Glowacz / Sharma route in Oman: Kind of a Big Roof

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Messages 21 - 37 of total 37 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 19, 2014 - 04:47pm PT
Like I said Coz, my mistake for saying lead, not aid.

No, it doesn't look like you could place anything at all on rappel there.

It's the aid part that seems obvious, no big deal, but Brandon asked.


Not the first time I ever stuck my foot in my mouth, and likely not the last, HA!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 19, 2014 - 04:50pm PT
Is red bull aid??
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Mar 19, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
I was just wondering if the whole thing went free, seeing as how they showed someone in aiders in the video that is all about free climbing except for that one shot as far as I can tell.

Right?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 19, 2014 - 05:50pm PT
Brandon- It looks like Stefan jugged that last pitch with the haul bag.I wouldn't be surprised if he jugged the whole thing and just belayed on send day just for time management sake.


I loved this quote from Stefan

It's cool to see that you are a human being, that you have to fight for some moves as well.
nopantsben

climber
Mar 19, 2014 - 06:20pm PT
i was in a cave about a mile from that. sweet place! amazing actually. we went on a 10km caving tour through the plateau, with swimming etc. pretty cool experience. Oman is a neat country. the rock in the cave i was in was horrible in the overhanging parts. that thing probably took a lot of cleaning. it's basically pebbles stuck together by sand you can scratch away with a soft tooth brush.
but holy mother of god the route does look amazing.

in oman there is great dolomites style mountains, river bed bouldering and pretty fanatastic sportclimbing, as well as some medium good but fun deep water soloing around muscat. definitely a country worth a visit if you look for a relaxed, mellow holiday with diverse climbing options and sight seeing. everyone is super friendly too and the food is cheap and excellent.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 19, 2014 - 06:20pm PT
Coz, I am aware of his talents, it's just with that last shot of him jugging with the haul bag, it makes sense. They had a ledge and a bunch of other stuff.

Kudos if they did manage to both redpoint all 13 pitches and deal with all the logistics in one push. That would be crazy!
BrentA

Gym climber
Roca Rojo
Mar 19, 2014 - 07:29pm PT
Sad to see so many of us apply closed minds to a project birthed with anything but.

That looks like a great adventure and wonderful proj for those guys to hang out on.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Mar 20, 2014 - 01:04am PT
i was in that cave in 2002 on an assignment for NG. It's absolutely gorgeous and otherworldly.

I must admit, however, that I never even considered it as a climbing objective. Although I did think that it'd make a feasible BASE jump -- it's a straight 160 meter free drop from a slit trench skylight at the absolute apex of the chamber. I checked with Leavitt when we got back and he said it would be doable.

(There are uncounted zillions of meters of unclimbed limestone in that part of Oman. And some pretty fine looking large formations. Not to mention endless bouldering on small limestone cliffs above the beaches. I did some of that on our way to our underground excursions.)
bpope

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Mar 20, 2014 - 01:15am PT
Sounds like Stefan was injured during the climb, which would explain the jugging.

Source: http://www.timesofoman.com/News/Article-31299.aspx
bpope

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Mar 20, 2014 - 01:19am PT
Greg - you're right about the BASE jumps. Video posted from a year ago: https://vimeo.com/59836672
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Mar 20, 2014 - 01:35am PT
Caving and climbing all rolled into one. My dream trip!

Those guys are unreal
overwatch

climber
Mar 20, 2014 - 02:03am PT
Thanks for the link. Looked pretty good for supposed choss.
Yes I am old and steeped enough to know who Mr. Glowacz is. Pretty cool he is still climbing that hard.
thesiger

climber
Mar 31, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
I must admit, however, that I never even considered it as a climbing objective. Although I did think that it'd make a feasible BASE jump -- it's a straight 160 meter free drop from a slit trench skylight at the absolute apex of the chamber.

The Majlis has been base-jumped on at least two occasions for commercial purposes, once by Red Bull then shortly after by Land Rover. One or both of those groups left rubbish there and pissed off locals, so the consequence was the cave's access being closed ... a major blow for climbers/ cavers in the region as the SRT trip in/ out was a great adventure. It is still closed to normal mortals. In light of that, it is frustrating to see the Red Bull logo again featuring in the cave. Money talks ...
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 31, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
Thesiger, great handle, and likely a name recognized by very few here.
Tip of the hat.
Gerg

Trad climber
Calgary
Mar 31, 2014 - 04:24pm PT
This is not a troll question honestly....
If you look at Stefan belaying, especially exactly at 3:00, he looks only attached with a daisy chain, with the lead rope too, but the daisy looks tighter.
I thought even attaching a daisy to an anchor these days is eyed with suspicion. People up here will give you the evil eye if you bring one of those to the crag.
Not a troll,
signed confused.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Apr 1, 2014 - 12:55am PT
Yeah Scott! I got to meet both Stephan and Wolfgang in Josh and they were both really great guys! I think this is super and what an exotic place!!
aspendougy

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Apr 1, 2014 - 06:15pm PT
160 metres is roughly 500 ft. If you figure it out mathematically, with all the curves and zig zags, it could easily add up to 13 pitches.

Doesn't look like there will be a whole lot of repeat ascents.
Messages 21 - 37 of total 37 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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