the woods
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Ron Kauk, Midnight Lightning, and I wish I could be as mellow as he seems.
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bootysatva
Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
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Anatoli Boukreeve for his actions on Everest the year Scott Fisher and Rob Hall died.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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