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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2014 - 05:59pm PT
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Awesome, Keith!
And ditto, donini!
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Yes! I will confess to leaving some 1970's relics/bolts behind in Idaho, however, all but one were at crag-climbing areas.
My thoughts on leaving gear on non-crag climbs, in Idaho, are explained in my post to Idaho's one climbing forum, where some people were complaining about their obscure rocks suddenly being full of bolts.
Specifically! The subject is Slick Rock near McCall, which suddenly had a number of well-bolted routes replacing gear routes that had never been "written-up" in a guidebook.
I first climbed the triple cracks in late Sept of 1972 with Harry Bowron, then during the next few years Harry and I did several other, more difficult, routes to the left of the Three Cracks. These routes were all done with protection only from nuts. Some of the leads were rather run-out by current standards. We did not find any signs of earlier ascents and we didn't leave any signs of our ascents.
The Idaho climbing ethic at the time was: leave no trace, so that the next climbers can have a new route adventure too.
Obviously, times have changed.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/105717/message/1403972642/Slick+Rock+history.
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feynman
Trad climber
chossberta
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Had a bit of a melancholy moment the other day: Put in (top down) some bolts on a loose roof route while cleaning about 30 bread to microwave rocks from various sections. When topping out I had an odd feeling of familiarity with some positions. A couple of days later, while on it my wife, I definitely recalled purposefully inspecting the 2nd pitch back in '94 and deciding to leave it as a bold route to do when I was strong enough to climb with the delicacy necessary for our loose semi-protectable gear terrain …
Is destroying your own empty line encountering your own relic?
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
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That's a pretty deep question, feynman...
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feynman
Trad climber
chossberta
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In our local guidebook, I'm increasingly leaning to including some info on why certain lines weren't climbed.
I suspect, like many, I'm guilty of only publicizing/celebrating what has been done rather than what purposefully been conserved. No wonder new climbers have a hard time gaining insight into FA expressional nuance...
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