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WBraun
climber
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What if I try the climb, and fall because the bolts are broken, and you have to rescue me, Werner?
You won't fall, you're bad ass.
QUACK!!! ......
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gumbyclimber
climber
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I believe Jim most certainly does care what people think because he told me, at least a dozen times, that he climbs to compete and to be considered the best. He also told me that he places booby trap gear on/near his routes because somebody dying on one of them is his "number one goal".
This isn't slander, this is what he was telling everybody who would listen whether they were a climber or not. Sorry if it sounds like slander but I feel like it's my unfortunate responsibility to report that detail to anyone planning on going near his routes. If somebody was bragging about leaving nails on the freeway to cause crashes or something like that I would want to know.
Personal opinion: He is clearly highly motivated and knows how to pull off large, crazy, and complex dreams alone; that talent is worth some envy. I wasn't left with the impression, however, that either of us is missing out in not being friends.
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
Hankster's crew
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^^^ Yup.
Gotta admire his skills, motivation, and dedication, but sadly the ego and non conventional and sneaky tactics keep most of us away from his routes.
It's a pity because he's climbed some beautiful lines.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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He also told me that he places booby trap gear on/near his routes because somebody dying on one of them is his "number one goal".
liability is a harsh mistress. Jimbo might want to rephrase.
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fluffy
Trad climber
Colorado
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Heh a climber with an ego
What a novelty
Some pretty serious (unsolicited, unproven) allegations and slander being levelled here against a man who is not here to defend himself...classic supertopo!
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Best f*#king thread of the year, so far. Full of the real deal, all personal and sh#t. What WBW said. And Piton Ron too. And Werner and Pete. And don't forget Rivet. Jensen, stay out of it or else it becomes a whiner's fest.
I got front row seats on this!
Arne
And Gumby too; nice story. Death routes in the literal sense. Seriously, fun thread.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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I've enjoyed drinking a few beers with the man:
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Wow, and Aslaksen too! Nice!
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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I think some of you are forgetting that Beyer's techniques have likely evolved over the many years he has been at this game. To assume he is still doing the same thing as 30 years ago is pretty ignorant. He used to have rurps, now he probably has a full rack of beaks. He likely modifies his gear and has a whole new bag of tricks. Jim is obviously doing what he loves and has devoted himself to.
Do any of his modern Fisher routes call for lots of fat heads? I doubt it, I bet he is using beaks now.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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You're telling me these are hard men and I see a case of Bud Light?
OK, maybe it's breakfast.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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PBR
What gumbyclimber said has the ring of truth.
It also makes me sick!
Having had numerous people die repeating routes I put up has greatly troubled me, even though I tried to make all but a few reasonably safe, and have labelled those few as dangerous.
The thought of reveling in actually precipitating a tragedy by booby trapping a route is sociopathic.
I know that in climbing it is caveat emptor , but such behavior is criminal!
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Best f*#king thread of the year
I agree! I love the aid climber spray/slag/rant threads. Not sure why. Maybe because I don't have a dog in this fight.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Toker, you color blind? (look to the right of the PBR)
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Randisi, not jealous in the least.
I am, however, curious as to how many injured or dead you have had the opportunity to recover or transport.
Hoping to create more is sick!
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Ron, the legacy of preservation and your trail of great crafted routes will remain a long time after Jim, his attitudes and his memory is dust. That may neither be here nor there, I have nothing to say about Beyer.
Thanks man.
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Joshua Johnson
Boulder climber
Boulder
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Ron, the legacy of preservation and your trail of great crafted routes will remain a long time after Jim, his attitudes and his memory is dust.
Not.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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JJ you must be the most negative persons to show on ST in the past year.
Why don't you post a TR, or start an interesting thread?
I've known Jim Beyer for 39 years,... sort of.
In 1975 when he put up Sunshine (not '74 as I have seen reported) I spent a few hours at Chasm View telling him how far the top was. We didn't actually meet until the following year. I spent some time explaining my counter-weight solo haul system to him and he then used it on his Dihedral Wall solo.
We crossed paths again and again. There is no jealousy there since our philosophies are fundamentally divergent.
But,.. booby trapping a route so that somebody dies in order to feed your ego?
That is criminal!
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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So Ron, are you trying to save humanity from the dangers of aid climbing by making them "reasonably safe", or are you trying to impose a conservationist ethic. The one time I met you was at the base of Touchstone, and you all but threatened me if I dared to take a hammer on the route that you hammered on the first ascent. There are pin scars on Touchstone on sections that go free at 5.10.(I have never hammered on a clean route, and didn't need you acting all tough-guy and hypocritical on me.)
I don't doubt that you've spent some time on the sharp end on serious climbs. Putting up a new aid route in Zion, especially solo is serious business. Hell, I haven't done an aid route in several years, and generally have never cared for it (for its own sake) all that much.
You've got your style, and you seem to be making a lot of assumptions about Beyer's motivations in his style. If you care so much, maybe you should just ask him. It would be easy enough to send an email through Mountain Project.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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It seems more like Ron is arguing based upon tangible details presented in this thread by himself and others. Everyone defending Beyer seems to fall into the camp of arguing from emotion, assumption, and (anti)hero worship.
At least that's how it looks to me (as a member of "the rest of us")
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Whoever brought the bud lite lime should be slandered.
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