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pc
climber
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Jan 28, 2014 - 07:58pm PT
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+1 for DMT's "sprinkled throughout the grades..."
pc
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 28, 2014 - 08:04pm PT
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hidden arch for me was harder than any 5.12 i did in josh.
pos
the 5.9 on the other side is harder than illusion dweller. and ll is greasy choss.
we should quarry that whole rock.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
SLO
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Jan 28, 2014 - 08:17pm PT
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Ahab is pretty hard. Reeds direct is a hard 5.9.
Locally, P-crack is a very hard 5.8
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 28, 2014 - 08:18pm PT
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Good topic..... I have a saying when folks start talking sh*T about some slab or OW....
"There are two types of climbs, the ones YOU can do and the ones you can't"
Caliente (SP?? sorry) and Insomnia at Suiside come to mind.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jan 28, 2014 - 08:20pm PT
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I have the musical album "Last Days at the Filmore" with a long interview with Bill Graham in the end. The interviewer asks him about changing musical tastes, the next big markets, and he responds by talking about how every segment of the music industry is exploding, so many new people into music listening and so many genres exploding. Seems like the same thing with climbing. You can take an isolated look at how huge some part of the climbing world is, but that doesn't mean that other parts of it are dead. I'll bet there are at least as many people into slab climbing today as "back in the day." It's just that there are even more people out there trying to crank bolted steep stuff and hanging out in gyms.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2014 - 08:24pm PT
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North Face of North Twin.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 28, 2014 - 08:27pm PT
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klk - pos? Hahahaha. I'd go with the quarry proposal but it'd be a shame to loose Bikini Whale and Some Like It Hot. No sense throwing out the babies with the bathwater. (Edit: I think I may have misread, the klk quarry comment may have been directed at Houser Buttress not The Sentinel.)
Moondance is the Suicide (maybe even Idyllwild) classic at the grade, IMO.
How about The Edge at Tahquitz? (or the entire thing - Turbo Flange)
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 28, 2014 - 08:32pm PT
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How about The Token or Ribbon Candy.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 28, 2014 - 08:39pm PT
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Baby Apes for sure. Oh, wait...
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jan 28, 2014 - 08:45pm PT
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It is very hard to compare alpine limestone north walls with dry rock climbs. I have climbed 5.9 and some 5.10 in those situations and it is way more heady than on a crag, even a runout crag.
Did you ever consider North Twin when you were younger Jim?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2014 - 08:45pm PT
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Bruce Kay...that's the point. A climb like that goes way beyond the numbers. Even today, no small venture.
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MisterE
climber
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Jan 28, 2014 - 08:49pm PT
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R.O.T.C Crack (5.11c) at Midnight Rock Leavenworth, WA
Japanese Gardens (III 5.11d) Index, WA
Sunshine Dihedral (5.11c) at Smith Rock Oregon
Just a few that come to mind.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 28, 2014 - 09:03pm PT
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Typical donini….just focused on the grades ;)
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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Jan 28, 2014 - 09:10pm PT
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I think the era the routes were put up in also plays a role. 11a from the seventies is way different than an 11a from the last few years and in truth a lot of the routes we think of as classic are really kinda sandbagged too. Sustained routes are harder but also more classic than one move wonders. I would argue the Naked Edge and Jules Verne are classic 11's that still feel like test pieces as an onsight no matter what level you climb at because they supply such unique features and movement.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jan 28, 2014 - 09:18pm PT
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Can someone define "tespiece?"
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jan 28, 2014 - 09:24pm PT
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Jim beat me to it, but "5.9 A2" is just about the stoutest thing going. There's not blue balls conga line for North Twin, and that's not just the weight of history keeping strong teams from leaving the highway.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 28, 2014 - 09:24pm PT
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I asked a similar question awhile back for help with making a list of climbs to do to help me round out the repertoire. After some back & forth, ball cupping insinuations, and usual silly Canuck jokes, Perry was kind enough to offer up this great list of 5.11 testpieces (Squam version of course). I think it's pretty solid, only problem is he drew it up with the idea of doing them all in a day!
Chief's Recommends for 11 Classic One Pitch Squamish 11s
(This list is organized for climbing them all on the same day)
Smoke Bluffs "Warm Up"
1) Partners in Crime 11a
2) Crime of the Century 11c
Murrin "Technician's Circuit"
3) Perspective 11a
4) Hypertension 11a
5) Brunser Overhang 11a
6) Horrors of Ivan 11c
7) No Name Rd 11b
8) Burnin Down the Couch 11d
"Enduro Homage to the Big Stone"
9) Boogie til You Puke 11b
10) Astrologger 11b
"Cool Down by the Sea"
11) Clean Crack 11b
Recommended Bonus Pitches for total of 18 pitches
Penny Lane 5.9 Warm Up
Pleasant Pheasant 11a lead with Elastic Man 11c TR
Sentry Box Regular 12a lead and TR Lap with Direct 12a
Claim Jumper 12a TR after Perspective lead
Caboose 10b for final wind down.
Festivities at Psyche Ledge, Chief Parking Lot (or suitably discreet alternative)
Beers, Pipeloads,Tea or Whatever.
I think this is well within a lot of people's ability.
My only excuse would be sloth and indolence.
ToGnar variations:
Boogie Till You Puke via Apron and Buttress or Grand Via Chimneys
(Send someone around to meet you with the Harley Parts)
Malemute finish via Angels Crest with North Summit tag after Astrologger
U can read how this list was shaped here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1999526/Squamish-Legends-single-pitch-challenge
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Rudbud
Gym climber
Grover Beach, CA
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Jan 28, 2014 - 09:49pm PT
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It's either run-out, a pile of crap or a warmup. Nobody cares about the head game anymore, especially on a relative slab where you'll likely get hurt in the fall. It's yesterday's game. This generation just wants to crank.
I recently put up a nice little slab route on lead drilling from stances and hooks, its in the low 5.11 range. Its not that hard but it could be considered a slab test piece.
It got retro bolted within 5 hours of the first accent.
I tell you what, Noob's these days have zero respect and the head game is gone for sure.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 28, 2014 - 09:53pm PT
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This thread has been derailed into waxing nostalgic on the past.
The question in the OP could be rephrased as "What climbs do you think will kick the pansy asses of those sending 5.14 these days? I need an ego boost." The answer is "none" and "who cares".
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 28, 2014 - 09:59pm PT
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New Gen and Rebolting at Suicide. Hardly get led, scary, yadda...
Bat Crack - Crucifix - Field of Dreams at Tahquitz is "only" 11B - good luck on that one!
Of course, Astroman has shut down many a 5.13 climber, as well as the B-Y. Some obscure stuff done by hard men and women in the back canyons of Yosemite and Eldo are probably on the contendorship as well. People were cut from a different cloth and a lot of those schultz/coz type routes might be all "5.13 R / X" by todays standards.
The question in the OP could be rephrased as "What climbs do you think will kick the pansy asses of those sending 5.14 these days? I need an ego boost."
I don't see it that way at all. Things are different, that doesn't mean better or worse. People are stronger but less skilled, very capable at specific hard types of climbing but haven't put in the years of tutelage on scary bullshit that those routes employ. Its a celebration on the multi-faceted face of climbing, that a route could be so difficult yet the grade so modest. Fun stuff, and as a young dumb kid I don't have any ego hurt at all - it helps not to feed one ;D
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