Northwest Buttress, Lembert Dome?
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Messages 21 - 21 of total 21 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Sep 5, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
Cool route! Old school which might go to the Largo thread about all around trad climbing ability (unprotected slab, strange crack stuff, route findind). Inadvertently played the part by forgetting my harness...(if you look closely at Jaywood's photo of the so called "mantle" you can see me wearing a swami belt of three turns of 1" webbing Jay dug out of his pack). The mantle isn't the move (not really a mantle). Committing to the lie back is...about 5.10 on a small nut placed by Jay with his 1' height advantage over my negative 5 ape index. The "fourth class" was an easy fifth class with no pro. Greg, what is the "Sand Bag" route (nice to see you and the family). At the belay ledge before the mantle, there is an old piton with a hole drilled in it with a bolt. It looks like the bolt for the 5.7 "variation" in the Reid/Falkenstein Guide. Jay did a great job route finding on first pitch and on the crack pitch below the tree. Cool in that you have to pick your way up the thing. Some 5.9 weirdness up there. great route to put different facets of trad together on one climb.
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